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This might've been answered, but i suck at searching.
I realised recently that i've changed gears it seems harder to change into, especially 1 and reverse, I've never had this problem before while driving;
before it use to just slide into gears, now i have to apply extra force.
What i think might affect it so far is the manual transmission fluid, as its due for a change, as well as engine oil, could it be one of these two or otherwise?
change your transmission oil and it should help a bit.
also some cars are designed to prevent you from shifting into 1st at certain speeds. i know it is like that with my car.
if you want to get it into gear. give some gas while your clutch is released and then clutch in, shift into 1st.
Im talking about shifting to 1 and reverse when youre not moving.
So its the transmission oil? (As the mechanic said it was due for a change soon)
oh then thats the drive shaft. as it is still spinningQuote:
Originally Posted by xntrik
if you do the follow u can shift into 1st.
1/ put it into another gear, to stop the shaft from spinning and shift into 1st.
2/ hold down your clutch for around 2 seconds and the shaft will stop spinning and put into 1st.
i used to have this problem, changing oil didnt really help that much. but i got my clutch changed recently now its all good again
Are you saying i have to change my clutch to get rid of this nuisance?
never said that.
i only changed the fluid to see if it got rid of the problem but it didnt for me but it really didnt bother me as i knew i was changing my clutch.
Hm, i'll see after this weekend, getting the transmission fluid done.
what i want to know is how does this problem start?
Your clutch cylinder might be leaking. Cost me 160 to fix mine up at Honda.
Hey guys, it turns out that; all i needed to do was warm up the car properly. (I didnt bother warming it up cause it was just a drive down the road)
But I went for another drive just now, after warming it up, all the gears seems to be slotting in fine.
I was going to ask about that, but I thought it would be a stupid question.
I have the same occurance if I dont warm the oil up properly.
If it improves when your transmission is warmed up, then yes, change your transmission fluid.
Yeah its due for a change anyway.Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
The new Honda MTF 06 is pretty good.
Any specific place to buy em from?
I'm in Melb and bought it from Hondwreck. The dealers didn't have them in stock for another 2 weeks or so but they now have them. The bottles says "Honda MTF 06" and they are made in Australia. The old bottle said "Honda MTF Plus" and those were made in USA. Go for the 06, that's the good one. The fluid is also grey in colour instead of the old gold colour.Quote:
Originally Posted by xntrik
It's also good to bleed your clutch fluid a little.
What do you mean by bleed my clutch fluid :O
Same as bleeding your brakes, but you do it to your clutch slave cylinder.Quote:
Originally Posted by xntrik
and this is good for it because?
just to clarify,
when the car needs warming up of the transmission oil to slide into gears properly, thats when i should change transmission oil correct? (is it a normal symptom?)
Sounds like it could be worn syncros to me. You could always try new transmission oil to bandaid the problem for a while. Not sure if reverse has syncros tho.
Xntrik: this is a common problem in DC2, even i have this problem, 1st and reverse are a bitch.
My 1st gear hardly slot in properly, if im at the lights at the front of everyone, i leave my car on 1st gear and jet off when its green, i never leave it on nuetral in this position.
Bleeding the clutch means getting the air out of the system. You do this for brakes, transmission and power steering. When replacing new fluid you must bleed in the clutch/brakes/power steering, cause they won't work properly where the is air bubbles are.
Anyways replacing new transmission fluid wont eliminate it, you just gotta learn the tricks to avoid it...
Read this:
http://www.austeg.com/showthread.php?t=111
Hope i help you out there :thumbsup:
He said it happens only when the transmission fluid is still cold though. I think his fluid would be full of fine brass particles by now, making it too viscous when cold but alright when warmed up.
For the 3 yrs i had my DC2, it still has this problem. I replaced the master clutch cylinder earlier this year too. Still same old problem, 1st gear wont go in properly. I have to release the clutch alittle, add abit of gas, then 1st will go in.
Well like i said,
It slotted in fine when the car was warmed up
and this problem only occured recently possibly due to my transmission oil ageing day by day.
I was told by the mechanic upon inspection when I first got the car to change the transmission fluid. I just never had the chance to.
So Hopefully it isnt a reoccuring problem like yours DUST
You are experiencing a tooth on tooth situation in 1st and reverse. For that, just slot it into 2nd or 4th gear and then go back into 1st. It'll go in no problems. :) It happens to the Euros as well once in a while.Quote:
Originally Posted by DUST
Will this problem be solved by replacing the clutch? i.e. upgrade to HD?
Nope, it's not the clutch's fault.
Replacing the gearbox? Although I can imagine how costly that would be!
If you find that you can't get it into 1st or reverse, just put it into 2nd or 4th and then try again and get back into 1st. :) That's all you need.
Kinda annoying though isn't it?
Say you're at the traffic lights and come green, you take several seconds to go into gear! *beep beep beep*
It sure has happened to me more than once.
Right now I seem to have to apply a lot of force going into third...syncro problem I assume.
When shifting from 2nd to 3rd while moving? If an MTF change doesn't help, then yeah, the synchro on that gear is wearing out.
use some quality gearbox oil.. bleed the clutch line again...see if that helps
Aw, I was ment to get the fluids changed today, but I woke up late and my mechanic got booked ):
He said tomorrow should be good @ 12PM.
Should I do a DIY?
Unless you know how to, probably better to leave it to them to bleed it.
As in, I'll make a DIY with my mechanic while he's changing it for me (:
Besides I think its a good idea so i can go back to it for reference
Oh and btw,
A mechanic store I went by today to buy genuine honda engine oil / MTF
The guy said he didnt have any, but he reccomended Mobile Synthetic 1 engine oil? He said its better than the Genuine Honda Engine Oil
is this true?
cause its like $80 for the mobilesynthetic-1 and from what i heard the genuine honda one is heaps cheaper.
keep in mind that im flushing the oil out then replacing it with new one, and not mixing.
It may contain better properties, but Honda engine oil is designed to be applicated to Honda vehicles. Just your preference.
id say the Mobil stuff is better from my experience. But Honda oil is recommended and if you clock up your k's like i do, Mobil will send you broke.
if you've got the money go for the Mobil imo.
honda oil is about 25 buks for 5 litres from memory.
Anyone else to confirm this?
Okay got my transmission fluid changed today
the MTF only came in 1 litre bottles which is ****ed, cause I needed 3
they costed about 14.50$ each.
The gears slot in perfectly fine now.
3 litres of MTF? I don't remember needing that much myself. lol
Well it fitted 3 with just a bit of spillage.
Was that the silver Mobil1 5w-50 or the gold Mobil1 10w-30?Quote:
Originally Posted by xntrik
You kept the car level by putting both the front and rear on jackstands?Quote:
Originally Posted by xntrik
hmm i think mine was the gold one. it was 80 from autobarnQuote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
The gold 10w-30 is the right one. The silver 5w-50 is too thick and is more suitable for the holden V8s instead.
Its the gold one, the autobanh guy reccomendedQuote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
Yeah Im pretty sure thats what they did.Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
By spillage I ment, we pumped it too fast lol