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trying to track down anyone thats bought some bendix pads for an itr recently, checked on bendix.com.au and they don't seem to list the itr at all.
would the pads be the same as a prelude vti-r?
i've been advised that its either DB1206 or DB1286 but just want some conformation before i go and order them
thanks guys!
DB1206 for the front
and for the rear DB1265
thanks eg30 :thumbsup:
found a few threads with the same answer but they were 'i think it was' and 'it should be'
keywords for search; bendix brake pads part number 99-01 integra type-r itr DB1206 DB1265
knowing the Bendix pads catalog ( and others like RDA simply copies theirs ) often gets the listing wrong more often than right...
I always take the old pads out and trace an outline as a template to check when I pick up the new pads from my fren's brake shop.
pic of the set of ultimate pads i bought last week:
http://img75.imageshack.us/img75/8715/img4799ke3.th.jpg
and all I can say it's that the 1206 would fit our 99 dc2r.
best way is to remove old pad. trace it onto piece of paper, then bring it to the shop.. saves time and hassles..
good advice EG30
DB1286 for Ek civics 98 to 2000. I beleive they were for some dc2 as well but not ITR
EG30 - how much did the ultimate pads set u back?. assuming they're for the dc2r... i got quoted around 150
and how do these pads compare to oem dc2r pads
yep would like to know also cos i was gonna get some.
Where you buying ti from also?
cost me just under $140 for the ultimate, which is pretty expensive for a bendix pad. They are often on special say few times a year and would be about $100 or so when they are on special.
would have gone for the Lucas/TRW pad instead for about $80 if I knew the ultimate would cost me $140.
don't forget the dc2r brakes are huge for the weight of the car, and the pads are bigger than many new commodores so it takes a lot of effort even on the track to get them over 450-500C.
if Bendix Ultimate and OEM pads were the same price. which would u go for?
and how's the brake dust and noise from the bendix pads when braking?
well it appears that db1206 is shared by a few manufacturers, ended up with some ferodo formula ts2000's for mates rates, waiting for my other brake gear now so i can bolt it all up and see how it performs :)
apparently bendix ultimates are pretty agressive pads, likes to bike into rotors and throws out quite a bite of dust from what i've heard
any opinions from people who have actually used them?
they all dust and bite hard onto the rotors thus causing rotor wear. Some more than others though. But I see rotors as consumables and doesn't bother me if I need to change my rotors every 2 pads change, esp RDA rotors are so cheap these days ie I only paid $40 more for the PAIR of RDA slotted rotors than the set of Ultimate pads.
If you had late model BMW eg E46 3 series onwards, even with geniune rotors and pads you change rotors EVERYTIME to change pads as when the pads are done the rotors will be near its minmum allowable thickness. Why? It's that they specify the rotors to be nice and soft and the pads fairly agressive for max performance, feel and very importantly no noise/squeal from the brakes.
So back to the pads....Ultimate from my past experiences with them in HSV Comodes ( 1700-1800kg car ) without big brakes option, they work really well, very agreesive initial bite, plenty of metal and carbon dust and some noises during bedding in. Not sure how they'll go in the dc2r as the car is much lighter. Won't surprise me if ABS comes on often even in the dry esp with the shitty Yoko S drive I've got on the car which doesn't grip that well.
I opted for the ultimate as I thought I give them a go on a honda, after fitting a few sets of Lucas TRW pads that I've been very very satisfied with them. The lucas dust ALOT, mostly black carbon w/out much metallic dust to kill your wheels coating and very quiet, rotors surface always consisently fresh and shiny and rotors would survive 2-3 sets of pads. And they are cheap.
Will fit the ultimate on my dc2r this weekend along with the slotted rotors and Lucas rear pads. Will let you guys know once bedded in say after 400-500km and I give them a hiding.
where do you get lucas pads? i've never heard of them. Currently running the OEM nissin ITR pads, haven't been bad either
Lucas-TRW-Girling is a huge automotive group in Europe. Made in EU wherever the overheads are low hence the price is cheap. Formulation is european OE pads similar to textar pad material found in bmw, mercs etc with semi metallic material with plenty of carbon as "lubricant" thus plenty of dust and some wear on the rotors. Good pedal feel and works from ambient to 550-600C ( but that's their operational range, and expect big dropoff of co-eff of friction from 400C onwards ).
I buy my Lucas pads around $60 a set from my fren's brake shop in Perth, don't think they sell Lucas at Supercheap, Repco,Conventries, Autobarn etc. But you should find them at any specialised brakes supply shop in your city. I've seen them for sale by a forum member in the parts for sale section ( he wanted $100 a set, used btw ) so they can't be too hard to source.
Just fitted the RDA front slotted rotors and Bendix Ult pads...
the pad material is pretty agressive with plenty of copper particles, and having driving around the block and did a few 60-20km/h gentle stops the initial bite is already very good so I expect them to be savage in a few hundred km's or even less.
http://img150.imageshack.us/img150/1...4802yz0.th.jpghttp://img259.imageshack.us/img259/7...4804ln7.th.jpg
bedded in my brakes last night on some back roads by giving them a hard time from certain speed down to 20km/h repeatedly without cooling down to get them really hot to release the binding resin gas and go past the initial and final green fade phase of the pads. Got them the rotors up to 450C at one stage and they were well and truely smokin and smelling.
Drove home sedately and let them cool overnight and the grip from the pads from cold was simply savage, with abs coming on even with moderate line pressure from 40km/h downwards if you start working the brakes from 80km/h. The rotors surface was nice and clean with an even layer of friction deposit on them and a blue tinge on the hat area not unlike the blue tinge line on titanium muffler tips.
will try a lower friction pad on either this car or another Honda. The ulitmate pad is a FF compound in trade speak and the lower friction variety EE is lot less common ( ie none from ferodo and bendix apart from the defunct metal king ) but won't lock up as easily which is important for low speed competition work ie autokana where you need to come to a complete stop in the garage or before a finish line.
any tricks of the trade to share about bedding in brakes EG30?
will be putting my setup together soon(brembo 282mm slotted/drilled rotors, itr calipers, itr booster/mc, braided brake lines and ferodo ts2000 pads) and want to bed them in properly first time
great setup you'll have there, and definately a good direction to head towards. But I would save $$$ by getting the cheap RDA slotted rotors instead of the Brembos and drilled rotors reduces frictional area and prone to stress fracture unless you stay below 300-350C at all times. btw the finishing of the RDA rotors ie runout are within 0.16 micron whereas the brembos are around 0.30 microns; so despite the bunky image of the RDA rotors there is nothing wrong with them apart from the lack of bragging rights; I use 320mm RDA rotors in my AMG Merc with EBC red and this combo works better and quieter than the factory OE setup!Quote:
Originally Posted by vinnY
and I would choose a diff pad as well, if you are after high friction Ferodo then go for the DS2500 for $250 or so for serious track work or go for the Lucas for fast street for $80. The TS2000 is neither here nor there. If you fear the brakes working too well esp on street tyres and lock up then consider the low friction option ie EBC red, EBC black ( only good up to 380C mind you ) or any EE compound custom made pads from a brake supplier.
For track work with hard braking on a track hard on brakes and if you do more than 3 laps at a time you might also want to consider installing 3" air duct/hoses to feed air to cool the brakes by aiming them at the caliper and remove the backing plate. No need anything fancy just rig something up with wire ties and source the incoming air on the bumper opening.
last time i got some 262mm slotted rda rotors it cost me about $99/side so a little more on top to get brembo items isn't much more to pay :) besides i already have them ;)
i got the ts2000 pads cheap(less than half your quoted price of the ds2500!) enough to use as a temporary pad while i find what i want so no issues there if i decide i want to try another pair of pads at the front
will definately look into other pads if i'm not happy with the ts2000's, we'll just have to wait and see for now
not tracking any time soon but will keep that in mind for when i do take it to the track, very much doubt i'll go more than 3 laps at a time though ;)
now back to the original question, any tips on your method of bedding in the brakes? :p
will post a DIY about bedding in brakes with pics at some stage, that way everyone benefits from the info instead of buried in this thread and into obscurity in a few weeks.