Advice On A K20 Circuit Setup

As some people here know I'm in the process of rebuolding my car for improved production racing in 08-09. I've been exploring options for the engine and have decided on the following setup and would like advice on if there's anything else I need.

PARTS ALREADY FITTED
ARC 36mm Radiator
Mugen Thermostat
Mugen Thermoswitch
Trust Oil Cooler
Spoon Engine Torque Damper

PARTS BEING REPLACED - New Parts Being Fitted In Italics
Fujitsubo Power Getter - J's Racing FX70RR Titanium Exhaust
TODA Headers - J's Racing 4-2-1 Headers
Injen CAI - J's Racing Carbon Intake

PARTS PLANNED TO FIT
Hondata ECU
TODA Spec C Camshafts
TODA HD Valve Springs
TODA Titanium Valves
TODA HC Forged Pistons
TODA Independent Throttle Bodies
Mugen Engine Mounts
Spoon Final Drive
Buddy Club Short Shifter
TODA Lightweight Flywheel and HD Clutch

Are there any additional items that will need to be added for the build and what gains are to be expected from such a setup? Is 160fw kW to much to expect?

Which Mugen engine mounts are you opting for? Have you looked at something a lot harder like the innovative race mounts?

Also, why is your setup TODA biased? Have you explored the other options out there like IPS, Buddyclub, Skunk2, etc?

Mainly because of ease of getting them. I'm open to other ideas. LikeI said, this is a general blueprint but I'm open to other ideas if they are beneficial.

how do u find toda C cams in a 2lt??wat is your vtec point,wats suspension and camber u running 4 the track?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jdmTYPE R

how do u find toda C cams in a 2lt??wat is your vtec point,wats suspension and camber u running 4 the track?

---

They're not in yet. They are what I plan to put in. Car currently has Tein Flex but will be replacing with BC Race Spec. Current setup is -1.5 front and no adjustment rear as yet. Just whatever the coilovers have brought it to.

have u tryed looking at skunk2 and buddyclub for your engine parts???and easy to get you hands on them.skunk parts u can get them within aweek.buddyclub normally has them in stock.

No ECU ?

I would prefer innovative mounts over mugen.

As i have been in cars before with both and find the innovative more stiffer.

^^ which ecu are you planning to run. Also most importantly who is going to tune it?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Chi

No ECU ?
I would prefer innovative mounts over mugen.

---

He's got a Hondata ECU stealthly listed up there and I'm assuming is a kpro. K100 is crap. :)

Maybe take a look over at the all motor section of ClubRSX or K20A.org and go through the different products that they have there - you might find something that you like better other than Toda. Theres a plethora of support and aftermarket parts for the K-series. I'm sure JDMYard would be able to help you source some of these parts quite easily.

Oh, whilst you've got the gearbox open as well, consider an aftermarket diff - ie. 1.5way.

Realistically speaking, lap times will improve a lot more with suspension work - are you doing your engine work before the suspension?

You can’t go wrong with Toda, stick to one manufacture like you have and don’t mix and match. I say bugger looking anywhere else create a plan like you have and stick to it, also I wouldn’t go over seas for support and parts like mugsee suggested stay with local companies who have local support. Support in achieving your goals is one of the most important things to consider.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mugsee

He's got a Hondata ECU stealthly listed up there and I'm assuming is a kpro. K100 is crap. :)

---

haha i totlaly missed it.


I was blinded by all of the TODA words lol

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Chi

haha i totlaly missed it.


I was blinded by all of the TODA words lol

---

Kinda like wacky waving flailing arm flailing inflatable tube man.

Yeah guys. It'll be a KPro ECU. With a build like this too, the desire for getting parts overseas is to save money. It's a very VERY expensive project and I need to save wherever possible. I've done some comparisons and have found I can save up to $600 using Nengun for example over local suppliers for a $3000RRP item. If I can get similar prices from local suppliers of course I'll purchase here. Total estimated budget just to get the car to the track is close to $30k. Then there's maintainence and running costs on top of that.

Skunk2 and BC make very good cams and valve trains. Do more research you'll be astonish at what other products can do. There is nothing worng with mixing other brand names in the head.

Not trying to be anti-toda, but ill be doing more research into the headwork.

Who is gonig to port your head?

mugen mounts wont be able to handle all that tq and bite of the clutch.

unless u put inserts into you mugen mounts

Thanks guys, it seems universally agreed that Innovative inserts are the go. Anyone know a good place to get them?

try jdmyard he had some on forsale

Get them directly in the states. Save abit of cash

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by m0nty ITR

Thanks guys, it seems universally agreed that Innovative inserts are the go. Anyone know a good place to get them?

---

We have energy suspension insert mount in stock for dc5r.
They are pretty good but some people preferred mugen mounts or innovative mounts replacement.

Is this what I need?

http://www.innovativemounts.com/Show...?prodid=B90150

You need the billet replacement mounts for a dc5r. That kit is for k20a swaps in EG's. You can get them in 60a and 85a shore. We have 85a shore in our street drivne EG.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Benson

You need the billet replacement mounts for a dc5r. That kit is for k20a swaps in EG's. You can get them in 60a and 85a shore. We have 85a shore in our street drivne EG.

---

I couldn't see on the site any listing for just the billet mounts. I'll email them but I wanted to make sure they're the right inserts. As far as I can gather the best inserts for my application are the 85A grey race apps.

Hey monty:wave:
Good to see your still hard at it, rebuilding your ride.

Interesting to see when you get J’s racing carbon intake.
I think I did see that J’s also sell it in an Plastic form as well?
Just a price Difference:p

Good luck on your project:thumbsup:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by m0nty ITR

I couldn't see on the site any listing for just the billet mounts. I'll email them but I wanted to make sure they're the right inserts. As far as I can gather the best inserts for my application are the 85A grey race apps.

---

Get the billet mounts direct from innovative if you are going this route. They released a batch of ill fitting mounts to their distributors that are still on the market. I think that they have fixed it but some are still floating around. Innovative will issue you the revised version.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by xframe88

You can’t go wrong with Toda, stick to one manufacture like you have and don’t mix and match. I say bugger looking anywhere else create a plan like you have and stick to it, also I wouldn’t go over seas for support and parts like mugsee suggested stay with local companies who have local support. Support in achieving your goals is one of the most important things to consider.

---

I wouldn't listen to any of the advice quoted, period.

Like what fatboyz39 said, I'm not against Toda parts but think that theres plenty of options out there that you maybe haven't considered that might be more suited to your application.

Just to throw something else into the mix, innovative mounts aren't the only solution; I think wuism is running alex sports motor mounts which are similar to the innovatives. He's done a small review on CITR so maybe take a look at his feedback.

For parts sourcing, try JDMYard.

there are other brand of mounts as well.

spoon make dc5 mounts, but it's not the catalogue. Has anyone seen these?

tracy sport and alex motorsport are the other 2 i know of.

Pm me if your looknig for innovative billet mounts.

Whats the final drive for spoon?

As for Clutch i would go one step better and get ORC single plate kit. Comes complete with clutch and lighten flywheel. Not a fan of mixing clutch and flywheel combo together.

Short shifter? hmmm look into the race cars. Longer gear stick...... Short shifters are good but will wear gearbox internals very fast i.e syncros.

Why not upgrade to stronger rods whiule your at it? look into headstuds, APR rod bolts for reliability.

Toda throttle body? geezz research on the market for other brand throttle body. Alot out there for relatively cheaper and serve the same purpose.

I'd be interested to know how much that Toda bottom end would cost you.

I could sell you various bottom end packages for a range of prices but in the end its not about outright power. A circuit engine is different to a drag engine. You need to think of reliability and design your enine with that in mind. Also, how easy will it be to source the parts you need if you have a problem? Look at what other CIRCUIT guys are running and use their setups as a basis. I thin Pro Concept here in Sydney have a couple of K20 circuit cars. It might be an idea to speak to them. Also, who is going to build the engine and tune it? I'd be speaking to them as well before you do anything.

You are taking the completely wrong path.

Blueprint your engine before you do ANYTHING (although this requires to purchase some parts), I could put together a motor with stock internals, cams and some porting/polishing that's been blueprinted down to exact spec and might make more power than when you go and buy every single engine part known to man for this motor.

Go speak to current racers in the U2LIP racing class, ask them what they feel is needed on their cars. Power isn't always the key. Sure it helps, but your money spent on lightening the car/modifying the suspension setup might be needed.

As people say here, do your research and see what modifications give you best bang for buck. KEEP IN MIND, these are done on certain spec engines, once you add other modifications you can ultimately wreck the whole config.

If I were you, I'd go custom and design my own components, ie, Cam spec, longer rod, shorter piston (rev more due to longer rod), stronger block, etc.

You want reliability. You might go all out, cut some corners and the motor last 3 races.

hows that chassis holding up? from memory, your car was a repairable write off and you wanted to buy another DC5 shell to transfer your parts across.. theres your chance to spot weld the car once you've found yourself a shell :thumbsup:

you also have pm

^^ his car was a repairable writeoff due to the recaros being stolen?? nothing mentioned about his chasis.

Hey Monty as mentioned before sourcing parts directly from the states yourself will save you heaps of money. Also for parts you know other ppl might want organise group buys so the overall cost for your own unit is cheaper as well.

As fatboyz mentioned there are many other brands which do the same thing, same quality but for a cheaper price. Try looking on www.honda-tech.com or clubrsx.com traders sections if you havnt already done so.

[quote=steve88;1478885]
If I were you, I'd go custom and design my own components, ie, Cam spec, longer rod, shorter piston (rev more due to longer rod), stronger block, etc.
quote]


Custom = $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

don't think he'll go that far.

everyone thinks custom is expensive.

it's not.

Upgrade LSD

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by .::F[L]Y::.

^^ his car was a repairable writeoff due to the recaros being stolen?? nothing mentioned about his chasis.

Hey Monty as mentioned before sourcing parts directly from the states yourself will save you heaps of money. Also for parts you know other ppl might want organise group buys so the overall cost for your own unit is cheaper as well.

As fatboyz mentioned there are many other brands which do the same thing, same quality but for a cheaper price. Try looking on www.honda-tech.com or clubrsx.com traders sections if you havnt already done so.

---

yeh.. thats what he sed.. but then he posted a wtb dc5 shell.. to transfer all his parts over. it was only a suggestion