Just wondering what spark plugs youg guys would recommend on a turbo setup?
i was gonna run plantium plugs (just the normal ones) on my b16 but i was told it might be good to get colder plugs. Anyone with any experience with these?
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Just wondering what spark plugs youg guys would recommend on a turbo setup?
i was gonna run plantium plugs (just the normal ones) on my b16 but i was told it might be good to get colder plugs. Anyone with any experience with these?
to tell you the truth, not quite sure if all bseries use the same plugs,
but i'm using colder plugs on my b18c2, bkr7e is the ngk number.
runs perfect, but i have never run it on anything different before.
lol.
ive been running normal plugs on my b16 for ages and everything is running sweet.
just run normal plugs and change dem every service :D
that seems to be workign for me
If you got $$$ i would drop in some GReddy racing plugs in, probably run a 6 heat range iso.
I have these in my N/A setups and haven't had a problem over 40is thousand k's with either car!!
These are essentially an NGK irridium, but with a titanium coating on them.
I have flooded mine once in the civic and ran them rich the whole rest of the time and they stood the test, so thumbsup from me!!
(autobarn stock them or can get them in from head office or somewhere)
Std B16A plug is PFR6G-11
1 heat range colder is PFR7G-11 (Std plug for B18C-R)
If stuck, use PFR7B
These will also work fine.
(NGK part numbers shown)
thanks mate, i can't rem exactly which plugs i brought now.
P.S Adrian - the way the turbo is going its prob gonna be next sat before i can get my car tuned. When are you back again?
dont 4get to gap them.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sssturbo
What do you mean are't they pre-gapped?
What does it mean ' to gap them ' ?Quote:
Originally Posted by sssturbo
gaping is the space between the tip and the end.
You use to have to gap all plugs but i always thought that nowadays they all came pregapped?
yeah i think i've brought standard platinium so i'll run with them until next change.
Use NGK BKR7E's
They are also cheap. :thumbsup:
Change them every service. :thumbsup:
NGK Coppers 1 or 2 heat ranges colder gapped to your liking. Very cheap - if something screws up your tune, or you spill oil on them, whatever - cost nothing to replace. Buy 5 sets and keep them in your toolbox in the boot.
exactly what i'm using and i change em every 3000kmsQuote:
Originally Posted by DLO01
lol
heres some NGK iridiums in 7 Heat range:
http://www.gccorp.com.au/automotive/...roducts_id=172
for anyone needing lower gaps and lower temps for HIGH BOOST.. try the iriways, can get em in 7,8,9 heat range:
http://www.gccorp.com.au/automotive/...roducts_id=175
^^^can't get those anywhere else in Australia :)
thanks i'll see how we go later
> Use NGK BKR7E
x3.
David Vizard suggests aftermarket multi-spark ignitions (MSD) not for their supposed higher spark outputs, but for the ability to use even colder plugs (NGK 8's or 9's), whereby the multiple sparks at low revs help prevent plug fouling.
Only useful if you're detonation limited, although this is well out of my league.
> on a turbo setup
How much boost you gonna run?
Nick.
yeah had an external coil but was too lazy to run it.
Its not much the stock coil will handle it but just checking if i should run colder plugs.
how often would u change em? 20000km? 40000?Quote:
Originally Posted by destrukshn
3000km is nxt to nothing
that's cos he uses copper plugs, supose to be good for about 20k. Platinum are supose to last 80k, but i change them every 40k to be safe
Whats standard plug on a D16Y4 ?
And should i also use NGK BKR7E's for my turbo D?
Adria from TODA recommended PRF7G-11 but re-gaped to 7 for my boosted D16Y1Quote:
Originally Posted by 1996ek1
alright i found the box these are what i got.
BKR6EGP
It didn't say anything about gapping but i told them what car i had and those were the ones i got.
Anyone know if these are any good? I did a google and its says its a G power Platinium plug.
Also change my leads to vision iridium ones
ok after some searching on google i found out these are the next one up from standard. They are super class and are 1.1 OE gapped.
Stupid site was in Inches so i had to work it out
For your ref if anyone is interested
http://www.ngk.com/results_app.asp?aaia=1169490
http://www.ngk.com/results_appNonUS....lMotiveID=1103
If i got BKR7E would i have to gap them ?
I just don't properly understand the gapping thing..
The gap size relates to how hot or cold they spark depending on you application..Quote:
Originally Posted by 1996ek1
Ohhh i knew the gap size (where the spark part was) related to how hot or cold they are but i thought gapping was to do with adjusting something else.
I would have thought they were pregapped...
They are. BKR7E-11 for example is pre-gapped to 1.1mm. This does not mean that your engine requires a 1.1mm plug gap - but it may.
I don't know where this 'hot' and 'cold' business fits in. Sounds like complications for an otherwise simple device.
Big gap, big spark, big burn - with the risk of blowout. Boost? Gap smaller.
Get a colder heat range when you're making more torque per bang to avoid the spark plug being a hot spot for pre-ignition.
gap is dependent on how easily the spark plug ignites.
The closer the gap the easier to spark, but can lead to premature ignition.
Usually with high performance applications they use a wider gap to insure there is nor premature detonation. They also run an external coil to give a bigger spark to make up for the distance the spark needs to travel
But gaping changes heat range dose it not?Quote:
Originally Posted by claymore
No, gapping changes the gap size. Buying a different heat range plug changes the heat range. The two are completely independant ideas.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lukezen27
Oh ICQuote:
Originally Posted by string
Thanks for the info
i think i know where your getting at luke. When there is higher heat it is easier to spark. At Colder temps it is harder to spark.
So in a way i guess the gapping does need to be adjusted depending on the setup also, but it depends on what your gonna use as a constant
Err i kind of thought the same as Luke, where the gap has something to do with the heatrange.. :rolleyes:
Usually you run the largest gap possible on a turbo set up,
Normally it ends up between 0.8~0.9mm with a decent ignition system.
If the spark is weak, the gap may need to be an small as 0.6mm to ignite without missfire.
It's something you figure out on the dyno whilst tuning & just note it down so next time the owner changes plugs there are no missfire issues.
For Normally Aspirated, 1.0~1.1 is fine. (Same as stock)
It would have to in some way lolQuote:
Originally Posted by 1996ek1
Was joking dude!!Quote:
Originally Posted by claymore
I understand :p
But as for this whole ""READ AND LEARN SOMETHING BEFORE COMMENTING"" thing
Forum = Talk = Learn
It's not the electrode that gets hot.. it's the ceramic at the base of the electrode... the size of this ceramic is based on said metal thickness Clayemore mentioned a few posts up.
the reason high CR or boost cars have colder temp plugs is coz this ceramic part glows red hot when too hot.. this will obviously cause pre-ignition combustion before the full piston stroke up is completed
And TODA/Adrian speaks truth... the denser the compressed mixture in the CC the harder it is to get spark to cross hence making the gap smaller or upgrading at least the coil. however i was lead to believe oem B series is 0.9mm gap for NA and was told to re-gap the factory produced NGK 1.1mm BKR series... i just left it and it's fine as you said.
this is why everyone says the coil upgrade is useless on a relatively stock car, it is unless you take advantage of it... and the only way to do so on a stockish car is to widen the gap on the plugs...
FYI to anyone interested.. the OEM coil was able to spark a 1.3mm iridium gap under various engine loads without detonating and response was still crisp.
ive run BKR7E-11's gapped at 0.030". They are a GTR plug, u can get em at most places. Not special order like others mentioned here.
does the job.... upto around 22psi... u may want to jump a heat range higher for more boost.