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Ey Guys,
Has anybody here,or do you know of anyone,who has built this combo? Using the standard OEM 3 layer gasket,based on online compression calculators,yields to 11.3CR,thats the same CR as the JDM ITR. Would these bolt-on to the stock B18C connecting rods without modifications? How about reliability-daily driven issues? :confused:
I have that set-up in my car. Just did a new Pb of 13.9@96mph.
Save yourself the hassle and by my set-up, its up for sale.
Pm for further detials
You've got impressive numbers for a 1.6setup. I've already gone down the B16A route five years ago. I want to do a B18C this time. Thanks anyway. :)
B18c are good as well. Make sure you get the right combination and built properly then you should produce some good result
Good luck with it
Benny, aren't you running a B16A block in yours, with B16a rods etc?Quote:
Originally Posted by Benson
Yer LOL. b16a block with b18c head.
Why not use ITR pistons with B18c(P72)head? We tested a very similar setup, B18c block with ITR pistons and P72 head around about 12:1 comp. It went 13.4@103MPH, alot more potential.
Not worth going for b16a pistons.
I still have my leftover pistons from my B16A. 12.1CR,isn't that a bit extreme? To get that sort of CR you would've had to use the P73-00 (JDM ITR) pistons with a single layer gasket. That sounds too hardcore for me,lol. Is that particular motor still running? How long ago was this built? I assume it had to run on 100ron fuel. Was it daily driven or just for race?
If you have P30 and PR3 B16a pistons they will make more compression than B18C ITR ones.Quote:
Originally Posted by fatboyz39
PR3 Piston 6.01cc dome
P30 Piston 6.93cc dome
P73 JDM Piston 5.96cc dome
ALLMTR996
Time to wake this thread from the dead.
After a hundred WSID sessions & five years later, I've finally done it LOL!
This was triggered by the engine turning into a fog machine on cold starts this past winter. I was hoping it would go away but it wouldn't.
My beloved B18C2 started to consume oil, had to top up half a litre every three weeks.
Fuel consumption also went up; couldn't do 450kms to a tank anymore.
Found grey crusty deposits on two spark plugs; other two were clean & healthy.
So despite the the engine still pulling hard & only done 133T kms, I decided it was time to give it an overhaul before it gets worse.
To keep the build quality I want, I sourced all the oem Honda parts needed from overseas (Gaskets, Seals, Piston Rings, Water Pump, etc).
Will update soon...
This must be the best thread dig on any forum. I saw the date and was waiting for "can I make 300kw on this?"
Hahahah! Don't we all wish for absurdly stupid power with loose change?Quote:
Originally Posted by Chr1s
But seriously, it's just an oem refresher build I did, keeping it a quiet reliable daily driver with a bit more response & power.
Just breaking it in now. Master Yoda (aka Adrian) @ SAS already tuned it last week.
Hey Spoon, so what power is it pulling?
133kw atw @ 8,000rpm & 208Nm torque @ 6,200rpmQuote:
Originally Posted by urxqsd
Not too shabby for OEM Honda rebuild.
very nice, not sure if should do headwork on my B16a2 or just leave it and collect a heap of parts to build B18 from scratch,
What Intake and TB you running? got some cam and springs and crap coming along with edelbrock intake but not sure if guna put on, if i spend all the extra cash for bolt ons and headwork i figure a new bswap is in order, only issue is my b16 has 16xxx since rebuild so would be a waste to swap it out. thoughts?
How did the motor look when your tore it down??
My b18c2 seems to be using a lot of oil too..although I did a comp test n got good consistent numbers accross all cylinders. Wondering if my motor is starting to die on me..but like yours still pulls hard.
Depends on what you're after, B16A has the ability to produce more power on higher revs, just doesn't make the low end torque a B18C makes. I'm using an OEM 62mm ITR Throttle Body w a Skunk2 IM. Yeah you can swap in some other cams & valvesprings in your freshly rebuilt B16A to make more power.Quote:
Originally Posted by urxqsd
Overall the engine internals were good for a 133t km engine, with the exception of the 4th Connecting Rod Bearing which was badly scored. Oil consumption can come from the following areas:Quote:
Originally Posted by vti_ek9
1. Gasket/ Seal Leaks
2. Worn Valve Stem Seals
3. Piston Rings
Not bad. What else did you change in your build that isn't stock?Quote:
Originally Posted by Spoon SiRG
Main reason for car is to have fun on the track, just want that little bit extra poke when i need it. looking at final drive aswell at the moment. it allegedly has CTR pistons in it all ready, was rebuild when i bough it, very clean motor.Quote:
Originally Posted by Spoon SiRG
guess its guna be trial and error for now till i find the balance i like..
Just the usual bolt-on's: Mugen Intake, Skunk2 IM, Z-Speed Camgears, DC Sports JDM 4-1 Header (2.5 Inch Version), Spoon Street Muffler to shut it up, Tuned via Apexi Power FC ECUQuote:
Originally Posted by rc_
Everything else is OEM Honda.
Damn that's good numbers for such minimal mods. Who did the rebuild? Motor must be nice n tight..
Had a bit of help from an ex-Honda master technician ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by vti_ek9
Yes it is crucial to check & measure clearances/ tolerances when assembling an engine to ensure it lasts & makes power.
I have 2 sets of SL valves springs here now Mr
Ooooh yeeaah! Time for aftermarket cams perhaps....Quote:
Originally Posted by ALLMTR996
Now your talking dirtyQuote:
Originally Posted by Spoon SiRG
You're still the original dirty old man lol!Quote:
Originally Posted by ALLMTR996
RM-M22xx or bust
So nay to Toda Spec B's?Quote:
Originally Posted by Adrian @ SAS
I love this guy hahaQuote:
Originally Posted by Adrian @ SAS
And I talk to Rocket all the time again so no problems getting them.
Nay.... :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Spoon SiRG
Don't get me wrong, the Toda B's are a great cam & would work well
But I gotta be honest, the RM-M22xx's are a better choice for you particularly with your build/combination.
+ they're exceptional value for money. (bang for buck)
If your still running the DC Header I would use M22x and not the XX
What pistons are you running and with what compression ratio?Quote:
Originally Posted by Spoon SiRG
I'm planning a rebuild on my b18 now, nothing extreme just bore/hone and head reco. I'm thinking if using p73 usdm pistons which will bump the compression up slightly but keen to see what you used since your results seem pretty good with a near stock build.
Ah yes, very good point.... :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by ALLMTR996
Time for better pipes too :p
Just so people understand what this is about YOU MUST MATCH YOUR CAMS to your inlet and exhaust manifolds or you will not get the full benefits from the cams,and Adrain and myself both know how well this head works with its valve job.Quote:
Originally Posted by Adrian @ SAS
OEM 81mm PR3 B16A pistons, with P72 head= 11.3:1 static compression.Quote:
Originally Posted by rc_
Quote:
Originally Posted by ALLMTR996
Thank you for your inputs Master Jedi's!Quote:
Originally Posted by Adrian @ SAS
So for my current engine to surpass the 140kw mark the following items need to be addressed:
1. Aftermarket Camshafts (Rocket Motorsports M22x)
2. Aftermarket Valve springs (Rocket SL)
3. Clip-On Retainers
4. Better Header (Recommendation?)
5. Re-tune the Apexi ECU to utilize the above mentioned upgrades.
Will the OEM Fuel Injectors & Fuel Pump be sufficient to feed this newfound thirst? (I'm guesstimating NOT lol!)
5. Bin the Apexi & replace it with an S300 or Neptune RTP (with Moates Demon)
It'll make about 4kw more everywhere... (not sure why)
nb: Of course you can keep using the Apexi as you've got it & it works
Probably make even more with a VIPEC or LINK G4 too... (great timing control on these)
Add some RDX injectors with a Aeromotive fuel pump with the above tuning solutions and I will love you long time.
PS I have the injector kits in stock for B series and fuel pumps can be had same day from a Sydnet based supplier.