dc5r q's

hi all!!!


first of all i want to welcome myself to the teg family! just bought a 02 dc5r! very happy with it. its stock apart from a pod filter, and xforce headers/catback exhaust.

although i feel like is lacking a bit of power!, any comments on that exhaust system, and maybe some recomendations?? i previously had a buddyclub spec3 exhaust that had a very nice note..

im comming from a 94 delsol with a b16b in it, and i must say that revved out much faster then this does.

also does any one know if the jdm ecu has a higher rev limiter? hate the 8k cutout.

hey mate... DC5R is nice car...

As for the exhaust i have not heard so many good things about Xforce (el cheapo brand)... maybe something like fujitsubo or something would be good....

as for JDM ECU the engine is different to the AUDM engine.. the jap engine has something like 180kw while the AUDM one has 145kw or something... so u be better of with a hondata system 2 help you out with that, but i wouldn't advise raising the rev limit without changing to apropiate cams and doing valve's n valve springs ect... (http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=72115)

also as for the slow reving maybe putting in a light weight flywheel in this will help u make the car rev very fast :)

Cheers Dave...

yeh thought it was a rubish exhaust!! if any one can send me links to good price parts for k20, would be good help! soz still a n00b to the k series!

cheers

thats cool man it was just knowledge i have accumulated over the past few yrs... as i dont personally have a k series...

but yer the traders on this forum will sort u out, speak 2 Yonas (eg5) from JDMyard he will sort u out with k series :)

to rev faster get a light weight flywheel and HD clutch (I have toda flywheel and Excedy clutch). For a good power exhuast, get something like Toda Headers and a Power getter cat back or toda headers. For ECU get Hondata.

All up that should put you back 1200ish for the fly/clutch, 2500/3000ish for the full exhuast, and about 1500-2000 for the Hondata... oh and then you need to get it all fitted...

Personally, I would worry more about sussy work before worrying about getting more power out of the car, as this is where the Type R is better then most other cars out there. Get yourself some good coilovers (Tein SS if you want to go decent on a budget [$2000]) and sway bars... i have Whiteline in my car... I'd say after putting in that sussy stuff... and putting on my 17's with decent rubber, was the most rewarding mods i have done to my car.

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Originally Posted by 45SET

to rev faster get a light weight flywheel and HD clutch (I have toda flywheel and Excedy clutch). For a good power exhuast, get something like Toda Headers and a Power getter cat back or toda headers. For ECU get Hondata.

All up that should put you back 1200ish for the fly/clutch, 2500/3000ish for the full exhuast, and about 1500-2000 for the Hondata... oh and then you need to get it all fitted...

Personally, I would worry more about sussy work before worrying about getting more power out of the car, as this is where the Type R is better then most other cars out there. Get yourself some good coilovers (Tein SS if you want to go decent on a budget [$2000]) and sway bars... i have Whiteline in my car... I'd say after putting in that sussy stuff... and putting on my 17's with decent rubber, was the most rewarding mods i have done to my car.

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I second that well said :) exactly what i did :)

17's are to big...

can u fit 15's on a DC5R ? if so there ur best bet :D

The smaller and lighter ur rims are the faster u go!
Also very cheap for tyres!!! especialy Semi's

Dave the JDM car had 17s. 17" is optimal diameter for the DC5R.

ohhh ok... but 15s ftmfw!

Upgrading the current exhaust system will give you abit more, but not noticable on the street. Go spend you cash on a lightweight clutch set, sussy and wheels. Heaps of good quality secondhand stuff on the forsale section here.

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Originally Posted by SHIFTY

17's are to big...can u fit 15's on a DC5R ? if so there ur best bet :D

The smaller and lighter ur rims are the faster u go!
Also very cheap for tyres!!! especialy Semi's

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Originally Posted by SHIFTY

ohhh ok... but 15s ftmfw!

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Not having a dig at you :) but dude this is a DC5 we're talking about here. Its like putting a 16 inch rim on a Crysler 300C :) Even stock 16 look small on the DC5! You can get lightweight 17's really cheap these days.

Maybe change your pod back to a stock box. When I had my stock DC5R, it revved very quick, it had better response than my SRI. I always thought b16a's revved slow, but yours was a b16b

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Originally Posted by Nepolian

Upgrading the current exhaust system will give you abit more, but not noticable on the street. Go spend you cash on a lightweight clutch set, sussy and wheels. Heaps of good quality secondhand stuff on the forsale section here.





Not having a dig at you :) but dude this is a DC5 we're talking about here. Its like putting a 16 inch rim on a Crysler 300C :) Even stock 16 look small on the DC5! You can get lightweight 17's really cheap these days.

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meh doesnt bother me.. im a dc2 man :p hahaha

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Originally Posted by Amusevtec

Maybe change your pod back to a stock box. When I had my stock DC5R, it revved very quick, it had better response than my SRI. I always thought b16a's revved slow, but yours was a b16b

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I 2nd that.....the pod is going to suck up all the hot air from ur extractor.....stock airbox is better...or get a CAI.....coilovers and sway does mark some big difference in terms of handling.....then some basic I/H/E will mark you feel like driving a different car......with lightweight fly and clutch will be even better........After I got mine done.......all I can say......its a totally different car....

+1 for sussy mods =]
u wont regret it

if u just wanna rev it higher, why not just change to a aftermarket ECU? i m sure the engine can handle up to 9,000rpm in first gear for a second. Don't over do it tho, but 1 or 2 times a day on first gear, i reckon the k20 will hold.

ps: what are the spec on the mugen N1 ecu? is it reprogrammable? which is better, mugen N1 or hondata k pro?

Mugen N1 have 2 models....
1. 5250/8600
2. 5250/9200
they are not reprogrammable....its a complete reflash......
You can't compare Kpro and Mugen N1.......coz they are different...one is plug and play and the other one is reprogrammable.....
I have mugen myself coz most of my parts are mugen.....I reckon they work together well.....but with other brand of parts Kpro may work better......coz Mugen N1 is tune for mugen parts for N1 races....and the result with other brand may not as good as what you expect....What I think its all up to you.....but I like mugen so if you ask me I will say mugen is better....lol......anyway....hope this help...

hey guys been a big help. i think first stop will be clutch and fly, then sus then ecu! im going to keep stock wheels on there just lower it, to be different. any one wanting to get rid of any stuff, feel free to pm me me :)

you'll notice a big differance if you change the rims.

Stock tyre size is 205/55/16, if you get 17x7's you'll put 225/45/17 tyres on, which with the added width, and smaller side wall make a fairly big differance.

As for getting a ECU as your first engine mod... unless you like having to retune your car after every mod you get, eg intake... headers... catback... etc... i would recommend you sit down and do a fair bit of research into what you are going to buy, because some mods can work with the stock ECU where as other need a ECU to operate properly, and decide if your going to:
a) Get the ECU tuned for a stock car, then retune after every engine mod
b) Get the ECU tuned for a stock car, then buy the rest of your mods, get them fitted all at once, and have one retune.
c) Get mods that are compatable with the stock ECU, then get the aftermarket ECU and have them all tuned at once (only thing you would worry about would be headers, most STREET intakes and catbacks will work with stock ECU)

As for suspension... please do ALOT of research in that department also, as some things work and others don't.

But yeah... its time to read as much about moded DC5r's as possible.

Good luck.

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Originally Posted by 45SET

you'll notice a big differance if you change the rims.

Stock tyre size is 205/55/16, if you get 17x7's you'll put 225/45/17 tyres on, which with the added width, and smaller side wall make a fairly big differance.

As for getting a ECU as your first engine mod... unless you like having to retune your car after every mod you get, eg intake... headers... catback... etc... i would recommend you sit down and do a fair bit of research into what you are going to buy, because some mods can work with the stock ECU where as other need a ECU to operate properly, and decide if your going to:
a) Get the ECU tuned for a stock car, then retune after every engine mod
b) Get the ECU tuned for a stock car, then buy the rest of your mods, get them fitted all at once, and have one retune.
c) Get mods that are compatable with the stock ECU, then get the aftermarket ECU and have them all tuned at once (only thing you would worry about would be headers, most STREET intakes and catbacks will work with stock ECU)

As for suspension... please do ALOT of research in that department also, as some things work and others don't.

But yeah... its time to read as much about moded DC5r's as possible.

Good luck.

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Hmm i agree with 45SET he is 100% correct would b a huge hasle to keep retuning ur ecu so just do all the mods you can with out having to touch the ecu then buy a ecu when u want more power, DC5R is all about handling as it is a track car so dont buy cheap suspension get the best u can afford , peace.

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Originally Posted by tectalk

Hmm i agree with 45SET he is 100% correct would b a huge hasle to keep retuning ur ecu so just do all the mods you can with out having to touch the ecu then buy a ecu when u want more power, DC5R is all about handling as it is a track car so dont buy cheap suspension get the best u can afford , peace.

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I'm with you bro......u dun wanna to buy the same parts twice and sell the 1st one and lost 50% of the price.....Except for Coilovers....what I did was start off with something more street friendly like Tein SS.....then if you find that you wanna to go more track setup you can do some upgrade later ....most likely will be couple of years down the track.......rather then go full hardcore race coilovers then you relise you can't use it on the street or your Mrs keep giving you shit about it.....:thumbsup:

haha yeahh lack of funds atm.. just realised why i was lacking a bit of power and response, due to the n00bs i bought it off, not tightning all the bolts on the headers. 2 had fallen off and the other 3 were just loose! ahhh much better now but! deff think first is springs, followed by clutch/fly

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Originally Posted by onabuzz

haha yeahh lack of funds atm.. just realised why i was lacking a bit of power and response, due to the n00bs i bought it off, not tightning all the bolts on the headers. 2 had fallen off and the other 3 were just loose! ahhh much better now but! deff think first is springs, followed by clutch/fly

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go straight to coilovers, not springs. cos if u go springs then later on, u just have to redo it again. just get it right the first time.

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Originally Posted by air23box

Mugen N1 have 2 models....
1. 5250/8600
2. 5250/9200
they are not reprogrammable....its a complete reflash......
You can't compare Kpro and Mugen N1.......coz they are different...one is plug and play and the other one is reprogrammable.....
I have mugen myself coz most of my parts are mugen.....I reckon they work together well.....but with other brand of parts Kpro may work better......coz Mugen N1 is tune for mugen parts for N1 races....and the result with other brand may not as good as what you expect....What I think its all up to you.....but I like mugen so if you ask me I will say mugen is better....lol......anyway....hope this help...

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I m guessing the different between the 2 are the different cut off? like 8600rpm and 9200rpm? which one did you get? what mods do you have on the dc5r at the moment?

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Originally Posted by BusterSonic12

go straight to coilovers, not springs. cos if u go springs then later on, u just have to redo it again. just get it right the first time.



I m guessing the different between the 2 are the different cut off? like 8600rpm and 9200rpm? which one did you get? what mods do you have on the dc5r at the moment?

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second that get coilovers straight away no need to muck around with springs.

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Originally Posted by onabuzz

haha yeahh lack of funds atm.. just realised why i was lacking a bit of power and response, due to the n00bs i bought it off, not tightning all the bolts on the headers. 2 had fallen off and the other 3 were just loose! ahhh much better now but! deff think first is springs, followed by clutch/fly

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thats funny man.. hahahahahahahahahahhahahahhahahahahahahhahahahahah ahah
not tightening the boltssss.. which foooool does that HAHAHAHAHAHAHAH

sorry its just funny... gl with the carrr... im broke as too so dw.. i know how u feel haha :thumbsup:

if only coilovers were cheaper :P

oh can any one tell me why no spare parts shops have dc5 in there brake books?!?! does anyone know if they share common pad with s2000? i traced the pad and he matched it to that, but i just wana clarify!?!

cheers

yeh front calipers are the same as s2k...

hey guys, found a pretty cheap JDM DC5r intake manifold. was wondering if it is worth the buy, any one know roughly what it will do for my performance compared to audm DC5r intake..

cheers dudes

PRC yeah?? Should increase your mid range.

buy the one i got with the gasket ;P

i neva got around to chucking it on

not to sure prc?? its brand new in honda spare parts box.

which one was that? this comes with gasket as well.. n how much.. link me

JDM IM = PRC

EURO on is = PRB

from memory

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Originally Posted by onabuzz

hey guys, found a pretty cheap JDM DC5r intake manifold. was wondering if it is worth the buy, any one know roughly what it will do for my performance compared to audm DC5r intake..

cheers dudes

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not much......I've got them in mine and to be honest....dun feel much....or maybe I am not paying attention to it...lol

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Originally Posted by BusterSonic12

I m guessing the different between the 2 are the different cut off? like 8600rpm and 9200rpm? which one did you get? what mods do you have on the dc5r at the moment?

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the tuning of the 8600 is not as far end compare to 9200.....the 9200 cut off is pretty much max out from our current K20 engine....and I got the 9200 one.....I do rev it all the way to 9200 sometimes.....about mod list.....add me on japmmc@hotmail.com........I've got a long list.....lol

JDM DC5R K20A = PRC

JDM EURO R K20a = RBC

AUDM DC5R K20a = PRB

Remember that the JDM K20 has different, headers,compression and cams to state the obvious.

Simply chucking the JDM manifold would not make that much difference as the K20A2 would still require further mods to realise any gains.

I would say there would be gains throughout the rev range but it'd be marginal. You should atleast run JDM cams and springs with the PRC.

congrats on the purchase bro... see you round the area

Congrats on the DC5R, I had mine for 5-6 months now.. and i love mine. But i don't have a cut-off at 8000 mine goes all the way to 8700. With my Hondata ecu.. I would suggest you go for a mugen for track thou, They rev at 9200 at cutoff. But it dis-engauges your air-conditioning. So air con won't work with a mugen ecu.. They go for around $1000-$1400.

I'm happy with my hondata.. CBF getting a mugen, unless i track more. But my car is also my daily drive to work, so air-con is a must !!!

My cars also stock with just a injen CIA, hondata ecu and Zeal Endless XS coilovers. Will go mugen headers and exhaust hopefully by the end of the year.

With your exhaust and headers, your car must be dam loud!!.. thats why i wanna go mugen.. haha

anyways all the best with you and your DC5R. i just got my front and back bumoper resprayed... "alot of melbourne drivers can't drive!"

haha thanks guys! yeh i deff need my aircon! will look into hondata within the next couple of months! i cant stand 8000 cut off. any one know where i would be able to get ahold of jdm cams n springs? would want to do it all at once with the ecu..

jdm dc5r hasnt got 180kw, its 167, and aussie one is 147kw. toda catback as well as headers has best power gains. u get wat u pay for. xforce has actually decreased power in some cases. and yea 15s are a joke on a dc5.

mugen ecu is complete garbage. hondata all the way. just because an ecu has a rev limit to 9200, doesnt mean the car is actually making power from say about 8700. besides with a hondata u can make your rev limit to wat u want. as long a it makes logical sense and makes power.

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Originally Posted by Mikes_DC5R

Congrats on the DC5R, I had mine for 5-6 months now.. and i love mine. But i don't have a cut-off at 8000 mine goes all the way to 8700. With my Hondata ecu.. I would suggest you go for a mugen for track thou, They rev at 9200 at cutoff. But it dis-engauges your air-conditioning. So air con won't work with a mugen ecu.. They go for around $1000-$1400.

I'm happy with my hondata.. CBF getting a mugen, unless i track more. But my car is also my daily drive to work, so air-con is a must !!!

My cars also stock with just a injen CIA, hondata ecu and Zeal Endless XS coilovers. Will go mugen headers and exhaust hopefully by the end of the year.

With your exhaust and headers, your car must be dam loud!!.. thats why i wanna go mugen.. haha

anyways all the best with you and your DC5R. i just got my front and back bumoper resprayed... "alot of melbourne drivers can't drive!"

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Think again and do some research b4 you post.....Mugen ECU do work with air-con.......:thumbdwn:

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Originally Posted by onabuzz

haha thanks guys! yeh i deff need my aircon! will look into hondata within the next couple of months! i cant stand 8000 cut off. any one know where i would be able to get ahold of jdm cams n springs? would want to do it all at once with the ecu..

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Whats the point spending extra $$ going backwards and getting OEM stuff.....I will just upgrade to toda cams and springs and consider the $$ you paying is not that much different...

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Originally Posted by bartek

mugen ecu is complete garbage. hondata all the way. just because an ecu has a rev limit to 9200, doesnt mean the car is actually making power from say about 8700. besides with a hondata u can make your rev limit to wat u want. as long a it makes logical sense and makes power.

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Have you seat in one with Mugen ECU? please respect others and dun make any post if you dun know what its like......Mugen is a plug and play compare to hondata which is tunable.......they are different product.....I dun see if you are a shit driver,.......by putting hondata in ur car will make you a pro.....All I wanna to say is Mugen may not be the best in the market but since I use it till now I can tell there is difference between stock and Mugen....and its really noticable......and Hondata is a good product too.......:thumbsup:

i know of a guy who is running the mugen ecu, with an x force exhaust with extractors and some random intake and i saw him run a 13.6 at WSID a few weeks back

dont have a spez attack. mugen aint worth the money, and have actually seat in one with it, and hondata shits all over it my friend. ppl buy parts to have the best possible power for the money they spent, unlike u being fooled by its name. dont comment on my driving as u dnt know me.

fujitsubo powergetter for the win!!!

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Originally Posted by air23box

Whats the point spending extra $$ going backwards and getting OEM stuff.....I will just upgrade to toda cams and springs and consider the $$ you paying is not that much different...

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Please explain on how it is going backwards?? As far as I know stock K20A2 makes 147 KW (AUDM DC5) and JDM K20A's make 160 KW stock. I'd say the difference would be higher with I/H/E. It is common knowledge that there is 10 - 15 KW difference ATW.

Upgrading to Toda cams and springs cost $$ More labour to insert springs, need heavy duty tensioner etc.......need ECU to run aswell......and IMHO theres about 3k's difference in gettin Toda V JDM, hows that 'Not that much difference?

As far as I know, you can run the JDM cams without ecu change (correct me if Im wrong), without spring change and they can be had for under $500. Obviously up to the individual on how much they want to spend of course.

Dont get me wrong, Toda upgrade is great, but not everyone wants to spend 4k's on a N/A upgrade.

Just thought people should know other forms of mild upgrades without thinking that they'll have to spend heaps.

Peace :)

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Originally Posted by air23box

Think again and do some research b4 you post.....Mugen ECU do work with air-con.......:thumbdwn:




Whats the point spending extra $$ going backwards and getting OEM stuff.....I will just upgrade to toda cams and springs and consider the $$ you paying is not that much different...




Have you seat in one with Mugen ECU? please respect others and dun make any post if you dun know what its like......Mugen is a plug and play compare to hondata which is tunable.......they are different product.....I dun see if you are a shit driver,.......by putting hondata in ur car will make you a pro.....All I wanna to say is Mugen may not be the best in the market but since I use it till now I can tell there is difference between stock and Mugen....and its really noticable......and Hondata is a good product too.......:thumbsup:

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Hey Man, I'm just saying from what i heard. And i was thinking of buying a Mugen ECU at one stage. People told me keep my hondata. And i'm glad i did... They just told me air con don't work with mugen ECU... if you have a mugen ecu and air con works. Then hey i'm wrong dude, i said it from what i heard.

All is good, Toda headers and catback hey... hrmz... i want mugen... but now startin to go for what the original owner had... He had toda heads and buddyclub spec 3 exhaust. but **** its loud. prolli go mugen for exhaust, more cruisy i think...

Thanks for the correction:thumbsup:

You have to take into consideration the difference in compression, changing K20A2 cams to JDM k20a won't turn your k20a2 in to a JDM spec! In saying that i'm sure there would still be increases to be seen

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bartek

dont have a spez attack. mugen aint worth the money, and have actually seat in one with it, and hondata shits all over it my friend. ppl buy parts to have the best possible power for the money they spent, unlike u being fooled by its name. dont comment on my driving as u dnt know me.

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i think your the one that keens to chill... everyone is differant, and its quiet obvious that he has done his research and decided to go with the Mugen option. If you would take the time to read air23box's mod list, you would notice that most of his modifications are Mugen, so infact, the Mugen ECU would be a good option, as it optimises what mods he already has.

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Please explain on how it is going backwards?? As far as I know stock K20A2 makes 147 KW (AUDM DC5) and JDM K20A's make 160 KW stock. I'd say the difference would be higher with I/H/E. It is common knowledge that there is 10 - 15 KW difference ATW.

Upgrading to Toda cams and springs cost $$ More labour to insert springs, need heavy duty tensioner etc.......need ECU to run aswell......and IMHO theres about 3k's difference in gettin Toda V JDM, hows that 'Not that much difference?

As far as I know, you can run the JDM cams without ecu change (correct me if Im wrong), without spring change and they can be had for under $500. Obviously up to the individual on how much they want to spend of course.

Dont get me wrong, Toda upgrade is great, but not everyone wants to spend 4k's on a N/A upgrade.

Just thought people should know other forms of mild upgrades without thinking that they'll have to spend heaps.

Peace :)

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Same argument for Mugen/plug-&-play ECU vs Hondata.

With a Mugen/plug-&-play ECU you plug it in and see the gains stright away. Where as with a Hondata you have to have the original outlay (which is more then Mugen to start with), then get it tuned... then when ever you do a new mod get it tuned again...

I'm not saying that Mugen/plug-&-play is the best kind of ECU (I'll probably go Hondata if I do change my ECU) but I'm showing the "other side of the coin" and being open minded about the subject (which some of you really need to learn).

Now... play nice kids :thumbsup:

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Originally Posted by Nepolian

Please explain on how it is going backwards?? As far as I know stock K20A2 makes 147 KW (AUDM DC5) and JDM K20A's make 160 KW stock. I'd say the difference would be higher with I/H/E. It is common knowledge that there is 10 - 15 KW difference ATW.

Upgrading to Toda cams and springs cost $$ More labour to insert springs, need heavy duty tensioner etc.......need ECU to run aswell......and IMHO theres about 3k's difference in gettin Toda V JDM, hows that 'Not that much difference?

As far as I know, you can run the JDM cams without ecu change (correct me if Im wrong), without spring change and they can be had for under $500. Obviously up to the individual on how much they want to spend of course.

Dont get me wrong, Toda upgrade is great, but not everyone wants to spend 4k's on a N/A upgrade.

Just thought people should know other forms of mild upgrades without thinking that they'll have to spend heaps.

Peace :)

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I'm not trying to start fire anyone in here....but as 45set mention......ppl keep saying hondata is this good....that good.....yeah I also agree hondata is a good product and I may also upgrade to it in later stage when I start do some internal work of mine....but if I do a mod I will only do the way that I think it worth it.....as I know there is cams which still can use ur oem ECU then why spend couple of hundred for 3-5 kw gain? if you want to get similar output as jdm you need to change cam, pistons, intake manifold.......valve springs and retainers are the same....once I touch internal I will prefer to spend a little more and do it once....hence most ppl dun wanna to re-do any work in the later stage.......in that case you save up some labour cost and time in the long run......

Everyone do mod their car up in different way and there is no rite and wrong.....as long as you enjoy and have fun......we all here to share some experience and try to learn more yeah? Sorry to keep this long and hope very one have a great chinese new year anywayz......:thumbsup:

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Originally Posted by 45SET

i think your the one that keens to chill... everyone is differant, and its quiet obvious that he has done his research and decided to go with the Mugen option. If you would take the time to read air23box's mod list, you would notice that most of his modifications are Mugen, so infact, the Mugen ECU would be a good option, as it optimises what mods he already has.



Same argument for Mugen/plug-&-play ECU vs Hondata.

With a Mugen/plug-&-play ECU you plug it in and see the gains stright away. Where as with a Hondata you have to have the original outlay (which is more then Mugen to start with), then get it tuned... then when ever you do a new mod get it tuned again...

I'm not saying that Mugen/plug-&-play is the best kind of ECU (I'll probably go Hondata if I do change my ECU) but I'm showing the "other side of the coin" and being open minded about the subject (which some of you really need to learn).

Now... play nice kids :thumbsup:

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CORRECT :)

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Originally Posted by 45SET

i think your the one that keens to chill... everyone is differant, and its quiet obvious that he has done his research and decided to go with the Mugen option. If you would take the time to read air23box's mod list, you would notice that most of his modifications are Mugen, so infact, the Mugen ECU would be a good option, as it optimises what mods he already has.

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Thats excetly what I mean....thx for doing that......:thumbsup: