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got my new system put in today-- 2.25 cat back with new resi--- and a nice oval magnaflow muff on the back
IT SUCKS ASS--- my car seems slower... then i ran a gtech 1/4 and gained almost a whole fkn second.... My 0-100 is now in the high 8s or 9s--- what da heck is going on now?
also its chewing more petrol than before with less power... das badddddd
HELP NEEDED.....
What can i do?
maybe u haven't reset ur ECU....
or otherwise there maybe some leak in the system...
hope this helps
Give the new parts some time.. let it run in that's what I do..
Other possibilities other than the leak will_pop mentioned includes.. your muffler is not suited for the car, what model MagnaFlow is that? Are they press bends or mandrel bends?
Then again, when was the last time u ran the car before this mod? tyre pressure, atmosphere, weight of the car play a part too :)
Your car is a 2.2L yeah?
yeah man 2.2sohc vtec-well it was warm today so yeah.. but stilll c'mon almost a whole second off--- i was running 1/4's almost everyday man... trying to improve it.
got the magnaflow 14832 muffler-
would http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...MakeTrack=true be something which would fit and go good to help out? do i need O2 sensor or sumthing?
man im gonna go run a 1/4 now see how it is in the cooler weather.
arghhhhhh-===it is press bent but didnt seem too bad.
damn damn damn... NOT HAPPY CHAPPY.. gonna just rice the car up now LOL
i did reset the ECU-- unplug the negative terminal for 30 seconds.
i will get them to check for any leaks but yeah.... argh
damn damn damn...only reliable source has been ebay for me LOL
That was the same muffler I had on my Euro before I changed it again LOL.. nice deep low growl :D
If u are running a press bend system to suit a say, 2.25 system.. the preferred press bend diameter should be like 2.5
Well, seems like the muffler is right.. Better check for leaks then.. As for the DC Sports Headers, I'm getting a set myself for my car, about 500AUD air freight to Australia from USA.. The Headers should come with O2 sensor slots to put the OEM ones in so I won't worry about that..
I agree, there are not many if not no DC Sports distributor here.. I'm getting mine sent from USA to Singapore and then to Australia... Cheaper freight LOL
for one thing you can easily lose a second in different weather.... if the road is different this is also significant. if your engine oil is old this is also significant. and lastly if ur tired and u stuff up ur shifts u can lose heaps.
You can't expect to shift at the same points as well using the new exhaust system... the power band may have changed... work it out first before u get worried :)
you lose too much low end torque with 2.5" i can tell u.... its too big
did u just mentioned that u haven't got ur O2 sensor on??
u had to have it on .... or definatelly bad petrol milage..
will pop- its a catback system, the o2 sensor has not been touched.
dundas- go disconnect the battery for about 10 mins, then reconnect it, start the car and let it idle for 10 mins without touching the accelerater or driving it. Then turn the car off. This is the best way to reset your ecu. Previously i was pulling the radio back up fuse to reset my ecu and now that i did it the proper way i realised that the fuse removal thing didnt do jack.
I went from 300km per tank to an easy 400km per tank.
I have 2.5" press bent cat back system, i didnt seem to lose any low end torque when i fitted the system to my f22b.
aiyah=--== ill reset it when my brother comes home with my petrol draining beast making no power just noise LOL
well lets see if it works...
i was told just disconnecting my negative terminal for 30 seconds would do the trick of reseting the computer.
i was told to just pull the radio back up fuse but it obviously did not work as it made no difference to the fuel consumption- trust me, i reset it bout 10 times this way.
THE ONLY WAY you can reset it properly is the way i mentioned previously which i found out from a technical thread on ozhonda.
YOU BLOODY GENIUS== cars running up to speed now-- a little quicker too maybe-Quote:
Originally Posted by h22a accord
i think if i get a tune up it should go even better--or will it not?
but yes. my car is running back to normal at least it is not slower anymore-
Dundas
good to hear problem solved..Quote:
Originally Posted by dundas
i thought he did not connect the sensors in the cat-converter or the one on the 4-2-1... anyway... keke
i might go reset my ecu again ..
LMAO LMAO
nah didnt even touch the cat buddy -
ahah whats wrong with your car man?
hmm interesting cuz my car didn't suddenly breathe fire when i reset the ecu after my zorst. it seemed pretty much the same... but over the next week it improved considerably. wonder why
ohh did it get better over a week? quicker? ^_^ hope so it better LOL
like i said, slightly less low end torque, but higher top end
dundas.. haha coz i thought u got the whole cat-back system which got the 4-2-1 and the whole piping thing from the head to the end...
anyway .. some mis-understanding
Honda ECU'z also have a memory, they learn your way of driving and trim the fuel and ignition to suit. This can be a bad thing on some cars with mods. tend to piss people off when they have to keep resetting there ECU to get some extra power from their cars. the best way to set the Idle parameters is with the PGMFI tester, but only a dealer can do it for you. So I guess it keep resetting the ECU for you guys.Quote:
Originally Posted by viperx
hey,
how much will it cost to set the idle parameters? (whats it actually do)??
can you do it ^_^
nope I cant. they plug in the PGMFI tester to your cars DLC port. click a few buttons and then while you engine is running and the PGMFI tester talks to your ECU setting the Idle.Quote:
Originally Posted by dundas
PGMFI (wats dat) c'mon u know how noobie i am at this dude.
DLC ports ehehehe ???
does it increase da idle? im lossssss man... LMAO
how much would it cost? :S
you would have to call a honda dealer to find out what they charge
the PGMFI tester is Hondas 1st Diagnostic tool, its a hand held device that has a LCD screen that reports the data of the PGMFI system to the Tech using it. it connects to the 3 pin connector under your gloe box called DLC ( data link Connector ). with this tester they can also check the ABS SRS and program the imobiliser system with it. it has now been superseded with the new tablet pc thing ( cant remember its name )
the PGMFI tester displays fault codes also sub codes to help diagnose tricky problems. it also displays all the sensors values in real time to the operator and can record about 30 sec of engine activity. ist a great tool but only as good as the person using it.
when the idle is set with the tester, the car idles real sweet. you may not notice while its just sitting there idling but you do notice when you turn you stearing wheel or turn on the aircon and you idle stays the same rather than having to hunt a little to compensate for the extra load.
ohh wicked will call honda ummm wednesday or sumthing which honda dealer you reccomend?
all of em are good, Gary at Potters is a nice bloke, Frank at Nordicks is cool, Cory and Andrew at Formula are Good as Well, Formula would be th closest to you. all three places have good techs who know there Hondas.