OVERHEATED now running sluggish

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14-03-2008, 07:09 PM
tekung89

OVERHEATED now running sluggish

well i've been having heating problems, and the reason was because my oem radiator was leaking. so one night i gave it a run and the car heated up. i drove the car for 30secs while the water temp stick was at 80% (H = 100%) because i needed to find a place to pull over.i then quickly took my 3Lwater bottled and watered down the radiator (engine was off) and sat around for it to cool.

anyways i drove the car home eventually and the water temp was still at 60%-80%. i started the car the next day and it seems like the car kinda struggles abit while cranking but it does start. car sounds abit louder as well, seems abit weaker wen driving up a hill .

my plans tomrrow are to
change spark plugs ~ heat might've caused them to fail
retorque the head to 70lbs (reason being is wen i took my sparkplugs out the middle two were kind of loose, maybe the head have caused this which makes me thing the head studd bolts have come abit loose so from the previous toque of 60lbs its going to be 70lbs)

~ if it doesnt change then im gona change the headgasket ~_~
14-03-2008, 07:14 PM
DLO01

When you blow a headgasket from water jackets to cylinder. Water can seep in to your cylinder when motor off. This could explain your problem starting.
14-03-2008, 08:29 PM
TheGoodDeal

As above, you may have blow a headgasket or you may crack or warps the head block when you puring water into radiator when engine still hot.
14-03-2008, 08:57 PM
DLO01

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheGoodDeal

or you may crack or warps the head block when you puring water into radiator when engine still hot.

Umm, I don't think so.
14-03-2008, 10:29 PM
Benson

Why drive the car when you know its overheating? Should of tow it... besides that, you should of turn on the heater on full blast to reduce the heat.

My beat is headgasket
14-03-2008, 10:33 PM
shadou

sounds like a headgasket to me as well, when you change the spark plugs use a torch and peek down each cylinder. Another way is to give it a good drive, turn off and start the next day, it should be difficult to start.

Best of luck though
15-03-2008, 12:48 AM
Lukezen27

My heat problems were my head gasket...

Small leak in the water jacket to cylinder 4

Dang!!

Coursed by overheating in peak hour traffic!!
15-03-2008, 04:17 PM
tekung89

changed the spark plugs and she cranks and starts fine now (spark plugs were the problem). i dnt think the headgasket gave way yet. the cars still a tad bit louder then before but its in a ok state to drive now. thanks for all ur help
15-03-2008, 06:15 PM
90LAN

must be the new turbo manifold u have .....
15-03-2008, 06:37 PM
tekung89

havnt installed the new manifold yet. however my one is leaking and wen reving at idle u can see smoke come out. its quite bad now and i think that is wats causing my motor to play up abit.

if my cars completely warmed up , should it idle at 730-750? because wen the fan kicks in the idle drops to like 590-600 and the motor struggles for that split second and it jumps back to 730-750. usually it doesnt seem to struggle wen the fan kicks in that much from before the overheat occured
17-03-2008, 03:54 PM
tekung89

did compression test guys, took my sparkplugs out and check every hole, all three got 180psi or somthing, cant remember how it was measured on the gauge, but one hole got 90psi so im pretty sure its a HG problem. thanks for ur help
17-03-2008, 05:47 PM
Lukezen27

Quote:

Originally Posted by tekung89

did compression test guys, took my sparkplugs out and check every hole, all three got 180psi or somthing, cant remember how it was measured on the gauge, but one hole got 90psi so im pretty sure its a HG problem. thanks for ur help

Sounds like you need new rings to at only 180 :eek:

Mine are 200psi
17-03-2008, 09:37 PM
tekung89

didnt u get ur engine reco? i got my head reco on a 100 000km block so 180-190psi'ish isnt too bad for me =)
18-03-2008, 06:30 AM
Lukezen27

Quote:

Originally Posted by tekung89

didnt u get ur engine reco? i got my head reco on a 100 000km block so 180-190psi'ish isnt too bad for me =)

Yeah I got new rings that's why there 200

I'm just saying while you've got you head off might as well do ya ring :)
18-03-2008, 06:34 AM
DLO01

Its a bit more of a job then just taking your head off.
18-03-2008, 07:26 AM
Benson

different comp tester. Time for new head gasket.
18-03-2008, 08:21 AM
BlitZ

Quote:

Originally Posted by DLO01

Umm, I don't think so.

yeah .. it does happen:thumbsup: u always wait till it cools down first
18-03-2008, 01:30 PM
fatboyz39

90psi in one cylinder is not good. Time to change headgasket.
18-03-2008, 07:23 PM
tekung89

cheers for all ur help guys, umm lukenzen i dnt think i'd wanna put new rings in, if u've done it urself its not really fun while the blocks stuck in the car.

i mean while i had the block out in the open one time i could have but i'd probably tipped her upside down and done it but i'd prob jus replace the headgasket. 200psi is good stuff man, i think thats the best it can get for a Y1, she must go good.
18-03-2008, 07:30 PM
Lukezen27

Quote:

Originally Posted by tekung89

cheers for all ur help guys, umm lukenzen i dnt think i'd wanna put new rings in, if u've done it urself its not really fun while the blocks stuck in the car.

i mean while i had the block out in the open one time i could have but i'd probably tipped her upside down and done it but i'd prob jus replace the headgasket. 200psi is good stuff man, i think thats the best it can get for a Y1, she must go good.

Yeah I don't do motor work myself but I can imagine it might be a biatch lol

Won't 180ish to 200ish make a big diff in power in the end result?

I was not aware that 200 was anything special... blocks only done just over 100,000k plus less the 10,000 since new ring install so i guess that helps
18-03-2008, 10:34 PM
fatboyz39

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lukezen27

Yeah I don't do motor work myself but I can imagine it might be a biatch lol

Won't 180ish to 200ish make a big diff in power in the end result?

I was not aware that 200 was anything special... blocks only done just over 100,000k plus less the 10,000 since new ring install so i guess that helps

can't compare...different comp tester unless it was the same brand. Power difference won't be a big margin.
24-03-2008, 10:06 AM
spanks

Do a dry ANDwet test.That will give you a true indication of ring condition...and also tell you where the compression loss in no.4 is.
14-05-2008, 12:29 PM
cvicek

hey guys, just wondering if headgasket cracked, how much will it cost to replace?
14-05-2008, 12:41 PM
string

$100 yourself, $500+ someone else doing it
14-05-2008, 06:33 PM
cvicek

thanks for the info string.
14-05-2008, 06:36 PM
cvicek

so the sign for Headgasket crack is blown white smoke from the exhaust?

i notice my car blowning lots of white smoke the other day after washing my car. i warmed the car ,but it still blown lots of white smoke, it was a really cold day that day, could it be because of the weather?

but on a nice whether, it hardly blown any smoke from the exhaust.
14-05-2008, 06:38 PM
Lukezen27

Quote:

Originally Posted by cvicek

so the sign for Headgasket crack is blown white smoke from the exhaust?

i notice my car blowning lots of white smoke the other day after washing my car. i warmed the car ,but it still blown lots of white smoke, it was a really cold day that day, could it be because of the weather?

but on a nice whether, it hardly blown any smoke from the exhaust.

White smoke at any times bad mate

Or heating problems

My blown HG didn't blow any smoke at all
14-05-2008, 06:48 PM
Mr_will

Quote:

Originally Posted by DLO01

Umm, I don't think so.

please explain why not
14-05-2008, 07:06 PM
DLO01

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheGoodDeal

or you may crack or warps the head block when you puring water into radiator when engine still hot.

Quote:

Originally Posted by DLO01

Umm, I don't think so.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr_will

please explain why not

Because solid metal is an insulator, it will take time to warm up and therefore to cool down. Water transfers heat very easy. It warms up instantly and therefore have no affect on the metal.
14-05-2008, 11:08 PM
string

If I heat a big billet of aluminium, then drip water onto a small section of it, of course that small section is going to lose heat to the water. Warming up and cooling down have far more metal to work with than just a small part of the head/cylinders which are coming into contact with cold water.

Perhaps you could be more specific about what you mean by "no affect on the metal"?
14-05-2008, 11:45 PM
Limbo

Quote:

Originally Posted by DLO01

Because solid metal is an insulator, it will take time to warm up and therefore to cool down. Water transfers heat very easy. It warms up instantly and therefore have no affect on the metal.

i disagree with this one Deano, what about warped rotors? The water causes them to warp due to cooling them too fast. I'm sure something similar would happen if you pump cold water into a hot engine
15-05-2008, 12:58 AM
Mr_will

Quote:

Originally Posted by DLO01

Because solid metal is an insulator, it will take time to warm up and therefore to cool down. Water transfers heat very easy. It warms up instantly and therefore have no affect on the metal.

noones really arguing that it will take time, whats relevant is that different portions will be cooling at different rates, and if the variation the rate of cooling is sufficient, the head can warp
15-05-2008, 06:38 AM
DLO01

All good valid points. The question was, may the head crack/warp if you pour water in the radiator when the engine is hot.

I do not think it will.
15-05-2008, 08:11 AM
JohnL

Quote:

Originally Posted by DLO01

All good valid points. The question was, may the head crack/warp if you pour water in the radiator when the engine is hot.

I do not think it will.

If the newly introduced (cool) coolant stays in the radiator then you are correct. If the cool coolant contacts the hot metal of the engine then there's every chance the metal will distort.

If the coolant level is low, then when you top up the rad at least some cool coolant is likely to flow into the engine through the upper rad hose into the hot engine, and there will be significant risk of the metal being distorted by the sudden encounter with coolant that is substantially colder than the metal.

Even if no significant quantity of cool coolant flowed backward into the upper engine, if you introduce a substantial quantity of cool coolant into the radiator then start the engine, that cool fluid will be pumped into the engine from the rad in the normal manner. This means that there will be a sudden change in the temp of the coolant in the engine itself, which may be sufficient to damage the metal.

If the engine is very hot (i.e. significantly overheated) and coolant level quite low, then topping up with fresh water / coolant poses a very serious risk of damaging the engine, especially those with aluminium alloy castings (i.e. all Hondas).

This is known as 'thermal shock', and depending on all factors involved (disparity of temps, metallurgy of component material, etc) can result in no damage (at hopeful best), metal warpage, or metal fracture.

The danger of damage can be minimised by allowing the engine to cool down substantially before topping up the coolant, topping up with hot water, or by topping up the coolant very slowly with the engine running.

This means that fresh (cool) coolant is trickled into the rad as existing hot coolant is flowing through the cooling system, so the new coolant mixes gradually with the hot coolant and no 'slug' of cold coolant suddenly comes into contact with the engine metal. This shouldn't be attempted if the engine is severely overheated (be patient and wait for it to cool down first...).
15-05-2008, 09:26 AM
DLO01

What about when you fire up your engine for the 1st time in the moring. Stone cold motor & extreme high temps in the combustion chambers. This is the same case but in the reverse direction. Does our head warp?