B16b or B18c7

Hi all
I am just about ready to do an engine change into my EG5 but everyday i change my mind on which of the 2 above motors im going to do the swap with... Theres pros and cons to both swaps but i was hopin to get some thoughts for everyone here,
eventually i wanted to get the car to run 12s or faster but its basically a everyday driver and i want to keep it N/A with petrol on the way up... and up so right now that is a preety big part of the choice cause i dont want to be changing the engine to a different one, why i say the B16b instead of just not doing the B18c7 swap is because i dont have to engineer the b16 in NSW and it is the same block as the b18 neway
So any input would be great
Cheers

b18c7 > b16b

it might be the same block, but bigger displacement = more torque and potential power. personally i'd go straight to the B18 simply cos it's got more torque for everyday driving... even if it means engineering it might be more difficult... my 2c

also think about your end goal dude, if your wanting to run 12's you will find it easier to do that out of a B18... although wanting to do that with an N/A motor B18 is big bucks and time...

Good luck, i'd go straight to the B18

a b18 n/a cant run 12s most likely 14s as stock with bolt-on mods, k-series run 12s.
its mainly for street use right? plus if you really dont want to go through the trouble of engineer cert i reckon a b16 is enough. cuz when u think about it 1-2sec doesnt really matter on the street.
have you thought about a b16a? a b16a in eg can prob run high 14s low 15s stock with bolt ons. so thats only 1sec or less diff to a b18c7 with alot less costs involved. around 3-4k.
later on you can save up for a k-series which would run 12s stock with bolt on mods, rather then spending thousands on a b-series to run 13s, running 12s on a b-series n/a will be difficult

Mr Spoon himself recommended that if you had a b16b to get a stroker kit ;)

Hey dude i say b18c7 man i got a motor for sale =] hehehe well as i reckon b18c7 is way better then a b16b why ? b18c7 is much more torque and power at the wheels and it screems on vtec yo . i reckon b16b for turbo they do have power N/A but i dont reckonmend N/A in b16b if turbo thats alrite but if u think about it the mount of money u spend in a b16b is a waste if u want to go N/A its more worth doing a b18c7 =] (but if u are looking for a b18c7 type R motor i got one with all internals inc computer hondata s100. cheerz mate

why get a b16b and stroke it out while u can stroke a b18c7 type R to a 2L rather then stoking the b16b to a 1.8L

nothing beat displacement
thats all i have to say

I know the whole torque with the b18 is way better than a b16b but with the b16 i put in the b18 crank (after the block mods) and lost more other work to get it to "Around" the 12s mark and not have to engineer it cause of the stamp on the block

anyone know the round about figure for engineering a b18c7 into an Eg in NSW?

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Originally Posted by simonnowis

a b18 n/a cant run 12s most likely 14s as stock with bolt-on mods, k-series run 12s.
its mainly for street use right? plus if you really dont want to go through the trouble of engineer cert i reckon a b16 is enough. cuz when u think about it 1-2sec doesnt really matter on the street.
have you thought about a b16a? a b16a in eg can prob run high 14s low 15s stock with bolt ons. so thats only 1sec or less diff to a b18c7 with alot less costs involved. around 3-4k.
later on you can save up for a k-series which would run 12s stock with bolt on mods, rather then spending thousands on a b-series to run 13s, running 12s on a b-series n/a will be difficult

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this is ridiculous, 1-2 second difference anywhere track or road is a world of difference...it's like excel vs ek4...
also bolt-on b18c7 will get u into mid 13s as proved again and again by members on this forum...

^ thats a pretty blatant and obvious fact there espcially about b18c7's running mid 13's dont know where you've been simonnowis but 13's with b18 motors is starting to get common

Quote:

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Originally Posted by markoJEK1

^ thats a pretty blatant and obvious fact there espcially about b18c7's running mid 13's dont know where you've been simonnowis but 13's with b18 motors is starting to get common

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a stock b18c7 cant easily run mid 13s, barefootbonzai's EK+B18c+ITB etc.. said he ran mid 13s. so ur saying with the b18c7 alone he can do mid 13s?
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...ight=b18c7+itb

heres a thread on some 1/4mile times, and all the b18c7 cars ran 14s
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...8c7+itb&page=2

any proof u have where ppl with stock b18c7's ran mid 13s?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by simonnowis

heres a thread on some 1/4mile times, and all the b18c7 cars ran 14s
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...8c7+itb&page=2

any proof u have where ppl with stock b18c7's ran mid 13s?

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:wave: We have done it twice in two different chasis. (EG and Dc2R) Two different B18c7 with the same bolt-on mods with ECU and tune.. Both did 13.6 with circuit semi slicks..can achieve low 13's with proper racing slicks

I never said a stock b18c , I understood you saying that a b18 cannot get 13's what so ever hence my saying what i did

Quote:

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Originally Posted by simonnowis

a stock b18c7 cant easily run mid 13s, barefootbonzai's EK+B18c+ITB etc.. said he ran mid 13s. so ur saying with the b18c7 alone he can do mid 13s?
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...ight=b18c7+itb

heres a thread on some 1/4mile times, and all the b18c7 cars ran 14s
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...8c7+itb&page=2

any proof u have where ppl with stock b18c7's ran mid 13s?

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mate also k20a doesn't automatically run 12s...bolt on with average driver = mid 13s max...

then how does yonas's eg with stock k24a with bolt on run 12s, ask him urself

Yonas k24 is modified... the motor is kinda stockish, but has the quality bolt-ons and tune. Yonas's car is very light and he runs it with proper slicks.

yonas has done over 400 passes and he weighs less than 40kg...

wow off-topic...

firstly to OP, if fuel is your concern then a 12s car isn't

B16b would be the better option if you can get it significantly cheaper for obvious insurance/engineering/rego reasons... get b18c crank/rods later when you can afford it as they will go straight in a b16b block

insurance wise dsp is right the insurnace companies wouldn't know the difference, but an ek4 is $2k for full insurance anyway.

In relation to engineering, a b18 would be around $650
pm me if you want the details

Quote:

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Originally Posted by simonnowis

a stock b18c7 cant easily run mid 13s, barefootbonzai's EK+B18c+ITB etc.. said he ran mid 13s. so ur saying with the b18c7 alone he can do mid 13s?
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...ight=b18c7+itb

heres a thread on some 1/4mile times, and all the b18c7 cars ran 14s
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...8c7+itb&page=2

any proof u have where ppl with stock b18c7's ran mid 13s?

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as said we ran mid 13's quite easy with bolt-on on a b18c7. With slicks possible high 12's if not low 13's. I remember seein a MELB EG with b18c with bolt ons(quality products) running high 12's with slicks.

SO YES ITS POSSIBLE.....

As for k20 swap in civics, don't be shock if it runs mid 13's to low13's.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by simonnowis

any proof u have where ppl with stock b18c7's ran mid 13s?

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with no mods and real everyday street tyres it isnt possible. high 13's yes but not much lower.
Once you chuck on stickier tyres and start putting mods on to let the engine breathe and work better THEN you see the "average" VTEC 1/4 mile every harps on about.
Point is , name me anyone here with a stock b18c7/c (no bolt on or engine mods) in a eg hatch that is running "13's". I hope to hit high 13's but thats it.

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Originally Posted by connorling

nothing beat displacement
thats all i have to say

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u should get a ford mate...

my 2cents

B18c, basically coz its a 1.8 dude... will go harder!
also isnt the B16b and B18C relatively the same jus 1.6 and 1.8? more torque etc.. and prices are similar also... get the bang for ur buck.

B18C ftw!

so, in regards about this

whats the power comparison between b16b against b18c2 (GSR/VTIR)?

b18c2 makes 125kw , 175NM.
B16b makes 137kw , 160 NM.
The b18c2 makes its peak torque 800rpm earlier , equates to a more useable power band in real life terms

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bennjamin

b18c2 makes 125kw , 175NM.
B16b makes 137kw , 160 NM.
The b18c2 makes its peak torque 800rpm earlier , equates to a more useable power band in real life terms

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:thumbsup: thx

Doesn't the B16B cost nearly as much as the B18C7 anyway? Last time i checked on akmotorworkz price was pretty similar, so basically there is no reason to get a B16B!

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Originally Posted by NightKids

Doesn't the B16B cost nearly as much as the B18C7 anyway? Last time i checked on akmotorworkz price was pretty similar, so basically there is no reason to get a B16B!

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that's because b16b is very rare.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Benson

Yonas k24 is modified... the motor is kinda stockish, but has the quality bolt-ons and tune. Yonas's car is very light and he runs it with proper slicks.

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Off topic here :My k24a is stock euro motor , stock euro cams + valve springs . The only thing from ITR DC5R is 50 degree VTC + y2m3 dc5r gearbox.
JDMyard IM , 80mm TB , JDMyard header , 3 inch catback + kpro


Power to weight ratio FTW.
911kg EG hatch


Get B18c7 , you wont regret it

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Originally Posted by EG5

Power to weight ratio FTW.
911kg EG hatch

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*off topic*

Indeed. A big factor on your engines performance is the weight of the car :) With basic weight reduction i have got my EG hatch from 1040 to 980kg. But 911 is ALOT out :)

If yonas could do it, he would drill holes in his legs to save weight.

i have recently installed a b18c2 into my lil eg hatch and i just went to the nsw rta with a normal blueslip and got it registered no problems. u dont need to get an engineering certificate for an engine thats within 15% of the engine capacity, so in this case for a standard 1.6L conversion to a 1.8L the max u can go upto is 1828.5cc,

bottom line go b18c, register it and rip it up ;)

thats right all u need is a blue slip