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Hey guys,
just took my car for a drive for the first time with the new clutch and its grabbing really close to the floor.
is the any adjustments for the MC, SC or clutch pedal??
I'll bled the system more as well to see if thats the problem.
any help is appreciated.
thanks guys
jase
perhaps the pedal itself needs to be adjusted. you can loosen the pad slightly , otherwise look at a good long bleed session with a freidn to make sure all fresh fluid is running thru the master-slave setup
check your pedal adjustment
make sure there is a bit off freeplay before the clutch disengagement begins when you put your foot down.to make sure the pedal is not riding at all,wearing your clutch out.
to my knowledge there is no adjustment for the master or slave cylinder....other than going ghetto and altering the lengths of the rods in them.i wouldn't recommend this
u shouldnt really have to adjust a hydro clutch
if a good bleed doesnt sort it out,u can adjust the push rod on the master cylinder.get up underneath your dash & u'll see the pushrod attached to the pedal.undo the nut on the pushrod & u can then turn the pushrod in & out,to lengthen or shorten.u might have to backoff the pedal stop screw to wind it out.
thanks guys,
i stuck my head up under the dash last night and found the the nuts/bolts that look like the adjust the clutch pedal.
I'll have fiddle with those tonight and get my mrs to help bleed the clutch more.
:thumbsup:
I'd do what CRXer said. Bleed it first. If bleeding doesn't help, then adjust the pushrod.
sounds like the pedal adjuster... someitme su have to adjust it for a new clutch.. Else bleed the slave....Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonGilholme
That is all you can do.. else your MC is goneski:thumbsup: (least least likily)
Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
No way do this first.. first adjust your clutch pedal..
if you havent leaked any fluids or opened you fluid system this would be 90% change waste of time
If the car came from the factory with the perfect push rod adjustment, then it shouldn't change unless you have a leaking master/slave cylinder. Bleeding the clutch takes under 3 minutes on a b16a. Always do the simplest fix first. I'm not asking him to change his entire clutch fluid, just bleed a few mls out to ensure that there isn't any air in the line.Quote:
Originally Posted by BlitZ
yeah it came from factory.. then you get a new clutch (OEM? hd? ACt? god knows), bearings and maybe a machined flywheel which will alter the contact distance..Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
adjusting is for free, bleeding the fluids cost money..
And as stated "..then it shouldn't change unless you have a leaking master/slave cylinder"... Why would this suddenly happen once a new clutch is in? coincidence?
I keep a spare bottle just in case I need it. Anyway, hopefully the pushrod adjustment solves his problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by BlitZ
I'll bleed it more first as i've got a bottle and a half of brake/clutch fluid left.
if that doesn't make a change i'll start to alter the pedal. :thumbsup:
Which release plate and clutch did you get?Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonGilholme
http://www.competitionclutch.com/ind...ocation=clutch
Stage 4 Kit - including flywheel, pressure plate, friction disc, release bearing, pilot bearing and alignment tool.
It is double sprung, so there should be a very small window for the friction point... All the best, hope that you solve the problem in the end.
yeah i'm sure it will be ok. I'm not too concerned about the window of engagement. more so that its soo close to the floor which i'm not used to.
If i can adjust the pedal a little bit then great. if i can't then i'll just have to adjust myself instead.