Integra Resonator Removal

Hi all;

I originally used to take the cap off my airbox on my DC2 Type R for that mad induction noise but could not help ignore the fact that it was sucking in hot air.

So I removed the front bar one day and painfully removed the resonator.

Now have the cap on the airbox; and it is sucking in air from the bottom of the airbox where it used to run to the resonator.

Still must suck in hot air; though not as much.

Now it coming on to winter; on a cold night I think the power has increased.

Though on a hot day; you can feel it lag at low speeds in traffic from the heat soak.

My question - does anybody know of any piping that I can run from the bottom of the airbox to a colder location?

Ive tried everywhere! Clark rubber; bunnings - they dont have what Im looking for!

I understand that the ideal solution is to buy a CAI; but one of my aims is to keep the engine bay & car looking stock and original.

Any thoughts?

Where do u plan to run the pipe anyway? I took away my resonator too, from what i am looking at, its sorta like a semi CAI already. IMHO, i think we dont need a pipe as now it is a good balance between a CAI and a SRI. Slightly longer but still has the ram effect of the SRI and not sucking in totally hot air which is the effect of the CAI.

What is SRI? is it Short Ram Intake?

If so - what is it? and why is it good?

If the pipe is shorter does it mean better induction? Is that why the Mugen intake is better than the Injen?

I always thought that cold air combusts better - hence it is always better to have a cold air intake (CAI)

I was thinking of running a pipe down to the bottom of the front bar.

Short ram has the pod (usually exposed) inside the engine bay.

A Injen CAI sucks in cooler air, but is less responsive than the SRI because of longer piping - and visa versa.

And the SRI acts like a mini turbo that rams more air into you engine. So CAI sucks cold air. SRI sucks "more" or rams more air into you engine. So now with ur setup, its kinda like a mix of both.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by vincikwan

And the SRI acts like a mini turbo that rams more air into you engine.

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No it doesn't.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by vincikwan

And the SRI acts like a mini turbo that rams more air into you engine. So CAI sucks cold air. SRI sucks "more" or rams more air into you engine. So now with ur setup, its kinda like a mix of both.

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Acts like a mini turbo?

That would imply that there is a turbine somewhere.

The SRI sucks more hot air into the engine than the CAI, but is more responsive comparitivly as stated above.

Thats all.

another "pros and cons of sri against cai" thread.

Mate, if your resonator is removed, Dont even bother running a longer pipe to a cooler location, all that will do is slow air to your engine and could affect your engine. Remember a cai piping is not much longer than the bottom of the box, the resonator removal makes that pipe go just into the hole, the cai piping normally doesnt go much further than that, but the filter makes it obviously a bit lower. Dont bother running longer piping anywhere!

Honestly, with a resonator removed, thats all you need. If you dont want a sri or cai, get a quality panel filter. k and n are good, they can be cleaned when dirty and last a shit lot longer than stock. the "apparently" allow better flow (i disagree as you wouldnt notice against stock) and allow FAR better filteration. If you want a stock engine bay, leave the resonator off and invest in a kandn filter. Best option I can reccomend for you.

ACTS LIKE not IS a mini turbo in the sense that it sucks more air in. No turbine at all.

^It doesnt suck more air in - works the same as a CAI - only shorter.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Elwood

^It doesnt suck more air in - works the same as a CAI - only shorter.

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And hotter.

Here's what I did, 4in/100mm flexible tube from Clark Rubber
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...light=cold+air

Doesn't act like one either. Turbo forces air in with large amounts of pressure. SRI or CAI is only sucking air into the engine.

because it is shorter in length then the CAI, the SRI increases the pressure of air. Well, there will be no end to this debate...So i guess anything goes

Quote:

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Originally Posted by FAT VTI

the "apparently" allow better flow (i disagree as you wouldnt notice against stock) and allow FAR better filteration.

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If you test an OEM filter against a K&N with test dust, you'll find more dust going through the K&N and into your engine.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by aaronng

If you test an OEM filter against a K&N with test dust, you'll find more dust going through the K&N and into your engine.

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Where'd you find that from?
k&n say they have a 140% greater filteration than oem.

I see I see;

I guess the SRI Vs. CAI has been covered before; hence why this has been moved to noob section. lol.

I understand the pro's and cons of each one.

In summary I think its clear to say that out of all the intakes for the DC2 - Mugen is the winner (ignoring price that is - strictly on design and performance).

However; im thinking that during these colder months I'll leave the setup how it is and re-asess it when it starts to warm up.

So with the resonator removed the car DOES perform better than with it on?

I found that up at high Revs it did (like in VTEC), but at lower revs the pick up seemed a bit... down.

This is just butt dyno - is this the case? Or was it just a hot day?

Is the resonator there to muffle sound at the cost of decreased performance?

because if it is - I WILL LEAVE MINE OFF!!!!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by l3vnd1

I see I see;

I guess the SRI Vs. CAI has been covered before; hence why this has been moved to noob section. lol.

I understand the pro's and cons of each one.

In summary I think its clear to say that out of all the intakes for the DC2 - Mugen is the winner (ignoring price that is - strictly on design and performance).

However; im thinking that during these colder months I'll leave the setup how it is and re-asess it when it starts to warm up.

So with the resonator removed the car DOES perform better than with it on?

I found that up at high Revs it did (like in VTEC), but at lower revs the pick up seemed a bit... down.

This is just butt dyno - is this the case? Or was it just a hot day?

Is the resonator there to muffle sound at the cost of decreased performance?

because if it is - I WILL LEAVE MINE OFF!!!!

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Resonator is there to muffle the noise hence why its illegal to remove.

As for what is the best TBH its a big gimmick IMO. Its just saying how many different way can you bend a pipe and put a brand sticker on it,filteration is more important. sorry to offend all the people who spent 300+ on intake .

Without a resonator, basically you get a louder noise normally around vtec and higher revs. As for performance gains....I doubt you could tell, there would be a great deal of different, It may cut the travel time for the air to get to the engine but it would be quite minimal in terms of the gain .
It would be like taking out your sub and feeling a difference.
Leave it off mate, far better without it IMO. The only reason its there is to quiten down your car, so im guessing you don't want that.

It wouldnt of hurt to clean your inner guard (plastic). Get rid of some of that dirt as it'll prob end up in ur filter.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by vincikwan

because it is shorter in length then the CAI, the SRI increases the pressure of air. Well, there will be no end to this debate...So i guess anything goes

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Maybe, but this is countered by the vast amounts of scorching hot air being pulled into the engine.

Thats y i said what he is having now is a good balance.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by l3vnd1

Hi all;

I originally used to take the cap off my airbox on my DC2 Type R for that mad induction noise but could not help ignore the fact that it was sucking in hot air.

So I removed the front bar one day and painfully removed the resonator.

Now have the cap on the airbox; and it is sucking in air from the bottom of the airbox where it used to run to the resonator.

Still must suck in hot air; though not as much.

Now it coming on to winter; on a cold night I think the power has increased.

Though on a hot day; you can feel it lag at low speeds in traffic from the heat soak.

My question - does anybody know of any piping that I can run from the bottom of the airbox to a colder location?

Ive tried everywhere! Clark rubber; bunnings - they dont have what Im looking for!

I understand that the ideal solution is to buy a CAI; but one of my aims is to keep the engine bay & car looking stock and original.

Any thoughts?

---

i was gonna take mine off too. just wanted to know if vtec louder without the resonator?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by FAT VTI

Where'd you find that from?
k&n say they have a 140% greater filteration than oem.

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http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest3.htm
Pics are not loading for me, but the text is still there.

Most filters that advertises an increased air flow will have poorer filtration unless the surface area is increased. Same surface area = filter media with bigger pores = more fine dust let through. I work in the filtration industry btw.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by hui

i was gonna take mine off too. just wanted to know if vtec louder without the resonator?

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Oh yeah - definately.

You can also hear the difference in sound with how much throttle you apply.

With the stock setup - at 3K rpm if you put 50% throttle or 100% throttle; you cant hear the difference.

Now you can hear a deep drone when you apply full throttle over parial throttle at lower revs.

Feel more in-tune with the engine.

kool... will take it out soon. is there alot of work involved?

Sadly yes -

Front bar needs to be removed.

BTW - I didnt know that having the resonator off was illegal?

I just thought that your air filter had to be enclosed in a box - thats all.

Either way; nobody can tell if they open the bonnet.

Get a hacksaw & saw open the resonator box. Retrieve the "J" pipe that attaches to your airbox. = Problem solved,no need to get tubing or piping to attach to your oem airbox. ;)

^ that wat i did =]. but then i put a pipe from the front bar to the J pipe =P

you can go to autobarn adn buy a CAI tubing. $20ish.

I installed it leading from my front bumper straight into my stock airbox/pod filter. held on by quality tools - cable ties. lol

edit:

coupled with my $2 funnel velocity stack lol for fun

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x...i-IMG_9728.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Spoon SiRG

Get a hacksaw & saw open the resonator box. Retrieve the "J" pipe that attaches to your airbox. = Problem solved,no need to get tubing or piping to attach to your oem airbox. ;)

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I tried that first and found it was too restrictive. The j pipe is smaller diameter than the "airbox to throttle body" pipe so is worth enlarging the hole and larger tube.
There's a reason why Mugen cai is larger and more direct.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by l3vnd1

Sadly yes -

Front bar needs to be removed.

BTW - I didnt know that having the resonator off was illegal?

I just thought that your air filter had to be enclosed in a box - thats all.

Either way; nobody can tell if they open the bonnet.

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your front bumper shouldn't need to be removed. You can do it by only taking off your inner guard which is about 4 screws and a rubber or 2 (alot less hassle!)

Resonator off as far as I am aware IS illegal.
Reason- you are taking off a factory part of your car that was put there to quiten down the car. As far as i am aware (someone might be able to provide better detail) is illegal in nsw.

araaong- I still have my doubts about oem having better filteration than k&n.
but i will agree to disagree.

Guy with the pipe down to his front bumper- its not only air coming through that $2 funnel. Its a shit lot of dust and possibly foreign objects. I wouldnt reccomend it especially in wet weather. Also, your filter will become filthier quicker which will affect your 'performance' of having cold air and probably your fuel economy.

no resonator is good enough if you do not want a cai. Dont bother running more pipes, the only alternative i reckon is to run a new pipe a bit further down, but even still it probably wouldnt be worth it as comparative gains to possible problems wouldnt see a great benefit.

Better yet - Just invested in a second hand mugen

The verdict - Linear improvement throughout the rev range!

Coming from a stock airbox assembly w/o the resonator I found the sound in VTEC to be (more vicious) that OEM however the induction noise down low more quiet.

All in all - pickup is excellent and my car now screams even more - Very impressed; well worth the money!

Only query is that of a slight whistling sounds at 25% - 50% throttle at low revs.

Why is this and is this normal????

Well done mate, and yes the whistle is normal at part throttle like you say. I have a Spoon in box filter and if I take the lid off I get it too.

Ah ok - thats cool.

Wonder why that is....

I guess with the Mugen & Spoon filters being made of different materials to OEM there must be a certain air velocity the resonates somehow. Actually if I take the lid off it whistles slightly all the way to redline under wide open throttle also.

LMAO @ everyone dissing him, cut him some slack

Another question - close to redline say 7800rpm - Redline I get a huge vibrating sound from my dash board area.

Like something is vibrating like crazy like resonating.

Is this normal? Kinda sounds cool but a bit extreme...

not normal at all, are your wheels balanced correctly? Otherwise could sound serious but I have no ideas yet

wheels?

Yeah of course - was not making this sound before I removed resonator.
Its not so much a vibration FEELING - I cant feel it.

Its just some thing vibrating making a loud noise due to the increased induction sound.

probably just vibration from the extra noise lol, that's why it had a resonator

hehehe yeah thoughts so - wanted to know if anyone else had experienced it.

Its sorta like a distinct audible shift signal. lol

funny enough i removed my resonator from my DC2R tonight and i could hear and feel a difference. the induction noise is a lot louder and when you accelerate the air rushing into the motor at high revs resonates and the floor vibrates. It feels like a racing car. Could not feel a power difference sadly

As to the filtration side of things. Oem will filter out more with less air flow. Where as k&n will filter less and have better air flow. Think about it to filter out more the material the air is flowing through has to have thicker fibres hence less air flow. It all makes sense if you put it in that matter

yeah it makes sense like that -

but thats not what K&N claim...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by l3vnd1

yeah it makes sense like that -

but thats not what K&N claim...

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No, K&N claims that an engine will run fine with 90% filtration efficiency when tested with test dust. http://knfilters.com/faq.htm#23

Paper filters usually reach 99% or higher. K&N filters have a cumulative efficiency of 96-99%, which means it starts at the low end of 96% and works its way up to 99% as the filter gets loaded with dirt. http://knfilters.com/efficiency_testing.htm

i was doing some reading and i found a book all about hondas. Its called "How to build HONDA horsepower with dyno-verified results". There was this interesting test on air intakes that i would like to share. So the following information is taken out if this book.

According to the book, CAI (cold air intake) provides better low down torque as compared to the SRI ( short ram intake). The CAI provides better HP and TQ all the way to VTEC point, where it starts to be the same as using the stock intake (as shown in the dyno test in the book). Whereas the SRI shows HP and TQ being the same as the stock intake before the VTEC point and it increases HP and TQ after the VTEC point.

The reason given is because the long piping of the CAI acts as a hinderance at higher RPMs while the short piping of the SRI creates a "ram" effect due to the shorted piping. But do not forget that SRI have a problem with heat soak. So the best intake system will be something like the Gruppe M's intake for the DC5R as it draws air from above the bonnet. Or the Iceman Comptech intake for the DC2R.

Of course, i'm not saying that this book is the bible and everyone should follow it. But its just my 2c worth of info for guys out there. I am sure not everyone will agree on this.

If thats true - how do you explain the 'flat spot' in the Injen CAI dyno sheet?