Sub Cuts Out.

Sooo every now and then i like to pump the music so ic ant hear my exhaust, or when im just in the mood for loud music.

anyway, usually when i pump it.
my sub just dies? all i got to do is turn the car off and turn it back on. then wa-la :)
i told my friend and he said it was because my sub was trying to get more power out of my amp, my amp cant handle so it turns off.

I thought it was right, bcos i got a cheap amp. "the boss" lol
im not to sure if its right, so i thought id get some ideas why it happens from you guys :)

Thanks in advance.

Your friend is right.

When ever the amp can't handle the power that is getting sent to it. It goes into 'Protect' and shuts itself of so it won't damage itself.

To make it so it doesn't happen, either:
- Upgrade amp (just for piece of mind having a good amp too).
- Turn gains down so it doesn't have to suck as much power (although it won't go as hard).
- Don't crank it for as long.

:)

Thanks hydie :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mattchuej8

Thanks hydie :)

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No problem. :thumbsup:

what are the specs of your amp and sub? in WRMS...

they say that its always best to have a little bit more powerful amp than a sub. eg:

Amp = 250WRMS
Sub = 200WRMS

If your headlights dim when the bass hits, the amp is suffering and you need a better amp.

my awful sony amp used to cut out and overheat all the time, replaced it with an audison, now the headlights dont dim, it never cuts out, and the bass is richer.

oh man.
my headlights do dim.
i saw it one morning driving to work. :(
i thought it was cool.

thanks all :)
well i have 500 max amp
400 rms sub

but its a low end brand amp so :( lol
new amp when i win lotto lo

might not just be the sub causing it,


make sure your ppower and ground is up to scratch too

The margin of your current amp and sub might be too little as cheaper amps tends to overstate their power output. If you can, try and get more reputable amps. They produce a more accurate power output. I generally have a rule for amps to be at least 1/2 or double in generating power for the subs.

So 400rms - 600/800rms amp

Also usually if something happens on your amp it will display the lights on it different. Just refer to the manual and it will tell you what the error was.

But if it was a real cheapo nvm

Quote:

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Originally Posted by EuroDude

If your headlights dim when the bass hits, the amp is suffering and you need a better amp.

my awful sony amp used to cut out and overheat all the time, replaced it with an audison, now the headlights dont dim, it never cuts out, and the bass is richer.

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What kind of sony amp were you running?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by hydie

Your friend is right.

When ever the amp can't handle the power that is getting sent to it. It goes into 'Protect' and shuts itself of so it won't damage itself.

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:confused: please explain that in plain english? amp can't handle the power its getting sent to it... from where?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by hydie

To make it so it doesn't happen, either:
- Upgrade amp (just for piece of mind having a good amp too).

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good point...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by hydie

- Turn gains down so it doesn't have to suck as much power (although it won't go as hard).

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what you really are meaning to say is, set the gains accordingly to what preout voltage the head unit is putting out and you won't send the amp into clip which inturn won't damage your speaker and ultimately won't make the speaker sound like total ass...

its got nothing to do with sucking of power mate... amps go into protection for certain reasons which are, overheating, clipped signals due to gains being turned up too high and the amp seeing DC, and poor battery/ground connections (current protection)...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by hydie

- Don't crank it for as long. :)

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now thats total BS hahahahaha only time i've turned my system down (when it was in the car) was when i got a head ache from too much lows or highs, i've never had a system sh!t itself from being cranked when everything is set properly...

look up www.bcae1.com and do some reading, you will be surprised what you can learn and pass on :)

btw, i haven't read the site, only visited it a few times for some calculations... i like most in the car audio industry are self taught and while in the industry have attended seminars and training days/nights... no schooling for it, just a lot of reading and practice also known as experimenting...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ICACHA

:confused: please explain that in plain english? amp can't handle the power its getting sent to it... from where?

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What that means is, the amp doesnt have enough power to supply to the sub. Rather than the amp trying to keep up with supplying power to the sub, it goes in to a shut down mode (or switches off), this is labeled as 'Protect' on most amps.

Few other causes....
Either amp is under powered, sub is on its way out coil is ****ed, or you got a dual voice coil sub and have it wired incorrectly to suit your amp.
Some amps can't handle low impedence most should be able to do at least 2 ohm bridged if not its rubbish.
Undersized power cable can cause this too as your amp is drawing more current then your cable can handle.
Im old school use to have a lanzar opti drive good for even 1/2 ohm.

Cheers
EGJOE

welll.. turn it up look at ur amp... if ur amps turning off... a good and very common problem is the standard battery can not supply current to the amp.. and the amp just turns off.. lol.. mine still does that with 2 PC 2150s.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by EuroDude

If your headlights dim when the bass hits, the amp is suffering and you need a better amp.

my awful sony amp used to cut out and overheat all the time, replaced it with an audison, now the headlights dont dim, it never cuts out, and the bass is richer.

---

This is incorrect, The headlight dimming is due to current draw, the more current that is drawn by the amp the dimmer your light go because your battery and altenator cant supply sufficient power. Your altenator is probably rated at about 80amps and you get good mono amps which can draw anything from 80-120-150 and up into the thousands. A solution for this is a better battery, altanator or invest in a capacitor, general rule is a 1 farad capacitor per 1000w just as a guide.

Very simple, What type of sub and specs, What type of amp and model? measure the resistance of the sub with a multimeter and post up what it measures.


Thanks

1. check that the amp is powerful enough..
2. check your wiring is good...
3. check you have adequate ground wiring..


but most likely its a combination of wiring to small and amp not powerful enough...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mattchuej8

oh man.
my headlights do dim.
i saw it one morning driving to work. :(
i thought it was cool.

thanks all :)
well i have 500 max amp
400 rms sub

but its a low end brand amp so :( lol
new amp when i win lotto lo

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dont forget 500 max amp is different to 400 rms. rms is real power

cashys good place to start looking for another amp. i scored a decent lanzar opti drive for $100. Bargain!!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dirlok

What that means is, the amp doesnt have enough power to supply to the sub. Rather than the amp trying to keep up with supplying power to the sub, it goes in to a shut down mode (or switches off), this is labeled as 'Protect' on most amps.

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i'm not trying to be a smart arse here... but i wish a lot of people replying to posts/threads "actually" knew what they were talking about. that way people asking questions and those reading can actually learn something, but not the case here in the audio section. too many "i know's, i know's" and generally a lot of mis-information getting flung around...

its easy to back up with fact, go look at incar mags showing installs from shops and dont forget to read the sometimes bull shit articles of how long and how much... are they really installs or are they hiding a birds nest of wiring and dodgy workmanship under beauty panels? you be the judge of that...