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I have searched high and low for answers but have come up with nothing. I see there is a BFYB mod list for DC5 but there seems to be very little for the DC2R.
Can all the DC2R owners tell us their hit and/or miss stories.
Aem, Injen, GruppeM, etc
CAI, SRI
Lets keep it clean and flame free as some people dont want to spend $1000 for a CF housed intake, some feel CAI's are laggy, etc but lets here first hand accounts.
Cheers
stock intake with after market filter, k&n or spoon drop in
resonator removed of course
or mugen are my choices
Farrrk yeah, totally agreed!Quote:
Originally Posted by 90LAN
Due to the factory setup in the DC2R, you really can't improve too much on it.
All i did was dropped in a K&N replacement filter, it's practically a pod anyway!!
If you got some $$$ Mugen is the best intake mod for DC2...this is a common opinion
If no $$$ as said above remove resonator and fit a pod into your standard air box!
so the mugen is better than the INJEN?
Better is subject to interpretation.Quote:
Originally Posted by votek
More kw?
More torque?
Power delivery
Noise even..
Just keep oem setup and use the money elsewhere :)
well does it make more kw with a aftermarket ecu
does it more have torque
is it worth double the price tag?
yeh at the end of the day its jus an intake, why spend $$$ on a mugen filter or some other hardcore brand wen wat u get is jus more noise & looks then power gains.
i'd say stay oem, change filters perhaps and remove resonator box
For me Mugen is the best... i am using it with my car, and has made sure the pipping is facing my front inditcater(park light) so when i am at the track i take out my light :) and goes fairly hard!
Cheers Dave.
Yep exactly the same as above. However, do not use Spoon... Trust is the same, only half the price. Remove resignator, and duct 4 inch air con piping to front bar. It's a great mod tbh - on a budget. Otherwise... i'd def go with Mugen. I have used both set ups, plus a ingen. Mugen wins hands down for me.Quote:
Originally Posted by 90LAN
I have tried this also... If, you take the resignator out, you loose PWR and response. a big no no. This is where the pipe from the air box to the front bar comes in handy.Quote:
Originally Posted by TECDUP
injen is sick got it on mine - howls
mugen hands down best flow had it on my dc2r since i got it then wen i sold the car took it off made it stock it was totally noticalbe didnt rev as freely. but if u really have no dosh then get creative put somethin together.
anyone able to back up these statements with some figures? just think that thatd give some better indication as opposed to saying 'x intake' is better; and would make for a better analysis/discussion.
I HAD dyno sheets. But I have no idea where they are. If I recall, after a tune the DIY intake gave me 5kW ATW gain, Mugen 11kW ATW Gain, Ingen 3kW ATW.Quote:
Originally Posted by philBo
EDIT: It was before my ECU, so running stock ECU.
I'll try dig up the dyno sheets.
Did you do it all on the same day and on the same dyno ?Quote:
Originally Posted by VTECMACHINE
Yeah, it was at Bel quite a while ago... was a bit bored LOL. Good old Eric.
Get 4 little intakes!
yeah ftmfw :thumbsup::thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by barefootbonzai
I have J's Racing -- Happy with it , great noise and seems to be good for some top end.
Stock intake arm, bpi velocity stack, k&n air filter, stock airbox with a 4-5 inch custom cold air feed at the bottom coming from behind the indicator <-- I'm about to give this a go when my velocity stack arrives.
A lot of the power from the mugen intake supposedly comes from the velocity stack, so it seems like a good addition to the intake setup. I'll let you know how it goes
AGREE :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
Quote:
Originally Posted by barefootbonzai
KAAAACHING $$$$$$$$$$Quote:
Originally Posted by barefootbonzai
so the DIY stock piping is better than the INJEN?
From what Bel tried... yep.Quote:
Originally Posted by votek
I think it's an awsome intake. Just there is no bling bling of a shiny pipe in your engine bay.
I got the top of the line K&N fipk 57-3509 filter with the piping as well and once i got it the damn thing screamed like no tomorrow when i hit vtec and that was before my exhaust system... now it is even loudeerrrr =D
would definately recommend K&N fipk =D
got any dyno sheets to prove?
Did you ever run your car with the piping facing up?Quote:
Originally Posted by SHIFTY
Do you find any difference in feel or power between the two piping positions?
I think it would be quite marginal. Mugen designed the intake for the pipe to facing the other direction. But only a dyno would tell.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alfred_DC5R
Quote:
Originally Posted by VTECMACHINE
just to clarify, what you're saying is....remove the resonator and make sure to replace the restrictive small diameter plastic tubing with larger tube and custom fit from guard to airbox right?Quote:
Originally Posted by VTECMACHINE
Coz that's what I did, DIY Mugen, works great.
The pipe from intake mani to air box remains the same.
When you remove the resignator (big white box in right hand side guard), remove the small pipe that are attached the resignator aswell. Then from the bottom of the air box, attach 4 inch air con piping and then run the other end of the pipe to the front bar to duct cold air.
It's awsome.
a dyno wouldn't tell.. the whole idea of running without the park/indicator light is u get more air sucked in to ur intake the faster ur moving (more air being forced in) this doesn't happen when the car is still on a dyno....Quote:
Originally Posted by VTECMACHINE
and no i have only run it how i have it atm....
Ummm... yes it would happen on a dyno, and there is a powerful fan which is on producing cold air, which blast against the car, creating the "Same" amount of wind as when you were driving.Quote:
Originally Posted by SHIFTY
Trust me a Dyno, WILL tell you if the nossle facing either way, is either better or worse.
The amount of wind is a constant/controlled variable, and the facing the nossle towards or away from the guard - and measuring it will give you a good indication wheather it's better or not.
^^^ not true
A dyno fan is only enough to keep air flowing over the radiator ie centre of car, that is it's purpose, not nearly a simulation of real world track conditions. In order to test this intake theory somewhat accurately you would need a dyno placed in a wind tunnel testing facility.
True, it's not enough to simulate real life conditions, however it provides enough air, at a constant to test the difference between two variables (in this case the intake). There should be minimal difference but it should be noted on a Dyno graph.Quote:
Originally Posted by T-onedc2
I've run a Comptech Icebox before...was really happy with the design/sound etc. I have no way of know what sort of power it produced. It is a well designed air intake. This was on a VTI-R but...not sure if they do a DC2R one.
From memory she had a S100, Xforce headers + 2.5" Exhaust and the IceBox and she pulled 131~hp atw.
Dunno if the above helps : )
this has been covered a few times... and a lot of ppl say do this and do that... not worth spending a thousand bucks, etc.
do it right the first time... just get a mugen intake...
i have been driving my car stock as a rock bought second hand... come time to install my mugen, i realised that the previous owner actually removed the resonator box in stock intake... installed my mugen and response like no tomorrow! have had no regrets spending that thousand dollars...
and i'll have to dig up my dyno sheets, but compared to 'stock' and 'mugen', i got 5 kw atw extra. most importantly, response was heavily improved.
In all honesty, if your car is for the street, there is no point in spending thousands of dollars for an intake.Quote:
Originally Posted by dc2r
Not saying you don't track your car, but if you don't, and you simply checked the resignator box - by fitting a resignator box, you'd have pretty much the same response as the Mugen, and the power gains would be hardly noticable with out a dyno.
So if some people are NOT fussy, why waste "thousands".
PS: Mugen air boxs can be had for $700 - $750.
~$800 delivered from nengun
The sound alone is worth the money imo...
You forgot to add IMOQuote:
Originally Posted by VTECMACHINE
Many people, including myself wouldn't mind "wasting" the money on such a good product , you simply cannot replicate the Mugen's design (ie, smooth bends and correct diameter) with a cheap diy
..When I tell friends how much I spend on items for my car, they go omg, you are wasting your money. I just remind them how I used to spend the money and then they agree --- 'Wasting' money is relative from one person to another - $1000 is cheap for a product that gives you a warm fuzzy feeling if you earn good $$.
At the end of the day -- If it makes you feel good, just buy it. Because if it doesn't, you'll end up replacing it anyway. Basically agree with the guy above, do it right the first time how you would ideally want it. If you are on a hard budget, then you shouldn't be 'wasting' the money on cars in the first place - There is no finish line with modification :)
Agree!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by ewendc2r
It never ends... :p
That is very true. I myself have had a mugen air box for a few years now, and I love it.Quote:
Originally Posted by T-onedc2
But I was getting at... for the street, who needs that extra 2kw's for an extra $500 or so.