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Just thought i'd post this here for people to see the possibilities:
http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...html#post19178
Specifically the Firestorm concept as well as the Torque Master.
Also this video is proof that inline capacitors (like nology and direct hits) as well as the pulstar plugs is proven technology:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=11ifKc805gk
the main thing i got from all that was the stock ignition system is still not far behind all this technology,with cheaper,simpler components & more reliable,cheaper consumables(ie spark plugs)
the car companies are getting more efficiency out of their engines just thru simple good cylinder head/valve design & engineering,something that doesnt wear out to the extent of a spark plug.
So stock motor=stock ignition + recommended spark plugs
If u want to go playing with your aspiration or cylinder head/valve design then u are throwing yourself into the complex science of igniting whats going on in there with ignition system/spark plug selection,something that is probably quicker & easier to overcome with just plain experience rather than science.
its good to see however,thats theres people like this(with obviously a lot of time on their hands) keeping all those new rubbish technologies honest.
yep true.. to both of you.
i was bored and um... i was tryna... justify... why.. i bought the pulstars *cries* :( i had money sitting around waiting for the right cams to pop up for purchase anywhere... thought i could spare the $140 for now if it did in fact pay itself off after around 15,000Km
i just wanna see if i can get 450km per 40l out of my car.. getting close though ~400km atm...
then i came across those, just thought at least the torque master was an interesting concept and that the dude with the firebird got the car running to 33mpg from 23mpg using the firestorm.
yeah i came across a few of those reviews though AFTER i bought them... but what got me was the "independent tests" like:Quote:
Originally Posted by claymore
http://www.pulstarplug.com/pdf/Modified_April2008.pdf
http://www.pulstarplug.com/pdf/DSport_March2008.pdf
true.. the Aurion v6 is proof :) :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by CRXer
***EDIT***
in the defense of Pulstars though i have personally witnessed the nology leads produce a healthy 4hp thoughout most of the rev range on an sr20, same car same dyno same day.... i was hoping the pulstars would do the same.. or AT LEAST the increased mileage (oh please God!!)
but just quietly..........
we all here know the sr20 is old technology,they gotta pump it fulla boost to get it moving *hides from SSS owners on this very forum*
u wont get much gains out of your efficient honda technology ron,or maybe when u go messing with said honda tech. like u are those pulstars might just come to life,who knows,certainly not me...........
yeah i was noticing slowly honda engines don't react to mods the same way some other engines do, quite efficient indeed... i love it but the B16 is a ghEy nugget!!! :angel: just need my cams damn it!!Quote:
Originally Posted by CRXer
lets just hope i realise some mileage gains and my coil doesn't kill em within 5mins use.. the poofteenth extra horsepower would be a bonus, otherwise my dads camry or corolla would actually benefit from them.
they dont react to bolt ons as well,but the experienced are getting some punch out of internal mods,but to the degradation of hondas drivability/efficiency/power philosophy,u just get the power alone instead.
B20 block ftw:thumbsup:
stop stuffing around with things which 'may' improve performance ron :p
b18/b20 block it! you know you want some more capacity ;)
i can't *cries* wanna keep it legit and prob free.. dnt wanna have to engineer b20.. got scarred from spending another $600 on top of the $1k i spent previously upgrading it only to return my exhaust system to stock spec just to pass a noise & emissions test >:|
but i am in the market for a b18c2 block if one comes up before my cams arrive and i start pulling stuff apart.... my block is gone i think.. 180psi on cyl 3 and leaking a lot of water in it, had to regap plugs to 0.8mm just to get it to stabilise and not misfire :( most probably head gasket anyway. If it's the block then i'll take my time and seriously look into a b18b2 block instead.
BUT... i just ordered some Buddy Club Spec III+ cams... i hope the "massive low-mid peak gains" isn't just honda-tech hype... hopefully i can also start realising a true benefit in the light fly i invested in.
i'll have my bc cams in soon.. i'll let you know how it goes :p
Just do a b20 bottom end :P.....I told you about the b16a block i have. If your keen swing me a pm.Quote:
Originally Posted by dsp26
if you aint getting over 400 per tank ron there is other issues to look at.
what thermostat/fanswitch ? what tyre psi ? toe/alignment ok ? fuel filter clear? etc etc.
stop procrastinating lol
lol then heres the stats if something can be figured out from it but I already know what your gonna say :p wanna help me pull my engine apart? I'm a bit iffy about actually starting it myself :(Quote:
Originally Posted by bennjamin
Thermostat: Low temp
Fan switch: Buddy Club (Low Temp)
Tyre PSI: 38psi @ 205/50/15
Toe: 0F/0R
Camber: -1.5F/-1R
Fuel Filter: Changed 10k km ago...
vinnY: i haaaaAAAAaaate you!!! :p jkz.. the BC3+ better be good!! lemme know when you get em in.
***EDIT***
actually hang on.. whose this "Dan's Data" fellow supposed to be?
just some opinionated geek which seems to know his stuff
been reading his letters for years and never fails to entertain
not that it benefits me in anyway but then i should ask since i've already 'invested' in them... would I be doing the community a favour by doing a controlled fuel test say over 3months as well as back to back dyno same day?Quote:
Originally Posted by vinnY
you can if you want to
won't beat a bigger block though :p
Do you know what temperature do the thermostat and fan switch activate at? If your coolant stays cool, then the engine is probably thinking that it is still cold and applies the EFI equivalent of auto-choke.Quote:
Originally Posted by dsp26
read that somewhere... cluster gauge has it sitting in the same spot as stock but but thermo opens at 85°C and buddy club fan switch i think activates at i think 72°C.Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
Better than the other way around i think since the thermo regulates the engine temp anyways. I got the low temp stuff in anticipation of at least 11:1CR and running a bit leaner for when i get tuned which still hasn't happened more than 6mths later :/
your car will still be in warm up mode man. that's why your chewin the juice.
so thermo out? and fan switch = ok?Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonGilholme
yeah i think so.
just be careful that your fan won't be on 100% of the time.
both out ron
this is going a bit off topic but ah well,
my stockish calibration has got coolant temp corrections of like +20% fuel open loop,high load at up to 76 degrees C,so id say that would be fairly similar with the stock honda calibration.
also on these cold nights,my temp gauge with sender mounted in top radiator hose is seeing up to 13 degC less then actual coolant temp according to the ECT,prob due to cold air flow over the sender unit.So do your readings on a warm day if reading off a gauge.