Hi all,
I recently purchased a DC5, the engine has done just over 120,000km.
Just wondering which oil viscosity you'd recommend for my engine?
Cheers.
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Hi all,
I recently purchased a DC5, the engine has done just over 120,000km.
Just wondering which oil viscosity you'd recommend for my engine?
Cheers.
10W-30 Honda FEO for street use. Cheap and plentiful.
Plenty of threads about oil about too.
Yeah, I figured there would be, but I did a search for DC5 oil and found nothing :(Quote:
Originally Posted by chargeR
I use 10-70
And my car is puffing white smoke.
Which I've been told is a sign of a good healthy engine.
But seriously do a search, its been discussed over and over again.
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=93623
Hey Chi, yeah I use 10-70 as well. Assuming you're using Penrite Syn?
You need to use 4 letters minimum. So DC5* oil* would have given you results.Quote:
Originally Posted by encode
What engine oil do you recommend for a non Type R DC5, with about 130,000 kms? My cousin has the Special Edition. Which I believe has the K20A3 engine.
He's currently running Castrol Magnatec 10W40, which I recommended as it seems to be a ok engine oil that seems to work. Also he hasn't had any problems with it.
However I was thinking of trying Penrite HPR 5 next, which is a 5W40 full synthetic. What are your thoughts people? Do you guys think a DC5 would benefit from a full synthetic oil?
http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/onl...id=14911#Combo
Stick to the 10w 40.Quote:
Originally Posted by vs2306
DC5's from factory came with a 10w30 or 10w40 rating so i would not go any thinner (such as a 5w)
I run HPR5 in alot of K series with no issues at all. With the sort of mileage you have I would lean towards HPR10
Hmmm I've heard good things mixed things about HPR10. Mostly good though. But I'm a bit concerned that 50 might be too thick. For those of you who have used HPR10, do you think it would be better than Magnatec; despite being thicker?Quote:
Originally Posted by stndrd
I use it almost everyday in high kilometer K series with no issues. When me or my customers go racing, I use a 15W50.
Also you cant compare magnatec to HPR. It's like comparing milk to wine
In My experience - A guy who changes his own oil.
I use Motul in my DC5R. 200, 000KMS on motor. Pump is on its way I think.
5w - Kept good Temps etc, but oil pressure suffered heavy.
10w - Best of both worlds, oil pressure suffers only in between 900 - 1200 RPMS
15w will be what I try next probs back to penrite. Penrite did me well when i was playing wit B series.
Idunno if this is a placebo effect. Using S2k Filter - Low RMP low pressure has increased. Only will drop around heavy corners in High g's.
u can feel oil pressure?
cot dam m8 my hero
he might have gauge m8
dont tell me what he mite have m8Quote:
Originally Posted by EKVTIR-T
ill cap ya
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/customa...ar11984_26.gif
gauge mate. I've been measuring.
not just that. K20 if the oil pressure drops too much, then the VTC actuator wont be on the angle requested by ECU.
So Cam Actuals vs Cam requested will be off.
And you will be able to hear/feel this from the driver seat.
This is highly noticeable at lower RPM range.
Cam angles requested by stock ECU is towards max and that mechanical oil pump.
i've used
Honda Feo (Standard & Fully Synthetic)
Royal Purple 10w-40
Motul 300V 10w -40 (Current)
I do track work about 4-6 times a year, i noticed when i swapped from FEO to Royal Purple, my oil temperature wasn't getting as high as quickly with the Royal Purple but also i wasn't burning as much Oil.
Again, once i swapped to 300V, temperatures weren't rising as quickly but also it feels like the engine revs more freely but this could just by me.
I may consider a new oil once my motor is built but at this stage very happy with 300V just it's exxxy as f*ck
Cheers guys!
I'll try and convince my cousin to try HPR 10, for his next oil change. Hopefully it'll be on special when the time comes. Coz its not much more than magnatec.
http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/onl...id=14912#Cross
Do u guys reckon HPR 10 will make a difference in the first oil change? Or will it take 2 or 3 oil changes, for the engine to adjust to HPR 10 and make full use of it?
When you make the change, I recommend using an engine oil flush additive as this will speed up the change over between the oils and help the motor quicker
What about engine coolant for DC5's? I know there are certain fluids that must be Genuine Honda, such as Power Steering Fluid and Transmission Fluid. Is coolant one of the fluids that should also be genuine?
I use Green coolant with no issues day in day out.
Also there is aftermarket options for power steering fluid & gearbox oil
Cool thanks. I think my cousins DC5 has green coolant, doesn't seem to be causing any trouble so far.Quote:
Originally Posted by stndrd
I'm pretty sure ATF has to be genuine honda (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automat...Current_fluids). AFAIK, Honda hasn't given/sold the patent rights for their ATF to other oil companies. I know most oil companies lube guides, such as Castrol; will recommend their ATF, but that doesn't mean its compatible.
As for power steering fluid, Penrite have something on their website (http://www.penriteoil.com.au/product...d_products=158). But I haven't seen it at the typical retailers such as supercheap auto, auto barn, bursons, etc.
But if anyone has used any aftermarket ATF's on their DC5. Feel free to share.
I have used Penrite ATFMHP & ATFFS in many auto Honda's with no issues
Any particular brand flush additive?Quote:
Originally Posted by stndrd
I use Wurth, but they all do the same
I've used Nulon before (http://www.nulon.com.au/products/Eng.../#.U3CAYShdBq4). But thinking of trying Liqui Moly (http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/onl...156709#Reviews).Quote:
Originally Posted by cbauto
I use Liquid Moly. Even engine treatment.
Used it 4 times already. Pretty happy with the product.
Since most engine wear occurs when the engine is cold (first minutes after starting) I use a 5W oil.
At the moment I'm running Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40. But the 5W-30 would probably be a tad better (costs more too).
Both are within Honda's specs.
I hope you arent giving your car a hard time.Quote:
Originally Posted by 02DC5R
Cos them oils you have mentioned aren't in the K20 specs. Too thin.
OK, I have to admit. Sometimes I thrash her a little. I've even been known to bounce her off the rev limiter :)
But seriously, check out the workshop or owners manual (page 192). 0W-30 to 15W-40 and everything in between is within Honda's recommended specs. You pick depending on ambient temperatures.
I know you know this. But for those that don't.... that first number before the W is the viscosity at low temp on start up.
That's in the morning, when she's been sitting overnight and the engine is stone cold. Most of the oil has trickled down to the sump overnight. And there is only a very thin layer clinging to the moving parts. That's when they say most engine wear takes place. That's when I want the oil to flow as fast as possible, and protect the engine in those first few minutes as she's warming up. That's why I pick 5W. I can even see the sense in going down to 0W if you live in a cold place (this would be overkill in Brissy).
3 minutes after start-up, she's at normal operating temperature. That's when the second number kicks in. 30 or 40 or whatever you run. Both 30 & 40 as a second number offer pretty good protection at normal operating temps for this type of engine. At normal operating temps the oil pump is providing a healthy film of fast flowing oil, and those metal parts are gliding over each other with little to no contact.
That's why I run 5W40, but would probably (happily) run 5W30.
This maybe fine when the engine is new. Not worn by 12 years of love :).Quote:
Originally Posted by 02DC5R
As she gets older, story changes abit. Pretty sure you agree.
Also picking your oil in australia based on ambient temp is not that important. Please try test this yourself. Cos I've, No real start up issue found going in between 5w - 10w - 15w. Only just that 5 comes up to operating temp fastest. My engine which has 207,xxx KM feels alot better on 15w-70 penrite then on purple royal 5w-30, Comes up to operating temp within 2-3 minutes or of granny driving. From memory wasn't factory recommended 10w-30.
Must pick oil based on your engines condition. Thicker oil maybe required in engines that have a few more k's.
using thicker oil based on kms travelled alone sounds ignorant lol
I would never use 70 in honda
Quote:
Originally Posted by mocchi
Amant r u okQuote:
Originally Posted by EKVTIR-T
You have a good point. Engine condition and wear should definitely be taken into account when you select an oil.
And allot of people go thicker as engines get more miles on them.
I can't always hear or feel the difference between synthetic oils (I can't hear or feel the difference between running a 5W40 and 10W30).
So I rely on the specs from the manufacturer's, and what other people are saying.
But I am told the cheaper mineral based oils (say a cheap and nasty 20W40 Kmart brand $8 for 4 litres :) ) can make some engines quieter.
But this isn't necessarily a good thing (drowning the moving parts in thick ooze is not necessarily good lubrication).
I thought the Penrite 70W oil was designed for tappet and pushrod 1970s V8sQuote:
Originally Posted by EKVTIR-T
Didn't know they made a 15W70. If I had a 351 Ford XC Cobra V8, that's the oil I'd be running !
I've run 0w and 15w on occasion and the 0 comes up to pressure quicker (noticeable but not significant IMO) going by the oils pressure gauge plumbed into a sandwich plate at the filter
10w40 ~!