Does anyone know where it is.
Help ASAP plz.
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Does anyone know where it is.
Help ASAP plz.
Are you looking for drain bolt on the block?
It's on top left of oil filter. Not exactly the top, but around there.. I saw it in the manual.
Thanks Twing,I'll go check!
isn't the drain bolt on the radiator [white little plastic wing nut on the bottom]??????
Theres a drain plug on the radiator (plastic, can be turned by hand) and theres sometimes a place on the block to drain the coolant thats in the block and lower then the botom radiator hose.
Yes twing that's it,thank U.What a bitch to do but do-able..
I didn't bother this time.How much more comes out of the block after the radiator? I ran the a/c on hot for 30 seconds before draing the radiator.
I took the 2 big hoses off the back but very little came out.
Also,I will be changing the automatic transmission fluid.I know where to drain it and I can fill it through the dipstich hole with ben's funnel and tube set-up but is there a bolt I take off to measure how much ATF to put in. i.e it when it starts to trickle out the hole,stop.
I never take that bolt out. It's too hard core :p
When changing the coolant I just follow the manual to take the bolt on the radiator off.
It gets most of the the coolant, not all. I don't think there is much coolant left in the cylinder head. maybe < 1 ltr.
The manual says total coolant capacity is 3.8 for D16 engine. Last time I pour in a bit over than 3 ltre.. So it will be .8 ltr left.
Do it more frequent, so that the old one eventually be out from the cooling system.
haha,yeah I found it,then it took me 10 minutes to find it again and I was like Fark that :)
But mine only took 2 to 2 1/2 Litres,not exactly sure...
you'll have to fill it up more once its run for a bit. probably got an air pocket :thumbsup:
you're meant to idle it to heat it up without the cap on the radiator and the air should come out.
Beeza, The automatic transmission dipstich has the Upper & lower mark. Just fill up slowly and use the dipstich to measure until it reach the upper mark.
just do it the way the book says to, drain the plastic screw in the rad. enough said and flush twice with distilled water and add 3ish Litres of Honda OEM Fluid, just did mine to the D16Y8, don't bother stuffing around looking for a block drain bolt, even Honda don't do it that way, lol
important tip, after filling it completely the rad and reserve, only turn the cap once not twice and leave it idle for awhile (on cold mine took 15mins to kick the thermo fan) then quickly add more coolant to the rad ad required, I didn't need much at all. The turn to the two clicks and check for leaks. Do a very brief trip, around the block and your laughing
MOST important tip...
before draining coolant turn your temp switch all the way to HOT. This opens the heater core to the coolant system and lets you flush all coolant/air out.
x2 ^ that too, even after two flushes I still had a lil bit of old crap in there, but at least 80% is new fluid
Thanks guys.I did all of the above except flush it out.I let it idle for a good 20-25 minutes and squeezed the hoses a bit to get all the air out of the syste.It took 3 liters aswell not 2 - 2 1/2 lires like I thought sincs the coolant bottles are 5 Liters not 4.
How hard is it to get the oil filter out under the intake manifold there on the y4?
easy.
get te right tool to loosen it off and then you can hand loosen it off.
Cheers ben.Will a standard oil filter wrench do the job do you know?
sure. use one like this with a ratchet
http://toolmonger.com/wp-content/upl...r%20Wrench.jpg
Ah cool,I'll use the standard one this time and see how hard it is.If it's hard/tricky,I'll buy that cool looking spider doovie :)
It dosen't look like it would grip an oil filter but it obviously must.
Thanks mate!
make sure those are clamped on properly, I've seen someone **** their hand up pretty badly cos it wasn't on the filter properly.
Just get the OEM Honda filter removal tool, its roughly 10 bux, brillant piece of engineering, sooo simple
Oh yeah,that sounds sweet too.Will it work on the y4?
Coolio!
A good tip to changing oil filter make sure when you put a new oil filter in, rub some oil on the rubber around it and tighten by hand, next time you remove should be easy using hand :)
Great to hear cause that's all I could do...I bought a oil filter wrench for $25,I'll get a pic up soon but it didn't even work (sorry need a pic).I ended up using a normal one and after a lot of fiddling to try and find a position to move it,I got it.It felt tight when I did it by hand so I was 99% confident it was sweet.
Hey benny thanks a lot,that Motul 8100 5w-40 is awesome! Definately best oil yet.The engine is smoother and feels real nice.It looks and feels like a really good oil aswell.
wrenches dont work very well for the d-series engines imo, had both types when I first did it, and then found the Honda tool, soooo much easier, it's a must have for everyone on the forum
Get this oil filter wrench from supercheap (similar to this picture) easy to use in tight space like D-series. As I remember it's around $7
http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/core/me...cadee3ba16bb26
^^ That looks good but I think the hoda tool will be better...
Ryan,does the honda tool work on other filters like Hamp,K&N,Ryco or just OEM?
lol, nah only oem, has matched groves for your oem filter. Whereas the Ryco is wider and a much smaller profile, others aren't the same size. K&N has a good idea tho with the nut on it already, but they're very expensive making buying this tool sooo worth it in the long run
Ah,I thought so.The hamp filters seem good but they all seem much of a muchness really...
i've always been able to get it off by hand (with a descent amount of effort).
Apart from one time when i had to use a hammer and screw driver. hehe
Great to know Jase :)
Be very specific on the phone when you call them, it is a dealer only part, they will sell it to you tho, say it's the cap needed to remove the factory oil filter with the bolt welded to it. Otherwise I'll have a dig and see if I kept the part bag it came in :cool:
dunno why youd buy a HAMP when the blue ones are cheap as chips anyhow, they look the same when cut open, just curious?
The Hamp ones sound good,I have used em' before and they are fine.I was just gonna grab a deal on here 3 for $40.How much are OEM ones?
dealer sells me the oil and filter with washer for under $50
Yeah,I'm sure just the filter would be cheap as.
This thread has gone a bit off track :p..
from coolant, to oil, to oil filter
Sorry Benny...
Initially I had a few questions since it was the first time I done a full tune up myself so I thought keep it in 1 thread since it's for the d16y4 engine but I've learnt to just start a new thread next time :)
just change the title beeza!
d16y4 servicing tips or something
True,I'll do dat :)
but it's what is minimum and recommended so I get only oem on this engine as it's relatively standard, why stray I say :)
I'm an experimenter hehehe
HAMP is also OEM. but I am using it because I got it cheaper. haha
yeah I may buy a few next time 70 isnt too bad for 5, to try out and because theyre green as is most of the stuff on my car lol
yea was thinking of buying like 10 if I was able to, need one next month anyhow, they come with washers already like Honda ones?
a year or 2 ago me and my friends did a bulk buy at honda
worked out to be $32-$35 for a 5L bottle of FEO and oem oil filter
we only bought 10sets i think.. tried to do it again recently but was told no go... the kid that served me the last time wasn't their either this time.... damnz
my friend also bought a pack of oem filters from a member here... 10 for $50... bargain!
tru tru, may just but the 5 for $70 on here or more if I can get a cheaper deal that is
I want to buy some to but it will be mid october.Oz honda bulk buy :)
was just about to say that hey
Great minds think alike :rolleyes: