Planned mods for D16y4

First off, yeah i know its a sohc non-vtec, but i would like to make do with what i have. I dont have alot of money, & these few mods i have planned should give some new life back into the good old d16y4.

I can get a y4 head fairly cheap, & i know there would be a few around because of mini-me's, b16/18 & k20 conversions, etc. & something ive always wanted to do is get hands on & build a nice setup myself.

I already have k&n pod & 2.25" catback. Its my DD so ill be sourcing another head & doing the work on that. my next upgrade will be 4-2-1 headers. Cam, since there are no aftermarket billet items available for the y4, my only real option is a regrind. It works out to be cheaper than a billet camshaft anyway which is good. Finding a grinder with profiles for the y4 however was quite interesting. after much research i managed to stumble across tighecams.com.au & offer a regrind for the y4, & i do believe a member (turtleEK1) had his y4 cam done there aswell. The grind im looking at is the Tighe 996. In the US, alot of guys that run the D16Y7 (similar to the y4) use a delta 272 cam, which is also a regrind, & alot of them are very pleased with the results. So i was after a cam with similar specs to the 272, & the Tighe 996 seems to come very close. this cam should also work very well with the stock valvetrain, which i do not plan to upgrade apart from d16y8 springs, i believe they are a little stiffer compared to y4 springs.

Because of limited funds, i was going to leave headwork at that. I have thought about getting the head shaved/milled, but am unsure of what costs are involved, since the head is already off the block, the only labour i would be paying is the shaving/milling. Also thought about a mild port job aswell but again, am unsure of what costs are involved. I know all these mods will aid in better airflow, but i dont want to be throwing alot of $$$ into it.

Next on my list is injectors. Im not too sure about this, someone may know. I know the USDM D16Y7 which is very similar to the Y4, has 190cc injectors, & both of them being non-vtec, im fairly certain the Y4 is also fitted with 190cc injectors. If this is the case, 240cc injectors will be fitted for the next mod. Since im still staying NA and not chasing after alot of power, im sure the stock fuel pump should be more than enough, but an FPR is also on the agenda.

TB & IM. I do believe the stock Y4 TB is 56mm in diameter, please correct me if im wrong. So an upgrade of this would be to fit a TB from a B16. In order for the B16 TB to fit on the manifold properly, I have to source the TB from an OBD2 motor, since the Y4 is OBD2. So this will be a straight bolt-on because all the plugs & sensors will be the same. In order for the bigger throttle body to really make a difference, I plan to use a skunk2 pro series intake manifold. increased plenum & runner size aswell as an oversized throttle body opening.

I will be running the stock ecu for a while until i can get my hands on a chipped OBD1 P06 ecu & OBD2-OBD1 harness, some tuning & it should run exceptionally well.

On to the transmission. Ill be sourcing a manual g/box from a D16Y8. The gears are much closer compared to the y4s, meaning alot better acceleration. Ill also be fitting a XTD stage 1 clutch.

I could do a mini-me, but as i mentioned before, i would really like to work with what i already have. nothing too over the top, a nice street setup, not alot of power but enough to keep me satisfied...

Awesome man,nice post.Looks like you have done some good research there.I've got the y4 aswell and have been through all of this.
A lot of guys in the US love non-Vtec because it gives a smoother power curve,this is something I like too,smoothness.V-Tec I,m sure is fun but more so for b-series.
I too have no idea of prices for a P&P and slight milling of the head and would like to know.
How much is tighecams going to charge for a re-grind?
I know people will say don't bother modding the y4 and it's true really but I just haven't got $7000 for a b18c...
Stock injectors are fine upto 300kw!
If the fuel pump is oldish I would replace it with a 255lph Walbro pump $140.
The 60mm TB and Skunk2 IM will shift the powerband to the higher rpm's which is not ideal for a DD but with the support of a re-grind cam and a tune you should be able to get some,hopefully more than less of that power back to the low/mid range so I think it sounding good.

With the TB,as far as I know slight mods are needed,it's to do with the sensor's,can't remember exactly...does anyone know?

Are U is Brissy? I'm on the Goldy.

All you d-series lovers hate to hear it, but you'll be definitely wasting your time and money. Seriously how much do you plan to spend? Like $500? Just go buy a nice head unit and some speakers.

^ Agree with Barefoot.

A d16 anything, is seriously not the sort of base to be using if

a) you're after "new life" in your setup,
b) have a limited budget.

Forsure but I haven't got 7k for a b18c swap :(

lol booooo, obviously people who live in the higher part of life wouldnt settle for anything less. once people taste abit of the B or K they never go back to D. but thats just a personal choice, for this guy .. his willing to stick with the D and is happy for wat its worth. these little extra mods would jus be bonus within his given budget.

i would say sohc vtec mini me is a waste of time to mod and a head change wouldnt give any much noticeable gains. i would recommend, CAI, regrinded valves, b16a im and tb, 4-2-1 extractors, shave the head, y8 gearbox would be good as well. injectors wouldnt be necessary coz at the end of the day ur still a 1.6ltre and 190cc is more then enough

most gains would come from regrind, gearbox and shaved head. if ur really gona go hard at this semi build then i would recommend new piston rings, and if ur even more gangster then go for high comp piston.but for simplicity sake, Bswap that thing and ur done, no need to muck around with all this modding. but keep in mind that B swap and small Dseries build up has a big price gap.

That's kinda why I don't wanna drive a b-series cause I know I'll want one and I ain't got moneys for dat.My d is fine,I love it,it just needs a Dyno tune with Greddy e-manage and it will much better.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by barefootbonzai

All you d-series lovers hate to hear it, but you'll be definitely wasting your time and money. Seriously how much do you plan to spend? Like $500? Just go buy a nice head unit and some speakers.

---

Not everyone has the time/money/resources to do an engine swap, even if the results will be favourable. So what if he doesn't end up with a billion kw. If it gives him an improvement over what he has now (which it will) then what is the problem.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by tekung89

lol booooo, obviously people who live in the higher part of life wouldnt settle for anything less. once people taste abit of the B or K they never go back to D. but thats just a personal choice, for this guy .. his willing to stick with the D and is happy for wat its worth. these little extra mods would jus be bonus within his given budget.

i would say sohc vtec mini me is a waste of time to mod and a head change wouldnt give any much noticeable gains. i would recommend, CAI, regrinded valves, b16a im and tb, 4-2-1 extractors, shave the head, y8 gearbox would be good as well. injectors wouldnt be necessary coz at the end of the day ur still a 1.6ltre and 190cc is more then enough

most gains would come from regrind, gearbox and shaved head. if ur really gona go hard at this semi build then i would recommend new piston rings, and if ur even more gangster then go for high comp piston.but for simplicity sake, Bswap that thing and ur done, no need to muck around with all this modding. but keep in mind that B swap and small Dseries build up has a big price gap.

---

I agree here. Go for a head shave to get the comp up a bit, go for the regrind, add the bigger manifold and throttle body (whatever you can get the cheapest), CAI, headers and 2.25" exhaust and enjoy it. You will definitely notice the difference and it won't cost you a heap of cash. It will be more lively and fun to drive and thats what matters for a daily. If you don't run 12sec quarters so what?

VERY VERY VERY VERY refreshing to hear Grumpy!

save money to turbo the d series..

after spending on intake,exhaust,headers,clutch flywheel, ECU+tune and the labour to fit all these shit in.. you are at very best 15sec quartermile and say $2000-$3000 poorer..

However, if u are after minor gains.. d series modding suits u best.. but keep in mind that if u ever get $3k lying around.. turbo ur d series and with the above mods.. u will be a very happy man..

Absolutely!
The only down is a Turbo d isn't a good choice for the track,if you want to track it later on down the track,heating problems which cost a lot for the support systems and unequal length driveshafts,which make driving a pig compared to a b on the track.
I've heard the turbo in the greddy kits is too small and spools to quickly,therefore breaking traction...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by grumpy rooster

Not everyone has the time/money/resources to do an engine swap, even if the results will be favourable. So what if he doesn't end up with a billion kw. If it gives him an improvement over what he has now (which it will) then what is the problem.

---

Learn to read, where did i tell him to do a conversion? I said save your money all together and spend it else where.

But yeah, don't bother about my advice. There's plenty of internet guru's on here to give you advice on how to mod your current setup. Do all the stuff they have suggested then come back and share your experience with us all.

Far out man. Take a chill pill. The inference was there. :)

Yes it is never going to be majorly powerful, and yes in your eyes he is wasting his money, but it is HIS money. He said he knows that he will be told he is wasting his time but doesn't want to get the same old shit told to him. He knows all that. So you go and tell him he is wasting his time. Like thats helpful. Its horses for courses.

Should we start telling everyone who builds a B series engine they are crap and don't waste your money, get a K now? :p

The trick is to know your power goal.No use spending money on the d when afterwards your not going to be satisfied with it.If you promise youself you will keep it how it is then with those mods it will be a real nice car to drive.
And a stock b will still beat you,so if that dosen't bother you like it dosen't bother me then sweet.

lol, beeza actually said something i agree with ^^

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by grumpy rooster

He said he knows that he will be told he is wasting his time but doesn't want to get the same old shit told to him. He knows all that

---

Should probably stop for a sec and think... gees, i wonder y all these people would say such a thing....

Like myself, all them people giving them comments have probably already been there and tried it and have been highly dissapointed. Sure if you have money and want to be different go nuts.... but obviously from his post his not.

My issue is the amount of people on here that have never even touched a car, or have done what they are recommending -> giving advice to do it.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by grumpy rooster

Should we start telling everyone who builds a B series engine they are crap and don't waste your money, get a K now? :p

---

If they are planing to spend over $10k worth of mods on their NA b-series build. Yes i would tell them they are wasting their money and should just get a K :thumbsup:

I couldn't have done it without your help :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by barefootbonzai

lol, beeza actually said something i agree with ^^



Should probably stop for a sec and think... gees, i wonder y all these people would say such a thing....

Like myself, all them people giving them comments have probably already been there and tried it and have been highly dissapointed. Sure if you have money and want to be different go nuts.... but obviously from his post his not.

My issue is the amount of people on here that have never even touched a car, or have done what they are recommending -> giving advice to do it.

---

Are you saying I have never touched a car? Or done those mods to a car that may not be the best engine in the lineup? Maybe you shouldn't make so many assumptions. :)

Ok, back to the topic on hand. Don't touch the car because its a stupid idea and you will waste your money unlike any money you spend on a car. :)

last comment wasn't aimmed at you, but more to the d-series fan club of which 99% of them have stock civic and have no experience what so ever with modding honda's.

And yep, i agree don't waste your money on your car if you're on such a tight budget.

Thanks guys, yeah i did do alot of research before posting. Most of the mods i have described are reasonably cheap aswell. The thing with this setup too, if i do decide to go down the FI route, all id need to do is add a thicker headgasket, because most of the mods would work great with a turbo.

Keep in mind i will be doing most of the work myself, also fitting the Y8 gearbox & clutch, labour on the mods would absolutely kill me.

So ill keep the stock injectors, if they are 190cc, i dont plan to upgrade the fuel pump, iridium spark plugs & NGK wires. I should be able to pick up a Y4 head for cheap, main reason why im even considering these mods in the first place...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by VT1-R

save money to turbo the d series..

after spending on intake,exhaust,headers,clutch flywheel, ECU+tune and the labour to fit all these shit in.. you are at very best 15sec quartermile and say $2000-$3000 poorer..

However, if u are after minor gains.. d series modding suits u best.. but keep in mind that if u ever get $3k lying around.. turbo ur d series and with the above mods.. u will be a very happy man..

---

i think everyone is missing the point, his goal is to stay with his setup, keep reliability intact and give the engine a little bit more power. if his goal was to say run Xsecs down the track then i think he would've went an alternative direction ie. asked about conversions and turbo.

seeing that the heads out already as he mention, i reckon $$ labour would not be an issue. wat you would want to do is get the compression back up to a healthy state and from there ur mods like i/h/e/tb/im etc will give u more gains. like others have mention before, the most power u will get is from regrinding valves, shaving the head to up compression (a nice alternative way to raise compression without having to rip the block apart) and to assist the extra power gain i would definately recommend the y8 box.

LOL but like wateva i read before, if ur gona spend X amount of dollars on a D that will be as fast/cost jus as much as a B then why not jus engine swap it, this applies to B->K. but in ur case ur not even using up 1/4 of the amount a B swap would cost so jus go ahead buddy and let us know how it goes. LOL dont dissapoint the D-series lovers out there

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by barefootbonzai

last comment wasn't aimmed at you, but more to the d-series fan club of which 99% of them have stock civic and have no experience what so ever with modding honda's.

And yep, i agree don't waste your money on your car if you're on such a tight budget.

---

Since this is my first time modding my honda & i have no experience, I do want to keep price at a minimal, get to know whats what, then go from there. Is there something wrong with being different & not following the B/K swap road? I'm doing these mods for a modest street build, as i mentioned before nothing over the top, if i did that then yeah might aswell go a B. All our goals are different, maybe your goal is to have alot of power, my goal is for a nice lightly built D16.

I knew i would get flamed/diff opinions on here as soon as i started typing, I would have posted all this on another forum, the fact is since i live in australia, & not alot of ppl have modded a Y4, maybe there is someone else out there that would like to do the same & find out whats what & whats not for himself/herself, since there isnt a whole lot of information on how to mod a Y4, for the simple fact most ppl say do a conversion. If i wanted to do a conversion, i would have stated in the thread name. I appreciate the advice, really i do, but yeah i have heard it all before.

Wasting money? in my eyes, its not wasting money at all, a great investment i see it as. Most ppl that say to do a conversion, are not happy with what they have, i on the other hand am very happy with the D16Y4s performance & power. if i can get something better with what i have at a reasonable cost im willing to spend, hey mate im all for it.

I Love my y4 too man :)

Just needs a tune.

no need to get defensive bro, i'm just offering an honest opinion. i wish i knew more before i started building this and that. I know i wasted a lot of money doing "performance mods" back in the day and got no where. Just wish someone told me from day one that it's not really gonna make your car much faster.

but as beeza said, if you really think you're gonna be content with them little mods, go for gold. i just hope you don't ever look back and think, oh shit.... it wasn't even worth it...

i know the mods wont make it much faster, but a little faster than stock, stock form i can keep up with commo's, falcons, etc. I just want something simple thatll scare a few of the v6 boys...

hey dude
i'm pretty sure the b16a throttle body will not work on the d16y4... the motor itself is the black sheep of the honda world... its not exactly an obd2 vehicle, it runs a totally different ecu to the conventional obd1 and obd2 hondas.

i believe there are 2 versions to the OBD2, OBD2a & OBD2B, im certain there are conversion harnesses you can get that are OBD2a/b - OBD1....

i ran a custom conversion harness and a D16y8 dizzy, intake manifold, throttle body and hondata ecu...
it wasn't a very a cheap exercise at the time lol

fark the y4 and get a y8.

A D series we know is aiming for 100kw atw with stock cams thats with d16y8.

hope you can get this build done. it was so anti-climax when muhan stopped posting about his d-series build. would love to see the end result for the build as im thinking of heading down the d-series n/a route coz im a povo. i know it may cost alot in the end but at least i can spend a bit at a time instead of forking out 4.5 k plus in one go.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by d15z1SUX

i know it may cost alot in the end but at least i can spend a bit at a time instead of forking out 4.5 k plus in one go.

---

My point exactly

Found the conversion harness @ Edge Automotive. But Ill need to source an OBD1 Dizzy & plug, not a problem though. I knew i would encounter bumps along the road.

I would like to stay non-vtec, even though i have never driven a vtec equipped car before. I can get a nice rebuilt Y8 head for a very good price, but again, i would much rather work with what im familiar with & what i currently have.

are you doin this because your planning to run an OBD1 computer with hondata or crome or just so you can have a b16a throttle body on ur y4?

just do as fatboyz said and find a y8 motor with loom and everything! or for just the tuneability.. just keep everything you have and just wire up a greddy emanage?
so much less stuffing around

im not trying to put you off
im just saying this cause 18months ago i went thru it all and it was a total waste of money doing anything to the Y4 motor

nar he already knows that, but wants to do it anyways. I bet it's all talk anyways, like the rest of them. but feel free to prove me wrong, i can't wait to see the results.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by barefootbonzai

nar he already knows that, but wants to do it anyways. I bet it's all talk anyways, like the rest of them. but feel free to prove me wrong, i can't wait to see the results.

---

Thanks for the contructive criticism, comments like that just make people want to do it even more!

I want to convert to OBD1 to run a chipped OBD1 ecu, probably crome

Again ricer, i know in your opinion, its a waste of money, to me it isnt, most parts for the D series you can find anywhere because most people have done an engine conversion.

I know the results will be minimal, im basically rebuilding the head with a cam, and allowing more air to flow through with bigger IM & TB. Its the fact that i dont have to fork out alot of money in one hit that makes this build more friendlier for me.

Sounds interesting.

I have a friend that works at tighe cams so I know that they do quality work and they know their shit.

So the car is going to be a daily driver yes?

yeah it is going to be a DD, yeah tighe seems to be the only company in oz that has profiles for a non-vtec soh d16...

They can do cams for preety much anything afaik.

Ill be getting my cams and flywheel made there aswell :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by d15z1SUX

hope you can get this build done. it was so anti-climax when muhan stopped posting about his d-series build. would love to see the end result for the build as im thinking of heading down the d-series n/a route coz im a povo. i know it may cost alot in the end but at least i can spend a bit at a time instead of forking out 4.5 k plus in one go.

---

It's ALL true! :thumbsup:

Well, i may hold off getting a tighe cam. I can get a rebuilt D16Y7 head for cheap over in the states, & the delta 272 regrind only cost about $100us aswell. Was also going to get the head milled/shaved over there aswell.

Performance Porting, can do a stage 1 rebuilt head with 3-angle valve job & head milled/shaved for $300us, but, shipping is going to kill me if i have to send my head over there & then send it back, so i might aswell source a head over in the us so shipping wont be as much.

Though it would be even better if i could find a mechanic that could rebuild a head for near that price, which i heavily doubt.

Also looking at fjdistributors.com, also has some good products for you B series guys, not just for the D. Looking at the Hi comp kit for the Y7 since the Y4 is basically the same, no-one has confirmed this yet, but both being non-vtec & out of 96-00 civics, i would have to say they'd have to be fairly close, the hi-comp kit includes PM3 pistons (USDM D15B7, flat top), rings, timing belt, water pump, ACL rod & main bearings & ACL thrust washers. also includes a full gasket & seals kit for around $300. I figure if i have the head off, for an extra $300ish i might aswell work on the bottom end aswell. Should bring the compression up alot aswell, around a high 11, low 12.

goodluck with your project

This is Exciting!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by beeza

This is Exciting!

---

don't get too excited, read his previous posts. his been planning to do something since 2003.

ahahaha barefoot,I couldn't handle another anti climax like muhhan's build :)

Link no workie...

correct barefoot, i had been planning to do some work since 2003, the fact was at the time i didnt have the money nor time to do such plans, now i do.

At the time i was thinking of going the D17 crank, rod & pistons, too much modifications involved so i put it off. Now the mods im doing are fairly easy, but i should still notice some type of gain...

definitely not bang for buck mods...

i got a D16Y8 manifold and throttle body for with sensors for sale if you think you might need them

i love u vtecnique !!! i have the same shit engine lik urs LOL .. i was thinking of some cheap mods that will give me a small boost .. and yeah .. i have heard the same things my self ' dont waste ur money on the d block get a b' i totally agree with it .. but i have no money, im a broke mother f*cker so yeah small mods lik this that cost abit .. i dont mind doing ! as i also want to learn moree abt cars .. and im a total newbie in cars .. just bought my ek1 as well .. so yeah put up pics with ur mods .. and keep this tread updated mate .. thx alot for the info learned alot : )

thanks for the influence mate...

on another note, the EK1 to OBD1 conversion harness from Edge Auto requires an OBD1 Dizzy & the loom side plugs, i also have to wire in the injectors. Why do i need the OBD1 dizzy though, i read somewhere it has something to do with a sensor but cant be 100% sure.

Hey VTECnique keep us up to date mate, I for one am very keen to find out how you go with this modification as i have a D16y4 and wouldnt mind going down a similar path if you get good results :)

Ok, so while im on the lookout for a new gearbox, still unsure which to get, i see alot of the Y4s motor & box for sale for around $300. wouldnt matter what state the motor was in because i will be rebuilding it ground up with PM6 (D16A6 USDM) pistons to help increase compression. all this i will be doing on my own in my garage.

Now, because of the complexity of using an OBD1 tuneable ecu, ive decided to scrap this path. Im now thinking of using the Apexi AFC Neo. Not as many tuning parameters as the standalones & the chipped OBD1 ecus, but i do believe with the mods i have planned the Neo should run everything quite fine.

In saying that, i was going to go for a stage 2 cam regrind. But now, since i do want every mod to work considerably well with each other, i decided on a stage 1 cam. UP TO a 10% increase in power from standard, the bisimoto level 1 regrind is basically a plug & play cam with no tuning required. it can run quite well with the stock ecu. the AFC should have enough tuning points to properly tune the level 1 cam. i could go with a level 2 cam, but am unsure whether the AFC will be able to handle it properly ei. not enough tuning points.

Now because i will be using the skunk2 IM for a D16, the B16 throttle body will bolt straight up to this manifold. If it cannot, i have a 70mm TB in mind, but would this be too big for my setup?

with these & early mentioned mods, im aiming for around 100kw at the wheels, please do not laugh, if you think this figure cannot be achieved then tell me in a respectable manner. i would even be happy with 90ish kw!

I was looking at a Y8 gearbox for the Y4 engine.Stockwise,I heard it`s the best option.

I`m pretty sure greddy e-manage is a better option than the neo.Can somebody confirm this.

If you do order the stage 1 cam from bisi could you drop me a PM,I`m keen to buy also if not too expensive,this way we obviously can split the shipping cost.I`m on the Gold coast.

70mm is too big.The TB should match the Skunk2 IM,60mm.But there is an issue with one of the sensor`s,2 to 3 wire.Can`t remember exactly...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by beeza

But there is an issue with one of the sensor`s,2 to 3 wire.Can`t remember exactly...

---

the d16y4 is a 3 wire IACV sensor

70mm tb is too big mate.
Bisimoto sounds like a good choice.

Thanks guys, yeah i thought 70mm might be too big.

Beeza - i know the e-manage is a much better piggyback unit, but since of my budget, yeah you could call it cheaping out i spose, ive gone with parts that can run fairly well with the stock ecu. If i went with the e-manage, i would move up to the stage 2 cam...

Alot of the US D-series guys swear by bisimoto, the only problem being for us is the fact that we have to send our cams all the way over to the united states, $$$ in shipping fees. If only he had a supplier in Aus, now that would be awesome!!

Beez - with the level 1, no need to change springs & retainers either, im quite happy with where the stock rev limiter is, & the level 1 cam produces power between 1500 - 5700rpm.

go hard man i have a d series as well, currently in the process of my build...

some words of wisdom:

keep to what you say your gonna do, or else money will become an issue

Zex/Comp Cams 59300 Camshaft...

i have one if you want it

i'd say get a PFC rather than the Neo, Plug & play, heaps more functionailty.
And later it can accommodate turbo Or a engine conversion if that's what your gonna do.

Big is not always the best. Do your research then carefully chose your parts

mystery - i cant use the zex/comp cam because the Y8 & Y4 heads are completely different, plus that cam has much more lift & duration to the one im looking at

Limbo - if i had the money to get the power FC, believe me i would.

sorry i forgot your not vtecn :):):)

bisimoto is a good choice. if you really want to maximise your bang per buck build, email or ring him yourself, he can help you choose the best setup for your car to make good power with minimal amount of money spent. if i remember correctly, back when he was in his noob days, he built a 12 second d with less than $3000.

oh and stage 2 can be run fairly well without tuning, but if you plan to keep the valvetrain factory, stick with stage 1.

im running a stage 2 bisimoto cam in my d15b4 semi-quad carby setup, its bloody brilliant having a powerband from 3500-7500rpm.

oh and if you're building the motor yourself, head to www.fjdistributors.com. they can sell you a high comp bottom end rebuild for $350 shipped. then if you mill the head approximately 1mm and deck the block similarly, you can get the compression ratio up to 13s. you may need to fidget around a bit with the afc neo to get it running well, as well as play around with ignition timing, but aside from that, looking to be a strong build.

oh and yeah, bumping myself but contact bisimoto before spending craploads of money. apparently he has a combo package for the d series that can see upwards of 200whp.

.... i am just a D eg civic owner and i am also a uni student ...

i didntt have much money ... so i spent around 2500 for the mods like this

4 - 2-1 header , excedy light weight fly wheel, Lv 1 clutch, 14' enkei wheels plus

BS RE001 X 4 , front stXXX bar [forgive my poor eng.], head light , tail light , EG6 meter

.... hondestly , plus the car value , i spent almost 10000 $ ... which I can buy a B16 eg

already in some state .... but thats my D ! i did all the DIY by myself and learned a

lot ! and it is a FUN car, I will say ~

is it fast ??? ... i will say... NO ! but it is a good and reliable engine , it can run 6.5 – 8L

petrol for 100KM ~ what else do u want for a D engine ? B and K is not everything ~

if you got the skills , there are no big different between a B16 and D16 !

... one thing that i have to say !!! as i know there are no any 4.4 - 4.7 final gear

for D in AU or in US .... but you can buy it from Hong Kong, thats will be the best for

achieve the max acceleration .. the price should be 300 - 400

just one more question.... what will be the cam that i should buy if i want the cheapest and better KW gain ~?? how much for that included the shipping ??

also , which one is the best if i dont want to change the valve spring and so on ???

bump...

least aggressive cam if u dont want to change valve spring... but then u don't get the dollar to kw gain. coz most of the cams are the same price regardless of what stage cam it is.

talk to bisimoto, i think he has a d series stage 2.2 regrind that is safe to run on factory valvetrain.

for a d series 4.7 final drive, head to www.onecamonly.com. i think their sponsor 'speedfactory' have a special on them.

dude i say go for it heck i drive a twin carb eg and it still makes me smile..im just waiting til i get richer and bamm sti here i come lollzz

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by VTECnique

i know the mods wont make it much faster, but a little faster than stock, stock form i can keep up with commo's, falcons, etc. I just want something simple thatll scare a few of the v6 boys...

---

i can keep up with a stock vl on my eg4 lolz

Hey guys, how's the progress on the d16y4? I'm planning on getting an ek sedan, and I was wondering what gains you'd get from the mods described above? :) Can you definitely feel the difference or is there no point in doing N/A mods and jsut to the FI route?

if u want a good gearbox for the D in australia - get a S20 B000 - its the only box that will guarantee short gear ratios and FD

the VTI coupe (D16y8) NOT SEDAN (D16y5) will have nice ratio as well ... but its hard to tell the y8 and y5 box's apart because they are both stamped S40 B000