EG Setup Yo

Im in the process of planning my stereo for my EG hatch and just have a couple of questions that would be better addressed here then MEA.

1. Do I really need rear coxials? Seeing as I don't really have ppl in the rear seats and I'm never in the rear seat unless for action, is it necessary to get rear fills? I don't want to moun 6 1/2 speakers on the rear parcels either for some reason. (Ps I do have some Polk DB6501 components for the front).
The stereo going in was for my old car (a sedan) so now that i've downgraded to a hatch, I'm not 100% sure. Would love input from guys that have rears and have not got rears.

2. In terms of subs, I'm looking at just running one sub. At the moment I have a 1600, 800rms Schnier Pro15dv 15 inch woofer, which I assume would be to insanely loud in a hatch...haha I am thinking of downgrading to a DD3510 woofer if I can get rid of mine and purchase my mates. Any input? Looking to do a fibreglass enclosure so I can still utilise the little bootspace I have.

3. Wanting to use 2 bulks of dynamat extreme to sound deaden. Would just the front doors and boot be sufficient or should I do rear side panels as well? I was thinkin 8-10 sheets for the boot and not sure how much for the doors?

Cheers guys

I just put Dynamat in my doors on a CRX 94 ...it took 2 sheets to do each door....inside and outside...and boy do the sound good now...i also did the floor with 5 sheets still to do the boot and the roof

I have co axials in the rear of my car only for when i have removed my sub....you really do not need rears if you are running a sub....but once again it is all about what you want not what others say..

no idea of the schnier sub but DD3510 is a great sub but how much power would be on tap? with sufficient power + proper box volume/ ported and tuned would be insane.

what type of music you listen to ? .. but DD reckon would be a better choice and for rear fill i would say there isnt much use since DD would make it hard to hear the rears=p

850rms @ 2ohm
1350rms @ 10hm.

Got a 4 channel to power my Front stage.

Listen to Hip hop /rnb

I think its a dual 2 ohm, so i can wire parralell or somethi nback to 2ohm. I'd need a 4ohm sub to wire to 1ohm? Im a bit rusty with stereos. Havent done one since 06 haha.

dvc 2ohm means it can handle only a 4 or 1 impedence load.

anyway back to ur original questions,

1. no you dont NEED em. if you dont wanna customise a rear tray for 6"ers and you have spare 6x9's lying around, chuck em on. if you dont have spares, dont worry. personally i wouldnt bother having rear fill in any car, but only because im into sq.

2. you changing subs because you're afraid it will be too loud for your hatch?? dont have it so loud then... either sub would sound nice, just up to you if u wanna go thru the hassle of changing & buying the dd. but yer either subby will take a massive chunk outta your bootspace so good choice on customising a box.

3. 2 bulk packs just for the eg doors & boot is plenty.

3. Scrap the 2 bulk packs. After reading on MEA the law of diminishign returns (Yeah I studied economics) they mad a valid point. Don't overkill and weigh down your car with unrequired Dynamat. I think I'll stick with 12 sheets. Probably 2-3 for each door (not sure how much other EG owners have done) and save the rest for the boot.

In regards to boot, hopefully 6-8 will be enough...Technically they dont have a Boot lid, so not sure where most of it will go.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Lil Dan

3. Scrap the 2 bulk packs. After reading on MEA the law of diminishign returns (Yeah I studied economics) they mad a valid point. Don't overkill and weigh down your car with unrequired Dynamat. I think I'll stick with 12 sheets. Probably 2-3 for each door (not sure how much other EG owners have done) and save the rest for the boot.

In regards to boot, hopefully 6-8 will be enough...Technically they dont have a Boot lid, so not sure where most of it will go.

---

you're a little wiser now, but 2-3 per door? you know even half a sheet will make a huge difference, the rest is unwanted weight and an unwanted expense...

i have/had a video clip i made with about half a dozen 2 inch squared pieces of deadening scattered over a panel and the same oposite panel had none, want to know how much those 6 pieces reduced vibration? hehe HEAPS :)

flat panels vibrate, stamped panels (where there is a shape or has a line) dont vibrate, they are strong, dont believe me, well i broke my big toe on one of those lines :) vibrate that my toe said...

the bits you need to seal are the inspection holes, but you have to make them still servicable or mechanics will just rip off the deadening and it wont go back on... want to stop road noise, use other materials that are light and designed to stop road noise the biggest killer to quality car audio, then you chase down panel rattles, boy is that fun hahahahaha

its all about using the brain rather than the keyboard :)

thats why people like myself that do this for a living do know tricks and tips, but seldom give out those secrets to diyer's... the thought of opening an installers school has crossed my mind, but how many out there would fork out $$$ to learn techniques that could land them a job with a store paying more than the average job blow? chances are, not many kids would pay to learn to do something properly, but opt to do it on the cheap then jump on forums hoping someone would answer their question properly... go figure :p

Two Bulk packs is a lot if you're just doing the doors and boot. A single bulk pack is sufficient.

If you're also doing the floor etc, then maybe. But even then you will still have a lot left over.

Don't forget the defusers behind the speakers in the door, and more important, a solid mount into the door panel.

+10KG into an EG with deadening makes a massive difference, and for a daily driver is acceptable add-on in weight even if you hit the track once in a while.

Just have a couple of quick questions.

What are the stock size holes for the for the fronts? I'm sure they are 5 1/4, but ive also read they are 6.5...I talked to the installer about some pods and his like you don't need them. We can make it fit... hmm

Also, I never really thought about this, but since Im only going to run fronts and have a four channel, is it possible to bridge 1 and 2 and 3 and 4 to power left and right splits? I dont really understand the whole componenet systems thing and crossovers etc...

1. the HOLES can easily fit 7 inchers, the stock BAFFLES/SPACERS im not sure. mine allowed 6/6.5 while other eg baffles were only 5 inchers, not sure why.

best to take your grill off and have a look. take out the baffles if you need to, its only 4 screws. there will be a measurement somewhere on the plastic spacer, look for that.

thats said i would just get new mdf spacers made, the stock baffles are 'leaky' as hell.

2. wouldnt recommend doing that. if you feel like your gonna be 'wasting' channels then use the amp to run the fronts 'actively', but that might give you more headaches...

You do not really need rear speakers unless you carry passengers in back
if you have a sub, which you do, you will have the bass coming from the back, and the vocals coming from the front so it evens out, well that my opinion anyway as i have this in my eg hatch atm.
About the crossovers, from my knowledge, i dont know whether it is right or not but i think the crossovers, you can determine what frequency is produced from the woofers and what frequency is produced from the tweeters.

Overall, from my experience, which isnt much lol, i would just leave the rears vacant and just have the speakers upfront and the sub in boot. does the job.

Yeah, Im going that way too. i'm not even 100% certain I want a DD in there yet... what are your guys experience with >1000rms on tap using a stock alternator and battery? I would think somethin would give out very quickly...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Lil Dan

what are your guys experience with >1000rms on tap using a stock alternator and battery?

---

engine on or off? :p

engine off wise, battery wont last, but engine on wise the drawing of amps from the alternator that wont nearly produce as much as required...hmmm thats my assumption. Am i close? Its not like I'll be cracking it so loud my lights are dimming and stuff like that. I want it reliable ie still cranks 1st time, alternator still charges etc. Maybe a bigger CCA rated battery for extra juices to the electrical components of the vehicle?

Icacha - If you have both a 4 channel and mono wired up but the mono itself hasnt been wired to power a sub as of yet, will it still draw current when the car is turned on? I'm thinkin of gettin both amps installed (Maybe a discount in it) and wiring a sub up later on down the track if I need to upgrade batteries or something.

wired as in powered up? if its powered and turning on yes it will still draw current, idle current only thou, generally about 2amps or there abouts, once you connect a load to it (speaker) then it will draw more as you crank the volume...

so stereo went in today and yesterday

Used up about 9 1/4 dynamats and still got some left over.

But some problems. The standard rear spoiler rattles like a MOFO. Everyone else have the same problem. Same with the rear right side shelf (maybe coz my box is mounted on the right). WIll dynamat fix any of these problems?

Should mention my gear

Eclipse CD7200 MKII
DLS MS6A 6.5 components with UP1c tweets
Eclipse SW7000 10 inch box in custom fibreglass box
Soundstream Lil Wonder II 4 channel amp (4x85rms)
Schneider SPA-6000x monoblock (850rms @ 2ohm)
Dynamat
Stinger RCAs and mixture of other 0 gauge and 4 gauge wiring.