had the dizzy off a few months ago to have some seals replaced
seems to feel a bit down on power since then
what sort of effects am i going to see if the dizzy wasn't aligned to the position it was previously?
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had the dizzy off a few months ago to have some seals replaced
seems to feel a bit down on power since then
what sort of effects am i going to see if the dizzy wasn't aligned to the position it was previously?
your timing is out man,get a timing light & just reset it,best if u do it ASAP.
reading some other threads about timing, if i don't jump the service plug and just twist the dizzy while the car is off(obviously the car was off when the dizzy was removed and seals replaced) it shouldn't affect timing should it?
the ecu would just compensate wouldn't it?
or am i just totally not getting the whole idea behind it :p
Twisting the dizzy in any situation affects the timing.
U need to set the base timing to give the engine & ecu common ground to work from,compensations by the ecu are made only according to such things as air/coolant temp,throttle tip-in & knock(if present).
U jump the service connector to disable any compensations by the ecu so that the ecu & engine can find the common base timing to relate to each other.The ecu shouldnt really be compensating while idling at normal operating temp,but could see some air temp compensation if warm day &/or left idling for a decent amount of time,so thats why the service connector is jumped.
To set timing,either take it to a mech, only a 5min job,shouldnt cost much or get a timing light(not expensive either).
Make sure car is warmed up to operating temp,jump connector,align middle notch(of 3 notches close together) on crank pulley with pointer on engine block using timing light & turning dizzy slightly either way till correct. Leave bolts on dizzy loose & just nip up the top bolt in between checking the timing until right. When turning the dizzy with the engine running,dont grab the leads or cap with your bare hand,turn it by holding the metal base only,ask dsp26 why(lol). Dont forget to remove jump from connector.
Make sure your idle is stable & reasonably close to spec before checking timing,if not,adjust it(u can get cheap multimeters with tacho function if u dont trust stock tacho),but as long as your fairly confident its idling below say 950rpm u should be ok.
will give it a go tonight, gonna go grab a timing gun :)
shocks shouldn't be a problem.. usually wearing latex gloves for any car work
will see how i go tonight :)
next time just mark where the centre is.. before u take it off..
mine has a mark now.. prev owner advanced it didnt seem right..(pushing it forward)
now its back in the centre and running well... sparks are going right..
not sparking early like it was before.. mid range changed up top went better.. from my observations anyways
mmmm if there is an electrical short and it hits you ""YOUR IN FOR A RUDE SHOCK"" latex gloves will not help you !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by vinnY
tip if you adjust the dizzy with the motor runing and need to turn it make sure your whole hand is touching the dizzy and the side of the head where its attatches as this will make the short or spark travel the shortest rout and lessen the effect of a shock
or it will travel across your body and short out giving you 1 helll of a shock
happy sparkin
lol yeah i was gonna say vinny.. won't help if it can leak through a plastic dizzy cap and thick silicone leads..... it hurt my heart.. literally :(Quote:
Originally Posted by MRGRIM
thanks for the tip grim and ron
didn't find a timing gun tonight so it's gonna have to wait :)
we'll see whats up.
now to get the stupid problem of the chassis shaking while accelerating through the 3000rpm range...
i got shocked one it was bad, scared the crap out of me, and that was 240v. :(
That's why i always get someone else to wire stuff for me :)
hey limbo.. ron.. wanna help me adjust my timing? ;)
i can but my timing light is deadz0rz.. skips beat even with different leads :(Quote:
Originally Posted by vinnY
on another note i can't even find the freakin timing alignment on the cam cover on my b16
thought the marking was on the block near the crank so you could line up the marks?