so it seems i have to remove the front wheel hubs to install extended lug nuts, rear appear to be fine though
can i remove them without screwing up the bearing or is my only option to destroy it and replace it with a new one?
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so it seems i have to remove the front wheel hubs to install extended lug nuts, rear appear to be fine though
can i remove them without screwing up the bearing or is my only option to destroy it and replace it with a new one?
no you can press apart the hub, the inner collar of the bearing will stay on the hub, you then swap your studs and press back the hub and the bearing will be OK. you have to be a carefull when pressing the Hub back together coz that is when you have to potential to kill the bearing.
u have to remove it and reuse it.. just greese it back up
I noramlly bring it to mekong canley vale for them to press it out..
but i heard u can use a slide hammer device to pull the hub out with it on the car.
thanks for the info ecu-man, will have a look later tonight :)
already off the car blitz, i got a press at home i just ran out of time to fix stuff last night :)
now i just have to find something the right size to press it out heh + instructions would be good :p
from memory there are instrcutiosn on honda-tech.. step by step.. including how that obtained the ring hehgehe try there.
yeah sorta found a guide lastnight
unfortunately honda-tech usually has a fetish with having non-working images :(
will scour the net more today..
Vinny Mekong spares in Canley Vale presses out the bearings, it was pretty cheap can't rem how much now, about $20 or so. Might as well get them done while the whole thing is out
i'll have to look into it more heh
damn front studs, who the hell thought it was a good idea to be NOT able to replace them while still on the car
Sorry I read it wrong...
1- as u did.. remove the complete assembly press the ****er out
2- Slide hammer and remove the hub and bearing.. then replace stbs.
3- Lube mobile on Astro's old ITR tapped it out and manged to get it out... not sure how the fark it worked.
MAN.. just bring you assembly to mekong... its cheap and saves u the headaches..
you can't! have to remove the stupid hub
sat there for like 10 minutes last night trying to rotate the hub and finding gaps
don't toy with my emotions dan :p
lol, might find that front issue you had a while back
nah i've put down the front end issue to worn inner cv's on one of my drive shafts
will get them fixed soon, just need to get this one out of the way too :pQuote:
Vibrate all the time at highway:
Wheel Balance off
Bent wheel
Bubble in tire, or misc. tire deformation
Wheel bearing, possibly but ive never seen it, Ive only seen them making tons of noise
Vibrate ONLY when braking:
Brakes, warped rotors etc.
Good way find if its braking from front or rear is to pull the e-brake at highway speeds to see if it vibrates with just the rear brakes.
Vibration on ACCELERATION at highway speeds
USUALLY inner cv joint on 1 or both of axles bad.
eheheh .. just remove the arms man and press out the hubs.. ahahQuote:
Originally Posted by vinnY
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*cough*
well i got the press at home, anyone have any tutorials on removing the hub? hehe
okay going through the workshop manual for pressing out the hub, seems easy enough to get an old socket and push the hub out
any tips/tricks of the trade to make sure i don't mess up the bearing when pressing the hub back in? don't have that fancy alignment tool that the workshop manual states to use
dont use 20Tone force :)
thats good since i only have a 12t press :p
can i use a rubber mallet and slowly tap the hub back in until i have to use the press?
http://img150.imageshack.us/img150/4...ycamperyr5.jpg
i'm a happy camper :) my partner in crime was a 12t press and a 3/4" nut
so how does everyone recommend i clean the bearing and what sorta grease should i use before i get it back together?
more tips on putting it back would be good :D
good lord. i need to do the same as u vinny.
so u used a 12t press to get it apart and a nut too? u reckon u'd able to tell me how u got it apart?
yep used a 12t shop press and a large nut from bunnings
if you click on the product link, you'll see that under the bottle jack theres a piston.
it's actually too thin and fits through the wheel hub hole where the drive shaft would go
so i went out to bunnings and bought a 3/4" nut and threw it on the back and just used the press and drove it through
ploped out easy as, just the initial pop is a bit worrying but once it's loose it'll come out easy as :)
i thought you fixed your snapped stud though?
in your case i wouldn't just run out and buy a press if all you need to do is place that one stud
just pay mekong spares for their time to press it out and press it back in with your new stud in place
i actually replace the stud by using an angle grinder to grind off abit of the butt of the Stud until it came out easily. Save me all the trouble to take the whole hub off but doing this method wasnt the correct way. But now im looking into extended studs and running spacers just like you thats why i wanted to know :p
Thanks vinny :thumbsup: cant give u rep point, need to spread around first. focking gay system!
s'all good :)
if you go extended studs though, still get it done at a shop instead of buying one hehe
i only bought one because i'm going to be replacing the bushings in my car and can't afford to have time off to do it all at once
u bought the press from deals direct.. hahaaha.. cracks me up..
can i come over and borrow you press to make myself a one dollar coin
don't knock it man, it works :p
so any suggestions on cleaning/regreasing? gonna have a go at it tomorrow
i've just heard shoot it with degreaser, wash, let it dry or hit it with some compressed air then grease it up with bearing lube and mash it back together
Quote:
Originally Posted by vinnY
Yeah thats pretty much you do. Just use the correct grease:thumbsup:
to get the hubs off i seen them at mekong all they use is a hammer and a metal pipe wat i do is extension and right size socket and hit the hub out
it's alright got it out already :)
just gonna lube it up and get it back in now
picked up some bearing grease from peps, castrol htb
just gotta clean it out now, should i flush it with metho instead of water so that it dries faster? or just stick to blowing out the water
edit; actually am i supposed to remove the bearing, repack it and whack it back in or should i just smother the bearings in grease and whack the hub back on?
so....... i finally got around to pressing the hub back together
went in just about all the way then the rear collar popped out :(
looks like i stupidly pressed the hub down into the knuckle instead of the other way around, haste got the better of me i guess
flipped it around and pressed the other collar back in and it seems okay for now.. seems to spin smoothly but i'm assuming because of the new grease theres quite a bit more resistance than before
anything i should be listening out for while rotating the hub by hand to indicate whether i've damaged the bearing or not? or can you only diagnose bad bearings by having them installed and listening to the infamous whump-whump sound?
i guess if worse comes to worse i can just replace the bearings
i'm sure after 12 years the bearings are overdue to be changed anyhow
i found this cheap bearing separator online, 30-50mm for your inner race bearing.
i bought it just havent received it yet.. damn.
i thought youre not suppose to wash the bearings in solvent nor to re-grease them? and yeah manual says to clean with high flash point solvent (metho most likely) for hub and knuckle.
wheel bearings koyo, was about $70 a side for my eg-non abs
wanna know more about your progress!
well its probably a good idea to repack it with some wheel bearing grease before it goes on back together
there doesn't seem to be any play when i wiggle the hub, seems to be seated fine too
i mean i don't know whether i've screwed it up or not, just a gut feeling :(
guess i won't find out until i install it
hub spins nicely on the knuckle? ... lol yeah wouldnt have a clue to tell. maybe ecu-man was just scaring you off lol.
*shakes fist at ecu-man*
well i'll pop on the front knuckles tonight and see how i go, that is if i can get the bloody spindle nuts off..
oh vinny while youre at it.. can you please tell me whats the size of brake disc retaining screw?
gauge and length. i broke 2 screw heads trying to undo these screws omg, and the screw starting to round off.
your guess is as good as mine at the moment :)
i assume they're just m5 counter sunk screws with what looks like a 1.0mm pitch
if you find any let me know, i need another 4 hehe
lol bugger
okay so before i whack on the conversion
it appears when i lubed up the bearings inside its creating a lot of resistance when turning
while it will spin smoothly, if you give it a good push it'll just come to a stop
compared to the rears, if i give it a good push it'll do at least a full rotation by itself before coming to a stop
so should i consider pressing it out again, removing some grease and putting it back together?
when i say a lot of grease i mean a LOT of grease :( guess i went a bit overboard
guess it'll probably give me a chance to check if i damaged anything since i heard some weird sounds while pressing it back together
yeh press it back out.
If there is excess remove some and press it back in and test spin it.
What do u mean by weird noises?
well i can tell you now, theres A LOT excess in there hahah
i'll take a photo of it later tonight
hoping to whack it all on tomorrow night and get an alignment saturday morning ;)
talkin' about the front wheel hub here claymore, they're the sealed ballbearing type not the roller bearing ones
so doesn't really apply here but good info none the less
learnt that technique when i was reading about repacking bearings :)
well just an update, popped the hub out again
appears all the grease i put in previous has worked it way well into the bearing and is super lubed which i'm assuming why its got so much resistance
when i say 'resistance' i don't mean i gotta be superman to turn the hub, it just doesn't spin freely when you give it a good push but has no troubles spinning smoothly when you keep trying to spin it
i guess theres no real way to find out if i really screwed it up or not until i put them on the car hey?
anyway i'll let the photos do the talking
http://img413.imageshack.us/img413/6962/knucklerl9.jpg
http://img511.imageshack.us/img511/5978/hubur7.jpg
http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/9...aringpnvw3.jpg
http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/9...klerearoq6.jpg
as you can see nothing seems out of the ordinary
although i did notice that in the third pic, the metal ring in the middle(the inner race?) has some back/forth play but seems solid when i press it all back together, this normal at all?
doesn't seem to make any ill sounds when turning the hub when its all pressed back together
oh, if thats the case then all i can say is they're VERY well greased which i believe is whats causing the smooth but tough sensation while spinning the hub
if thats the case though, should i open it up again one last time to force a heaps of grease into again just incase?
i found a tool to remove inner race bearings vin, this shop sells it pretty cheap. incase you need it :)
all good man ;)
http://img363.imageshack.us/img363/3...eel4qi0.th.jpg
turns out all the bearings are still good, i just need new spindle nuts :)