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Oooh I just noticed in your first post you said the check engine light is staying on after the prime. That's a good indication that the main relay isn't working. It will do exactly the same thing if you disconnect it. Hopefully it's the problem as it's an easy fix. GL
Okay, I checked the main relay, and there were a few bits of solder that had cracked. I soldered it up, re-installed it, and the fuel pump still wouldn't turn off. Then after I checked the relay again, I noticed a wire coming from one of the wires connecting to another wire under the dash. I cut the connecting wire, and now the pump primes, then turns off.
However, it still wouldn't actually start. I checked for spark again, at the dizzy cap and plugs, and its very weak. Any ideas now??
I'd say one problem is the cylinder's are still soaked in fuel. Leave the spark plugs out overnight so it can evaporate. Also did the engine check light go out finally?
When you say in your first post that you replaced the dizzy and rotor, did you mean the whole dizzy or just the cap?
Sorry, yeah dizzy cap. Check engine light always went out after a few seconds, even when the fuel pump didn't.
I'll leave the plugs out overnight, but it still doesn't explain why the spark is pretty much non existant now. I guess I'll have to replace the dizzy.
It seems oddly coincidental that it's doing it after fixing the dodgy repair. Next to the pins on th underside of the main relay are numbers embossed in the plastic.
http://z.about.com/d/autorepair/1/0/U/8/58835672.gif
This pic might help explain.
What number wires were actually jumpered together? I was assuming 5 and 7 as this would make it have constant power from the ignition to the fuel pump. But it may have been one of the other circuits that controls the actual switch inside. Which in turn may be playing some part if one of the ECU connection's are shorting out during the starter or running sequences. i.e. a bad earth.
But otherwise I can post up how to test the coil, ICM and leads if you dont already have it and wanna test it all out for yourself.
It was number 7 wire, but it lead under the dash a short way to another random wire. It seems to me like something dodgy has been done to the relay, as there is a piece of wire wrapped around the guts of it, seemingly holding it together! I mite put some pics up. But the pump is working now, so the relay is obviously fixed and working properly. It doesn't control any ignition components does it??
That would be good if you could tell me how to check the coil, etc. :D
It control's injector pulse so I'd assume it has some play in ignition firing.
There's a few different DIY's in the DIY section but I'll post up the pages out of the manual when I get home from work. I find it easier to follow.
Here's a DIY to tide you over in the meantime. So you get the idea.
The service manual is a bit more in depth.
Thanx :cool:
Here's the ignition system part of the EG manual you'll need to check your dizzy.
I just made it a pdf file and put it up on mediafire. It's 7mb. Sorry I took so long. Was making dinner :D
Well, after performing the tests on the ICM & coil, and showed up fine, I threw a new set of Platinum plugs in it, went over the timing once more, and eventually it roared to life!! I did as you said, and left the plugs out overnight, and cranked it for a while to get rid of any fuel in the chamber. It still took a good 5 or 6 goes before it actually started, but it seems to run fine now.
I'm still going to get my mechanic to give it the once over, and I have new leads on the way also, so it should go fine now *touch wood*
Thanks for all your help!! :thumbsup::wave::D
Awesome!
No worries mate