14 Attachment(s)
MINI-ME SWAP! y4 swapped with y8
This is to be used only as a guide. I or Ozhonda will not be liable for any damages/faults etc that could potentially result from this DIY. Please be careful, make sure to have good quality tools and keep yourself safe at all times.
Hey guys, I have successfully conducted a mini-me swap on a d16y4 gli. I was having doubts about this, but I went through with the idea anyway. First off, would like to thank my friends for helping me. There are 7 of them! you know who you are!
For all of you who want to feel vtec on a non-vtec car.. yes, you are able to experience it!
Item's that you'll need:
- y8 vtec head (mine didn't come with the camshaft oil seal, vtec solenoid)
- y8 head gasket, y8 exhaust gasket, y8 intake gasket, valve cover gasket, camshaft oil seal, spark plug gaskets
- VAFC2 controller/ any vtec rpm switch - much preferable if you have the VAFC controller
- d16y8 spark plugs
- new y8 timing belt (may consider getting one if it has been a long time since your change)
- vtec solenoid
- copper spray
- gasket sealant
- wide array of tools ranging from breaker bars, torque wrench, socket wrench, screw drivers, etc etc. Make sure you have the appropriate tools and the work space for it. It can get really messy.
Original parts that will work with the new head: y4 distributor, y4 spark plug leads, intake manifold, exhaust manifold, y4 cam gear, valve cover.
Do as much research as you can before starting! I never needed to ask for help on this topic except on wiring the vafc2 controller to the car's "black sheep ecu".
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Step 1: loosen left tire bolts. Jack up car and put it on jack stands.
Step 2: Remove left tire.
Step 3: remove splash guard underneath car (this is to stop coolant/oil from spilling everywhere).
step 4: drain coolant/engine oil. Wait for the fluids to drain out completely. (You have to keep in mind that when you take your y4 head off, it will still have some collection of oil that didn't get drained. As you take it out, it will mix with the collection of coolant that didn't get drained too in the cylinder sleeves).
Step 5: remove your intake pipe, spark plug leads from the valve cover and distributor, and place them to a side. Do not remove the leads from the distributor!
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Step 6: Unbolt your valve cover screws and take the valve cover off. Some may be hard to come off, so just knock it a few times. (it is very important that nothing gets dropped into the cylinder head before or after the swap!) Remove the necessary covers just beside the cam gear needed for removing the head.
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step 7: You should be able to see your cam gear and the valves. Now, you need to place your cam gear in top dead centre before removing the head. VERY IMPORTANT. Turn the crank bolt located in the left wheel well until the up on the cam gear is facing 12 o'clock.
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Step 8: Unbolt the screws that are attached to your fuel rail. They are the ones that are mounting your fuel rail on the the intake manifold. Be sure to gently remove the fuel rail as the fuel injectors that are attached to it are fragile.
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Step 9: Now unbolt your exhaust heat shield and exhaust manifold. There is a sequence to follow. Get your Honda manual or a helms manual. I used a Honda manual
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Step 10: Do the same with the intake manifold. There is a sequence to follow too.
NOTE: We were only able to remove the exhaust manifold by removing the bolts that join the manifold to the down pipe so that we had some leverage to it slide out.
Step 11: We had to unbolt the power steering mount bracket so that the old head was completely free for removal.
Step 12: Remove the radiator hose connecting to the cylinder head. We had to unbolt the coolant funnel and reuse it on the new head as it didn't come with one.
Step 13: unbolt your headstuds. There is a sequence to follow.
Step 14: Remove your cylinder head. There are 2 small hollow cylinder shaped pins that will be removed as well. Be sure to keep track of them in case they fall out just as you are pulling the head off. (at this point, a whole heap of oil may spill and mix with the left over coolant. So just be mindful of this and be sure to flush your coolant after the swap). Take the gasket off and put it somewhere.
Step 15: clean your pistons and make sure to clean the surface to where your new head will be mounted on.
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Step 16: Replace the gaskets on all the parts listed and just put them all back. Be mindful of the torque specs and sequence needed when bolting the bolts back up.
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(if applicable) Step 17: Bolt the vtec solenoid to the back of the cylinder head. There is a port specifically suited for it. It uses 6 x 45 flange bolts. Torque it up!
Complete! you successfully have just completed an engine head swap! but wait!! now you need to wire your VAFC2 controller to your ecu.
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Here are a few guides on how to wire them up:
1. ecu pinout: http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...P2K-ecu-pinout
2. VAFC wiring: http://www.civicforums.com/forums/17...tructions.html
3. VAFC VTEC wiring: http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1628016
keep researching if you haven't a clue, or pay someone to do it! This goes for the engine head swap too!
All information on P2K ECU pinouts has been provided by ECU-MAN!
The RPM wire (Green) is important as it will signal your VAFC to activate VTEC! So be sure to wire it to Connector A pin 21 YEL/GRN or do it my way and wire it to your tachometer.
VTEC JUST KICKED IN YO! BWWWAAAAAHHHH!!
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