Coolant and Air temp sensor error with OBD1 swapped H232a

Gday guys,
I am struggling with an H22a swapped EG, i swapped the b series loom onto the motor (in the car) which starts and runs fine but once the car goes through its cold start cycle the car turns off and the ecu cuts fuel pump signal (guessing a limp mode)

We chipped a P28 and got a s300 Hondata installed to see what we were dealing with, what this told us is that both coolant temp sensor and Air temp sensor are reading over 300F and the car thinks its getting hot. but in fact its just getting to temp. So before i go and throw new sensors at it in a blind attempt to keep trying to fix it. i thought i would post it up to see if anyone has had experience with this issue before.

My thoughts are:

Both temp sensors are faulty (is that weird for them both to go)
My DIY b series loom swap is cooked and i have zigged when i should of zagged
The sensors need calibrating on the hondata (although it was the same issue with stock P28)

Any advice or direction would be great, thanks guys.

I would go with "

My DIY b series loom swap is cooked and i have zigged when i should of zagged

" when the ECU detects a major issue it will trigger limp mode and register a fault code. Limp mode almost always runs the car at a max or 3 to 4K RPM, since your engine is cutting out you have more than likely wired something into the wrong location or have some sensors connected into the wrong locations.

A common mistake is to connect the MAP to the TPS, or connect the IAT to the Purge Canister solenoid (destructive to the IAT)

Check your ECT with this link
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...ics-Code-6-ECT

Check your IAT with this
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...cs-Code-10-IAT

It is important you test the actual sensors and the continuity back to the ECU to confirm the correct wiring and pin location for the sensor. It is unlikely you have dead sensors.

Thanks for the quick replay mate. I will run a test on the pin out tonight. Before the car gets “hot” it revs fine and vtec engages which to me seems weird as if there is a fault the ecu would put a rev limit in it and disable vtec.

What codes do you get in the ECU

No fault codes from the ecu, unless I unplug the sensors, That’s why I am loosing my hair

Update for those playing at home. We have found some dodgy engine bay earths which were causing intermittent signal drops to the ecu and sensors.

The ground point on the thermostat housing is the ECU's main ground point and its vital for correct operation, thus making the gearbox strap equally important.