DC2R Gearbox issues

Hi Everyone,

I have an issue which is baffling me with my 2000 DC2R (142000klm).

Last April I changed my clutch to an Exedy Sport as I could feel the original clutch (also an exedy sport)was not as positive as it should be and getting a bit noisy from the bearing.

Also I was starting to experience a 2 really weird things, the first being that when starting the car in neutral,it would slowly creep forward, and when reversing and letting the clutch out, would suddenly grip wuith a thump and while reversing, if you push the clutch in, the car would jerk to a stop as if it suddenly got to the end of a bungee cord.

So at Christmas, I changed the fluid to Motul gear oil as the mechanic had originally used a Valvoline one and this seemed to solve the reversing issues (not completely) but then I started getting 2nd to 3rd crunching of the gears when changing, and when cold it certainly didnt like going from 3rd to 2nd but once the car warmed up this was OK. and if you start the car in neutral it could drive out of the garage by itself..

So now, last weekend I changed the fluid again to Honda MTF and the 3rd gear crunch gone completely, but when the car is cold it still will not change from 3rd down to 2nd until the car is stopped or warmed up, and the reversing bungee cord issue is back with a vengeance. Negligible creeping forward now in neutral.

I have been trying to work out whats wrong, and it all sounds like it will be expensive, as I think there could be some diff issue, and who knows what for the cold gear change refusal.

A mechanic friend will be looking at it tomorrow, he thinks something has broken or come loose which could be causing one of the gears to bind against the idler gear when reversing.

Any ideas?

As the engine needs rings etc, was hoping to maybe just get another engine and box complete, but if I rebuild the box should be good for another 140K.

Thanks
Chris

might be one of three bent shift forks
might be incorrectly installed clutch or release bearing
might be missing internal bits to the box - creating tolerance issues (like missing thrust washer)etc

Drop the box and find out.

adjust clutch pedal?
bleed clutch hydraulics?

To find out, it sounds that the box has got to come out, but before dismantling the box, I would dismantle the clutch and check for weak or bent fingers in the pressure plate. Your mechanic friend should be able to spot or test for this.

At this stage I have someone going to Japan at the end of the month who will find a half cut for me, this way I can fix the engine and box in one go. Then I will pull the box apart to find out what went wrong as my particular issue does not show up anywhere on the internet, But would like to know if the reverse idler gear is somehow misaligned or missing teeth. So hopefully by babying the car I can get through the next 2 months before doing the swap.

A very round about (and potentially expensive and risky) way of going about it.

Not really, my friend going runs a business importing half cuts and such to Australia, he will find a complete car for me then cut it up, which will make me cry a little, but he will check it thoroughly. On the good side, this will get me everything I need plus seats, rear trailing arms and brakes, exhaust and lots of bits, and for less than an engine + gearbox rebuild. Still dying to know whats wrong with my box as I just can't find anyone with the same problem, the internet has failed me..

Ah yes, the "it's not what you know, but who you know" advantage at work. Without having an Xray to see through the box etc, guess we'll all have to wait till it's out for a visual inspection. Don't forget to update us when you do.

I would personally rather drop my box , fix whatever issue and be happy than put more money on another unknown condition box.

it all depends on how much the front cut cost really
if it cost 2-3k its good

A missing tooth on the reverse idler would not cause the slingshot/surge. My bet is you've got one or more failed bearings and the thrust clearance is out, causing the input shaft to shunt forward/back as the clutch pressure is engaged/disengaged. This will cause intermittent gear crunches, shudders and so on. Pretty easy fix - needs a rebuild by someone who can set clearances correctly.