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Low budget – Std ECU
#1 – Lightweight flywheel
#2 – Heavy-duty clutch
#3 – Lower final gear (EG: ATS)
#4 – Intake (Modify stock air box, Injen or Mugen + 2mm oversize throttle. (65mm)
#5 – Header + cat-back exhaust system (TODA S2000 exhaust now available)
#6 – Spec A2 camshafts / valve springs / fuel pressure regulator (Increase fuel pressure to 4.6k)
148~152kw
Medium budget – Std ECU
#1 – Lightweight flywheel
#2 – Heavy duty clutch
#3 – Lower final gear (E.g.: ATS)
#4 – Intake (Modify stock air box, Injen or Mugen + 2mm oversize throttle. (65mm)
#5 – Header + cat + cat-back system
#6 – Spec A2 camshafts / valve springs / adjustable cam pulleys / 2.2L stroker kit (basic) / fuel pressure regulator (Increase fuel pressure to 4.6k)
or
TODA 2.2L crate engine (as above)
High budget – best power delivery
#1 – Lightweight flywheel
#2 – Heavy duty clutch
#3 – Lower final gear (E.g.: ATS)
#4 – Intake (Modify stock air box, Injen or Mugen + 2mm oversize throttle. (65mm)
#5 – Header + cat-back system
#6 – Ported head / Spec A2 camshafts / valve springs / adjustable cam pulleys / 2.2L stroker kit (with rods) / fuel pressure regulator (Increase fuel pressure to 4.6k) / ECU / Dyno tuning
or
TODA 2.2L crate engine (as above)
Maximum effort (extreme budget)
#1 – Lightweight flywheel (Consider super single or twin plate carbon)
#2 – Heavy-duty clutch
#3 – Lower final gear
#4 – Intake (Modify stock air box, Injen or Mugen + 2mm oversize throttle. (65mm)
#5 – Header + cat-back system
#6 – Ported head / Spec B, C camshafts / valve springs/ Titanium retainers / shaved rocker arms / adjustable cam pulleys/ fuel pump / 2.4L stroker kit / fuel pressure regulator / injectors / ECU / dyno tuning.
Race engine - Improved production car / drag
TODA 2.4L crate engine (As used in ASM car)
Includes quad throttles / dry sump / exhaust manifold / Tuning data for Motec M800
300hp – guaranteed
Forced induction
Supercharged… (Ok, but inferior in every way to turbo)
#1 – Lightweight flywheel
#2 – Heavy duty clutch
#3 – Vortech / Comtech supercharger kit
#4 – Injectors / Fuel pump / fuel pressure regulator – linear / ECU (Not E-manage or piggy back)
#5 – Header + cat back system
#6 – Spec A2,B,C camshafts / valve springs / adjustable cam pulleys / 2.2L stroker kit (Turbo with rods)
Turbocharged. (Maximum effort)
#1 – Twin plate clutch
#2 – Heavy duty gear set & upgraded diff
#3 – Custom turbo kit *
#4 – Injectors / Fuel pump / fuel pressure regulator – linear / ECU (Not E-manage or piggy back)
#5 – Cat + cat back system
#6 – Spec A2,B,C camshafts / valve springs / adjustable cam pulleys / 2.2L stroker kit (Turbo with rods)
or
TODA 2.2L turbo crate engine.
*NB: Turbo shouldn’t be too small. This will cause excessive thermal stress on engine.
Bolt-on turbo to std engine, use 450hp turbo minimum.
Eg: HKS 3037S
Std engine will produce 190rwkw @ 6psi with correct set-up
NB: Some popular intakes are not as good as they appear. (Chose carefully)
High compression & low compression forged pistons are available in both 2.0L, 2.2L.
Forged NiCr connecting rods are also available for both 2.0L & 2.2L
Rear diff can present problems after fitting heavy duty clutch.
Hyper single clutches not recommended for daily drivers
Much work needs to be done to improve handling of vehicle.
High power outputs require stronger engine mounts.
Comment away...
Cheers
Adrian
By request,
Bang for your buck – DC5R
As with DC2, The DC5 is pretty fussy when it comes to mods that actually work…
On the race track… The following parts are must haves…
Oil cooler / low temp thermo fan switch…
If you can’t afford a good aftermarket radiator, at least fit a low temp thermostat.
Both are better…. Suspension & brakes also need to be addressed.
These aught to be addressed before you chase any extra HP.
As for getting more power, Honda’s are pretty fussy…
The actual parts combination is everything…
It must be put together exactly right… I can’t stress enough how important this is.
Once it’s put together right, it can be tuned… This also should be spot on…
The three work together, if 1 side has a weakness, power suffers…
Examples: Your pipe dream combination isn’t right… Power suffers…
Your mechanic doesn’t really know what he’s doing… Power suffers…
Even with perfect combination & assembly, with crap tuning… Power suffers...
NB: When fitting a heavy duty clutch to a DC5R, the front and rear engine mounts should be attended to.
That is fill them with sikaflex or use Mugen inserts / mounts.
This will avoid the inevitable knocking on the floor under the driver of the exhaust system.
Minimum budget – Just a bit quicker…
#1 – Intake - Never use a SRI of any brand – CAI only (Eg: INJEN / AEM / GruppeM)
#2 – Header + S2000 cat + cat-back system (60mm minimum)
Power output: 116 ~118kw @ wheels (Dyno dynamics- shootout)
Low budget – Sleeper (Quiet & quick)
#1 – Lightweight flywheel
#2 – Heavy-duty clutch
#3 – Lower final drive
#4 – Modified stock airbox (Aka Hondata)
#5 – Header + cat + JDM DC5R or Mugen cat back
#6 – Hondata K100
Power output: 120 ~122kw @ wheels (Dyno dynamics- shootout)
Low budget – never going to get an ECU
#1 – Lightweight flywheel
#2 – Heavy-duty clutch
#3 – Lower final drive
#4 – Intake - CAI's deliver superior results.(Eg: INJEN / AEM / GruppeM)
#5 – Header + S2000 cat + cat-back system (60mm minimum)
#6 – Spec A2 camshafts / valve springs / head gasket 0.3mm
Power output: 126 ~128kw @ wheels (Dyno dynamics- shootout)
NB: Add K100 ECU for 144~146kw
Low / Med budget – Never going to crack the engine open.
#1 – Lightweight flywheel
#2 – Heavy-duty clutch
#3 – Lower final drive
#4 – Intake - CAI's deliver superior results.(Eg: INJEN / AEM / GruppeM)
#5 – Header + S2000 cat + cat-back system (60mm minimum)
#6 – ECU + Dyno tuning
Power output: 128 ~132kw @ wheels (Dyno dynamics- shootout)
Medium budget – Hate noise & Stop @ ECU
#1 – Lightweight flywheel
#2 – Heavy duty clutch
#3 – Lower final drive
#4 – Intake – Modified stock / GruppeM or Pipe style CAI (NB: CAI loud @ WOT)
#5 – Stock exhaust system / or stock JDM DC5R exhaust system
#6 – Spec A2 camshafts / valve springs/ 0.3mm head gasket / ECU / dyno tuning / heavy duty engine mounts.
Power output: 136 ~138kw @ wheels (Dyno dynamics – shootout)
8600rpm rev limit
Medium budget – Stop @ ECU
#1 – Lightweight flywheel
#2 – Heavy duty clutch
#3 – Lower final drive
#4 – Intake – CAI's deliver superior results.
#5 – Header + S2000 cat + cat-back system
#6 – Spec A2 camshafts / valve springs/ 0.3mm head gasket (Compression up from 11.0:1 to 11.4:1 / Titanium retainers / ported head / JDM intake manifold / ECU / dyno tuning / heavy duty engine mounts.
Power output: 148 ~150kw @ wheels (Dyno dynamics – shootout)
9000rpm rev limit
High budget – best power delivery
#1 – Lightweight flywheel
#2 – Heavy-duty clutch
#3 – Lower final drive
#4 – JDM Intake manifold + CAI only
#5 – Header + S2000 cat + cat-back system
#6 – Ported head / Spec A2/B/C camshafts / valve springs/ Titanium retainers / adjustable cam gear - exhaust only / fuel pump / Forged pistons / Forged rods (For over 9000rpm) / injectors & fuel pressure regulator / ECU / dyno tuning / heavy duty engine mounts.
Nb: Additional head work that can/may need to be done includes shaving of rocker arms for cam clearance, re-shaping of valves, combustion chamber re-profiling.
Power output: 156+kw @ wheels (Dyno dynamics – shootout)
Products soon to be released...
- TODA Racing K20A 2.2L stroker kit
- TODA Racing K20A quad throttle sports injection
- TODA Racing K20A iVtec "Race" camshafts
- TODA Racing DC5R cat-back exhaust systems (Available now)
Race engine (Drag / Improved production car or better)
#1 – Lightweight flywheel (Consider twin plate / carbon )
#2 – Heavy-duty clutch
#3 – Lower final drive / transmission cross gear kit
#4 – Quad throttle sports injection + fabricated CAI duct / flue
#5 – Header + cat-back system
#6 – Ported head / Spec A2/B/C camshafts / valve springs/ Titanium retainers / adjustable cam gear - exhaust only / fuel pump / Forged pistons / Forged rods (For over 9000rpm) / injectors & fuel pressure regulator / ECU / dyno tuning / heavy duty engine mounts / baffled sump.
Power output: 165+kw @ wheels (Dyno dynamics – shootout)
Race engine – GTP production car (stock)
#1 – JDM flywheel & Exedy HD clutch
#2 – JDM exhaust manifold
#3 – JDM intake manifold
#4 – SPL (open) exhaust system
#5 – Std intake / stock air box – no modification permitted.
#6 – ECU / extensive dyno tuning / heavy duty engine mounts / baffled sump.
Power output: 120~122kw @ wheels (Dyno dynamics – shootout)
DC5 Base model – low budget
#1 – Lightweight flywheel
#2 – Heavy duty clutch
#3 – DC5R Gearbox & Lower final drive
#4 – Intake – CAI's deliver superior results.
#5 – Header + S2000 cat + cat-back system
NB: DC5R cat back can be used on base model with small mod to rear or base model cat.
Further modifying the airbox – Hondata style also adds a little power…
For those who aren't sure, automatic models do not have flywheels or clutches
Regarding modifying your car.
If you can’t afford to do it the right way, avoid the temptation to do something right now & save up until you can afford to get the right parts.
Obviously I recommend using only TODA products where they exist for the application.
Products from other manufacturers can be substituted with varying levels of effectiveness.
Ok… as before… Comment away...
Cheers
Adrian
TODA Racing Australia
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So you are recommending the first mod anyone does is to do the flywheel and clutch?
I'm guessing most ppl would automatically think Intake/Exhaust because they're easy to put on....
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Correct... You guess about most people is also correct...
The order things are listed in is in order of deminishing return on investment.
If you have to do things in stages or an order, this is what you aught to stick to...
Fwiw: I always reccomend flywheel, clutch & final drive sets over intake & exhaust because if you put the two cars next to each other.
The stock looking & sounding one, with only the flywheel, clutch & final drive;will chop the noisy bucket (Intake, header, exhaust only) every time...
It will do so, quickly, quietly and by a considerable margin.
For guys who only what a mild improvement to their car this is a sensible path...
There is no compromise to the reliability of the vehicle nor it's plain jane charater.
Adding the intake - header - exhaust after that is smarter.
You already have an efficient driveline, the small gains you get from bolt-ons will now take greater effect.
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Once a gain great info Adrian.
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HI Adrian ,
great info again , i noticed you stopped at the low budget for the dc5 base ( i can guse what the anser to this question will be ) any reason , also what kind of kw could you expect from he base dc5 with these mods couples with a vafc ii
thanks again ..
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How does a heavy duty clutch improve a straight line drag on a stock/near stock DC5R? I'm guessing it allows the clutch to bite at a higher launch speed? (I understand the flywheel & final drive bits)
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Whats a good final drive for the dc5r adrian? i got the impression that the stock final drive is very on already.
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ATS 5.06 final drive...
http://www.a-t-s.co.jp/atsgif/DC5finalgear.gif
*Gear ratio 6.3% lower than the stock.*the
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and that 6.3% is a major increase in the torquey feel :thumbsup:
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Where are you quoting your figures from?
I know of a DC5R with K&N SRI, BuddyClub 3 Exhaust and Hondata K-Pro pulloing consistent 138fwkw @8500rpm here in qld as well as a couple of DC5R's pulling around the 120kw mark with CAI or SRI and 2.25" exhaust and hondata manifold gasket.
And a 60mm exhaust i belive would be too big, BC3 isn't even 60mm or 2.5inch. Both CAI and SRI have the pro's and cons but powerwise there isn't a massive difference.
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Actually suprisingly 2.5"+ exhausts work well on the DC5R according to James from Hondata....
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What Adrian says is all true guys, like wise with FunkyR, DC5’s Love Large exhausts… hell in the US there using 4” now ! LOL now that’s crazy.
Adrian makes very valid points thow, upgrading your transmission to release extra power by changing the ratios by making the engine work harder makes more power sooner, it’s a great mod that will produce results and still look totally stock.
Of corse each to there own mod’s many people just do cheap cold air induction systems and an exhaust, because they want to show off…hell I have numerous people in Australia who want a stock car totally with just a ECU upgrade. Adrian’s just given his thoughts on how to release more power ;) YAY for Adrian.
The k20 DC5 is a great car, I love tuning them and I love releasing the power Honda hide for its owners.
At the end of the day it all comes down to $$ the more money you have the faster your car will be, give or take the correct knowledge in buying / tuning the correct parts.
Regards James
