Ghetto backyard Reverse Mounting BBS LM's

Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor Ozhonda take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!


Aim: Remounting the face of BBS LM's to get a bit more dish and some more offset.
Difficulty: Not very :p
Required:
- Threadlocker (Blue)
- 8mm 12 sided socket – not the normal ones, normal sockets wont fit the bolts.
- 10mm 12 sided socket
- Torque wrench
- 2 Socket wrench
- Metal polish / Steelo etc

Steps:

I did it with a tyres on the wheels, however you probably shouldn't. This is how I did it, and I've had no problems (been a few months now).

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net...01453437_n.jpg

So deflate the tyres so they're soft and there's no pressure in them that would either blow or deform the rim.

Get a marker and put a small dot on the face of the rim between the two bolts where the air valve is, so you can use line it up when you remount it.

Remove the bolts in a star pattern and then push the centre out (it may take some encouraging), and you'll have this.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net...64733323_n.jpg


Then you'll have to clean up the area that was covered by the face of the rim. I used some steelo and a rag. You can be as meticulous as you want here, but I wanted to do it quickly, as I plan to get them relipped later (since there are a few gutter rashes) and so I didn't scrub it all perfectly.


Then you’re going to want to remount the lip from the back. You’ll notice that the rim face has little recesses for the bolts, where they were tightened into before.

Some people I’ve read have had these machined flat, but I saw no need, the nuts have enough bolt to bite onto as far as I’m concerned, and we’ll be using threadlocker (blue) so there shouldn’t be any issues here.

Another reason I didn’t want them machined flat where the recesses are, is because you’re losing 3mm or so, which is going to work as another 3mm of aggressive offset :D

So start re-bolting up, remembering to line up the marker dot you put on the face to the air valve. This is so that the balancing of the wheels is altered as little as possible. You should still get the wheels re-balanced, especially if you start to notice any steering vibration whilst driving.

NB: When you bolt these back up, remember to put some threadlocker on the nut, and torque the bolts to around 19ft/lb (per BBS – thanks to http://dubberz.com/forum/index.php?topic=50644.0) and remembering to tighten in a STAR pattern.

Spin them all back up to tight, and then go round once on all the bolts to make sure you’re all tight.

Rinse and repeat for the rest of the wheels, and enjoy being a bit more baller than before.

Before and after
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net...90065415_n.jpg

Enjoy around 12-15mm lower offset, and slightly wider track!

Hope this helps some of you.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net...96440643_n.jpg

good work, will do when i get a set of LM's

That was very useful DuffyFD. Was wondering how much threadlock did you end up using? (approx in mL) for all rims ( 80 bolts all up right? ). Also do you remember how many threads you ended up applying it to, or 1 revolution enough.

I used a droplet on each. It will spread along the thread as you put the nut on. From the small bottle I have had enough to do it twice.

Yerp it's 20 bolts per wheel. And it's the blue lockthread

Great write up!
What product do you use to clean up the black residue from where the bolts are

Thanks mate.

I used Silvo (metal polish) however you can use any metal polish you like if you have polished lips like me.
Alternatively you should be able to use goo remover if you don't want yo damage the clear coat on them. A citrus based one should do the trick.

good thread


but you might wanna update the image links