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i jus finished a b18c type r swap into my ek1. running ek4 loom and standard type r ecu.
all is running well except i have now lost my tacho and possibly my temp gauge.
Has any one had this issue before and have any idea of what it could be. I've read of something to do with a little blue wire?
Never mind I've sorted that.
But now I'm having idling issues.
Whenever indicator is put on or brake lights, head lights etc. the engine bogs.
I think it's related to a dizzy problem that I have. But... Not sure
too much power drain... did you have to re-wire anything in the swap?
Check the alternator and the socket might be loose.
alternator was blowing a fuse due to emp from the main wire to the battery.
starter was also blowing same fuse through emp on the speed sensor.
who knew that having those wires too close would make a difference??
but after all this my spark disappeared yesterday just after making my previous post.
i have searched for ways of testing the ignitor and coil but cant find anything substantial to really know for sure.
i have constant power to the spring but i do not think that the icm is switching the ground on and off to make the spark.
i'm also wondering if the power drain is making a weak spark due to a bad ignitor or if it was just interference from the wires giving bad signals to the ecu.
i know that under load the alt kicks up a bit so could the cross talk have been causing the ecu to be confused?
and no. all wires were the exact same :/
you could check all earth points aswell.. that could be causing that issue.
test for a good ground by putting multimeter (red) on power and multimeter probe (black) on each earth you can find and check if you are getting ~12v. clean up and re-test.
umm to check the ignitor and coils you probably need to test for resistance through each coil and you need to find out what switches the coils to fire to where...
and it will probably be the ecu.
just trying to think of ways to test this.. :/ will come back with an answer
i have replaced the coil, icm and rotor. still no spark
gonna go through and try sorting out all my earths and see how i go
all earths look good.
waiting on a new cap.
still showing no cels
the part that is pissing me off is that it was running fine for two days. started a dozen times.
then stopped working once i got home :/
hmm yeah well something is drawing way too much current if your engine dies when you switch on your lights.. have you checked your battery with a multimeter yet? If not, do so now.
Put probes on appropriate + and - on battery and load up Voltage MIN / MAX. Make sure probes are not going to move if the car shakes. Start the car and check. Do this 3 times without headlights on and if it goes lower than 9.6V WITHOUT headlights on then you will just need to replace battery. That could be the issue aswell.
Keep us informed how you go.
But current .. hmm fcuk what could it be :/ You may have something wired to constant voltage rather than ignition voltage and that is causing power drain when accesories is turned on. Hmm, still thinking.
i have had issues with this battery before. i will try and hunt down another one to try. because i do remember that as the key turned over it was going from 12v down to about 9.
as for anything on constant nothing has changed since the engine swap except for the loom. but i will go through and check the entire thing
Yeah 9V is too low with the headlights off. A GOOD battery should hold OVER 9.6V with headlights ON for over a year. Check it out.. let us know, would be good to know what this could be.
trying another battery now. will let you know the results
im leaning towards a faulty alternator. you must have fried the diode inside the alternator.
if your battery isolation test fails, try using another known working alternator.
The alternator fuse is no longer blowing.
But I have a new battery and will give it a go later tonight.
Will it start if the alternator was disconnected??
It was the battery. The f'ing bull shit piece of crap battery. Who would think? i even think my idling issues have gone.
Time for a test drive and to go thrash some highway runs :p
HAHA.. took some time but we got there. Yes it will start if alternator is disconnected but will run for maybe 10 mins before it kicks out on you.
Don't forget to +rep ;)
take it back.
got about 5 mins away from home and started over heating, doesnt look like i have a fan. went to start back up and nothing. waited five mins and it started fine. the ****?
also have no reverse lights and still voltage drop.
thinking alternator but its showing its charging?
Wtf.. wow well that sure sucks. No reverse lights at all?
Hmm.. well just check the alternator is charging at the correct rate - should be ~13.6v at idle and up to ~14.2v when loading it up.
Was your fan working before? Check if fuses are blowing first as they are accessible and check globes. Were you reverse lights working before too?
yeah its about 14.5 at idle :/ never really checked while uunder load. but its charging now so hopefully ill get a kick tomorrow to check that out.
and yeah it was before the swap. think it was running before the spark issue too.
ill check all fuses romorrow also in case one has blown. had a cel but it only shows while running so i cant get the code :/
and reverse havent worked since before swap :/
this stinks :(
it was also revving real high without much movement, kinda like if the clutch is slightly in :/
Too many problems man.
Check fuses, check globes. Make sure it is all working. Supply power to your fans by using your battery and a 'paper clip' to send power to the fan and ground it to a earth on the body.
Reverse hasn't worked before the swap well.. that has to be fixed.
So you would have it in gear but with little / no movement even when you had clutch off and accelerator pushed in?
ill look everything over once more tommorrow and will let you know
but thinknig illvjust hardwire the fan into accessories.
who would be best to talk to about voltage drop in the dc2??"
All fuses good. All grounds are good.
I'm now getting a cel for intake air temp sensor
i've begun to notice that the battery light stays light while i try to turn it over.
meaning low battery?? or charging system having issues??
when i check the volts its at 12.9.
I'm getting to the point where im almost tempted to just take it to a mechanic and spend the last of the money i have left :/
just tried starting with multimetre on to check for drop. started straight up.
have a hunting idle going from 1,000 to 1,500.
he forgot to say he chopped and paste multiple looms to make this work
lol lan
cut one loom as stated in the first post.
all trolling kept off this post please
ek9, ek4 and a cxi loom ?
ek9 was taken out and ek4 loom was put in. ek1 loom was sold with the engine.
if you're not going to help please go somewhere else.
ek9 was two piece and obd2b, as stated in the thread. useless
ek1 loom has no vtec and is neiter obd2a nor b. can not be used so was sold
ek4 loom bought of vincent and installed. he also hung around for several hours trying to help me out.
as did luke schubert and martin.
big thanks to the others that have tried helping me. but unfortunately the issue is still not resolved and still have no idea.
any and all help/ideas are welcome. banter and trolling is not wanted
cant help if you don't tell people what you have done, if its all original oem loom it makes it easier to fix.
but if you have chop and paste plugs and the loom its another story
what codes is it throwing ? post those up
Deleted
now throwing a code ten
videos of while running.
there hasnt been any plugs chopped and pasted. all loom has only been extended
Is this your first conversion? If using an ek4 loom it's all plug and play I've done it many of times without failing also make sure you have three strong earths. So have you checked the spark pull a plug out and put it in the lead and hold against the motor and crank it should see the plug sparking if you do you know it's sparking. But if this is your first conversion should have gotten a few guys to help you who knows what they are doing
could you read through the thread before posting please.
spark has been checked. loom is all original bar 1m of wire inbetween each.
3 earths correct. 1 gauge from head to body, battery to body and trans to body.
these were already upgraded due to voltage drop from sound system before the swap was done
and was done on my own with help of one other mate due to know one wanting to help.
im guessing rpm wire not connected properly?
troubleshoot your icm a20 obd2a
http://www.honda-tech.com/attachment...1&d=1265671659
brand new icm, brand new coil, brand new rotor, brand new battery.
collecting new distributor cap tomorrow to test
rpm wire is not at fault. the loom i had didnt have a wire in it for the tachometre. i have wired one in and have revs back up.
voltage issue was before and after.
d i a g n o s e
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...gnostics-Codes
already know what 10 is. iat sensor.
Didnt i say that too? :p
OMG just trash the ****ing car
OMG just trash the ****ing car
And the first trolls. THUPER!!
if anyone has had the same or similar issue of coming and going spark can you please tell me :(
nice cluster
i like it. easier to read
I don't know if it's related but in my cxi when I changed to a cluster with tacho it wouldn't read properly.
Tacho ran slow (about 1000rpm lag). I put back the original cluster and just use an RSM. Much better!
Bit rude don't you think dorikin some people on here being genuine and this dude just rude to people no wonder car ain't goingQuote:
Originally Posted by Dyln.bxtr
agree. and yes everybody this is his very first conversion and he used a guide from the internet to get his d series non vtec out of his car.Quote:
Originally Posted by 89lude
Please ignore these two as I'm fairly sure they are from another group I'm on.
An how is it rude? I was nearly pointing out the fact that I had already said it.
As for the tachometer it's back working again.
It was already working before the swap.
Doing the swap from forums was due to no one I knew wanting to help. So to the forums just like many others.
Hence why I'm back on the forums to ask for help to fix my unique problem not only to help me but hopefully someone else when they google the issue they're having.
I'm stripping out the entire loom tomorrow and checking for any breaks in the loom where a stray wire may be loose and causing a short. If nothing then I'm going to check and make sure that I have every single wire perfect and spot on.
Also please refrain from posting if you're not going to help and just creating banter. It not only irritates me but takes away from the main issue and shifts focus from helping to being a toss
And dyinghearts has got to be sachi
wrong mate. sachi did tell me about it. and he doesnt know about this yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dyln.bxtr
loool
Do you even lift?
hows everything going?
hey op your problem sounds almost like mine i jus finished a b18c type r swap into my ek1. running ek4 loom and standard type r ecu.
all is running well except i have now lost my tacho and possibly my temp gauge.
Has any one had this issue before and have any idea of what it could be. I've read of something to do with a little blue wire?
There's a blue wire that goes from the tachometer to the cabin harness plug on the drivers side. There is also a little brown grounding wire that goes from the same plug back to the Ecu
Also it sounds you just took my post word for word....
The problem was immobiliser.
Someone had ripped the PCB chip off the ecu board rather than bypassing correctly.
Has now been fixed and is waiting on a knock sensor before tracking it.