Yes sir
There is a diy guide somewhere on this site, search for ECU-MAN
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Yes sir
There is a diy guide somewhere on this site, search for ECU-MAN
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I've found this
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/archive...p/t-48704.html
Seems easy enough. Just hope that is the issue.
Hi fellas, I followed that thread and got the trusty soldering iron out. Car starts and runs fine. The engine check light stays on but I'm guessing that was always going to be an issue.
Booked in for an exhaust system next week. It's running Xforce headers and I was going to get a high flow cat and 2.1/4 system through to the back. If anyone has any input on alternatives I'm all ears. A tuner I spoke to earlier in the year said 2.1/2 but for some reason the exhaust shop thinks it's funny. Says he puts 2.1/2 on his V8's so wasted on a 1.8.
A HUGE thanks to those that offered advice and the helpful threads I searched and gained valuable information. Absolutely sensational information in this forum which I couldn't have completed this job without.
Thank you
Good work getting it going.Quote:
Originally Posted by aldo10
Most exhaust shops won't know anything about Hondas.
The stock type r is 57mm after the headers (2.25") tapering to 54mm for the rear axle back section.
2.25" is fine for a stock engine, 2.5 will just be louder.
What is the size of the collector on the x force headers? If it's 2.25 there's not much point getting a 2.5" cat back except for sound. Just make sure you get a decent cat converter and muffler so it isn't strangled too much.
Thanks, I'll check the header size.
I couldn't wait till next Wednesday so I got some fencing wire and wired the B18B system to the Xforce headers. It was also a good test because that means I don't have to trailer it to the shop.
Gets to 6K on the tachometer and cuts out intermittently.
I'm still running the B18B fuel pump. Could it be starving for fuel? The manual shows the B18C7 pump puts out significantly higher flows.
You might want to check the code your ecu is putting out as to why it is not running correctly at high rpm, Vtec should engage somewhere around 6k (someone chime in here with the exact point).Quote:
Originally Posted by aldo10
Check your wiring diagrams for the gsi vs type r, have you added wiring for Vtec solenoid? There may be some other differences depending on what year your gsi is, get that and your ecu codes sorted before looking into the fuel pump.
Thanks RC. Will do. I remember when pulling out the B18B that the firewall loom had wires that the engine loom didn't/had blanked so I was hoping for the best but not to be.
The saga continues ....
Would someone have a simplified link/thread that I could read or view? I have been googling "wiring up Vtec solenoid" and it's confusing. A lot of the stuff I'm reading is for B16 Vtec engines in Civics etc. not sure if it's all the same.
I keep reading this OBD1 OBD2 business? Confusing.
On the HAmotorsports site I found this;
"On your engine harness, locate the Vtec oil pressure switch wire (this wire comes from the OBD1 ECU pin D6). Simply tap this into the Vtec solenoid valve wire (the Vtec solenoid wire comes from OBD1 ECU pin A4). Do not cut the Vtec solenoid wire, simply connect the pressure switch wire to it.
That's it??
Sounds too easy
No, this will not necessarily be it.Quote:
Originally Posted by aldo10
First, what year is your chassis? You need to determine which obd version it is. Then you will know what is included in the cabin wiring harness.
If your engine is an AUDM version and you are using the original engine harness then you have an obd2a harness and if you have the original ecu it will also be obd2a.
If they are both the same obd version then all you have to do is check compare an obd2a ecu pin out to what is in your cabin harness and add any that you don't have. A good idea would be to use a multimeter to check the wiring continuity from the sensor plug back to the ecu plug.
Here is an example of what may need to be added for Vtec in a non Vtec chassis
http://www.d-series.org/forums/n00b-...5368?_k=qjgisg
If you're lucky the wiring you need might already be there and you could have another problem. Some models may have included redundant wiring to commonise harnesses between models. Someone who has actually done a swap like this might need to chime in.
I'd be checking the ecu codes first anyway, they will tell you what is missing.
Thanks RC. My chassis is 1996, Type R engine/box/engine loom/ECU are out of a 1999.
I seem to have found the VTEC solenoid wire on the passenger shock tower. The cabin harness side of the plug is blank. I will trace back the other wires to see what I can find this evening.
If the chassis is 96 it should be obd2a, but I think some early 96 may still have been obd1 so that is worth checking.Quote:
Originally Posted by aldo10
Pretty sure you will just need Vtec solenoid, Vtec pressure and knock sensor wired in.