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ek b18c swap problems
i jus finished a b18c type r swap into my ek1. running ek4 loom and standard type r ecu.
all is running well except i have now lost my tacho and possibly my temp gauge.
Has any one had this issue before and have any idea of what it could be. I've read of something to do with a little blue wire?
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Never mind I've sorted that.
But now I'm having idling issues.
Whenever indicator is put on or brake lights, head lights etc. the engine bogs.
I think it's related to a dizzy problem that I have. But... Not sure
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too much power drain... did you have to re-wire anything in the swap?
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Check the alternator and the socket might be loose.
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alternator was blowing a fuse due to emp from the main wire to the battery.
starter was also blowing same fuse through emp on the speed sensor.
who knew that having those wires too close would make a difference??
but after all this my spark disappeared yesterday just after making my previous post.
i have searched for ways of testing the ignitor and coil but cant find anything substantial to really know for sure.
i have constant power to the spring but i do not think that the icm is switching the ground on and off to make the spark.
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i'm also wondering if the power drain is making a weak spark due to a bad ignitor or if it was just interference from the wires giving bad signals to the ecu.
i know that under load the alt kicks up a bit so could the cross talk have been causing the ecu to be confused?
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and no. all wires were the exact same :/
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you could check all earth points aswell.. that could be causing that issue.
test for a good ground by putting multimeter (red) on power and multimeter probe (black) on each earth you can find and check if you are getting ~12v. clean up and re-test.
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umm to check the ignitor and coils you probably need to test for resistance through each coil and you need to find out what switches the coils to fire to where...
and it will probably be the ecu.
just trying to think of ways to test this.. :/ will come back with an answer
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i have replaced the coil, icm and rotor. still no spark
gonna go through and try sorting out all my earths and see how i go
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all earths look good.
waiting on a new cap.
still showing no cels
the part that is pissing me off is that it was running fine for two days. started a dozen times.
then stopped working once i got home :/
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hmm yeah well something is drawing way too much current if your engine dies when you switch on your lights.. have you checked your battery with a multimeter yet? If not, do so now.
Put probes on appropriate + and - on battery and load up Voltage MIN / MAX. Make sure probes are not going to move if the car shakes. Start the car and check. Do this 3 times without headlights on and if it goes lower than 9.6V WITHOUT headlights on then you will just need to replace battery. That could be the issue aswell.
Keep us informed how you go.