Depends on who puts it together, head combo, clearances, bolt-ons etc etcQuote:
Originally Posted by Fly-Rice
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Depends on who puts it together, head combo, clearances, bolt-ons etc etcQuote:
Originally Posted by Fly-Rice
What an interesting read this thread is…Quote:
Originally Posted by Fly-Rice
Some good info & some tall stories. (with no doubt more to come)
The 120kw B20 Vtec is a real thing… No question…
A 130~135kw unit isn’t rocket science either.
But the ones pushing 150+kw & the few that get past 160kw… LOL…
Yeah… If you did your research online, it would seem almost anyone can build a 150+kw B-series these days...
Any & every parts re-seller is able to recommend the correct combination of parts…
The fact that they have never done it or know nothing about building & tuning an engine will escape most customers. (Not good to think like that)
Now days, any machinist will do too… Nothing special required here either…
Head porting is also apparently now a breeze too…
Seems just anyone & everyone can do this at the required level now too.
**cough** Bullshit!
Now, where are all these easy build 150+kw N/A B-Series engines?
The answer is no-where…
Reality is that there are not many people in this country who can actually lay claim to be able to build one of these things…
Not just build a one shot wonder, but build one that lasts & will do a season or even 2…
More to the point, there are few who have actually done it…
Saying you can & actually doing it are two entirely different things…
Including myself, I can think of 3 people off hand…
One talks about himself in the 3rd person.
Hard to pick if you didn’t know, but I know…
The other wouldn’t ever bother coming on here. (& I’m starting to understand why… LOL)
Anyone else on here, to be frank just doesn’t have the runs on the board to lay claim to such an output (N/A) from that engine type.
The funny thing is, nothing has really changed in the last 10 years to make the task any easier.
The requirements remain the same…
Parts used need to be good if not excellent & the combination is critical.
The machining needs to be the best money can buy.
You really should spare no expense here as any cost cutting here will hurt you badly. This is a fact.
The assembly must also be spot on, with everything sorted on the engine stand.
The tuning must also be spot on…
That’s easy too cause apparently everyone’s a tuner now too…
Combination is everything… & it’s not just the parts…
It’s parts, machining, assembly & tuning… the whole package.
Any deficits show up as low output.
A funny thing happens when everything leading up to the tuning is spot on…
No matter what… You pull the string the damn thing just spanks out power…
The more you lean on it, the better it gets & it loves it.
That same can’t be said for any of these low budget pipe dreams out there.
In cases that are half-arsed, you spend all day sorting out stupid problems before the thing is even ready for a tune… Nothing goes right & to battle for every horsepower.
Get it right & the thing is awesome…
(There are quite a few combo's that work - but there are more that don't)
Get it wrong & the net result… WOFTAM
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=116255
great info above there - dare i say from the only legit professional builder.
To TODA AU and all others - due to increased obvious torque - is the need for a higher final drive or shorter gear ratios etc NEEDED ? Im sure a standard gsi or vtir or ek4 (for example) gearbox suit it fine right ?
Thanks for stating the obvious Adrian
I would go up on final drive, to hit the numbers you want, i'd hunt a 4.9FD. Regardless of torque you make, the higher the figures you produce and the higher FD you go, just add more wheelspin.
edit: I always find it funny how Adrian says his essay like posts, they are nice and short in blocks LOL, not having a dig at you but it cracks me up :).
talk about plugs and advertising lol...
to be honest if i install hi-comp pistons,forged rods, hi-lift cams, port cnc my head, vavle train etc, and if i dont get close to 150kw ill chuck my motor in the bin.. when people say its so hard to get this kw , its only because the parts arent used. Its probly a stock build with cams you need everything to make it hit 150kw. That includes the required bolt ons, ie ITB's , injectors, large enough throttle and extractors
take it easy dude, dont get ahead of yourself on that statementQuote:
Originally Posted by GSi_PSi
lol okay ozhonda, B18C is too fast, dont waste your money and time with b20's.....
man, no1 is saying b20vtec is slow
but don't get to excited mate, the way you TALK up b20vtec is lyk a GTR engine
nahhhh bro im excited B18C will eat the GTR engine,
here here :PQuote:
Originally Posted by GSi_PSi
Depends on what you're doing with the car...Quote:
Originally Posted by bennjamin
For a roadie / daily driver, yes the VtiR or EK4 box is just fine...
For the odd track day & a bit of fun.
Just use a B18CR gearbox & be done with it.
But if you're racing & want to win,
As with any track car. you'll need to look a gear ratio's & final drive.
Also going shorter in the final drive isn't always the answer.
On circuit cars, we often go the other way... 4.0, 4.2 or 4.4 final drive combined with close ratio gear kit.
Quote:
Originally Posted by GSi_PSi
You don’t actually need quads to get there…
Done right, they can be a big help. But done wrong they can be the opposite.
It’s all about combination. & it’s a holistic combination, not just parts.
& in the respect, real experience here is pay-dirt
General law of physics dictates that an increase in displacement will net more torque and power, so yes a B20vtec is "quicker" than a B18, i'll leave it at that.
I'd like to see some input regarding intake system, particularly the way the air is fed to the intake, ie - feed, filter/airbox, intake arm.
What is your experiance with different designs?