what shafts would be needed? are D and B series shafts the "same"?
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what shafts would be needed? are D and B series shafts the "same"?
they are different
nope they are different and would need b series shafts..
and also the reason why bit og the b20s over the states blow up is casue some use shit quality parts, use used dodgy parts, or go half assed. some dont even tune it properly.
and preparation/assembly of engine
alot of discussion about pro's and cons
but still waiting for prices for a complete average turn key b20 that makes a avg 120kw atws on a average dyno
gsi psi what did you set up cost ?
i like the b20 and interested in its dollar value compared to its power out put and reliability
b20 is it a poormans k20?
like ls vtec is poor mans type r
Thats how i feel about it... maybe not as quick as a k20 but should hold its own from what ive seen on honda-tech etc
im starting my project from a sir-g b18c so it will be alot more simple for me then those going from the d series or b18bs
I know the veriables will differ from car to car and driver to driver but about what 1320 time is expected from a fully street car built b20 vtec? im hoping for mid 13s on street radials with an eg...
H2B is poor man K series as well. its how its built is what determines the reliability. i do like the idea of B20 too.
i found it quite heartening to hear recently that my first B20VTEC i built back ages ago is still running! not sure where, but it is apparently still strong...
i revved that pretty hard and the key i think to its longevity is perhaps how it is still basically OEM honda inside... (ran 13.7 @101mph at WSID)
i think the more important aspect is not who BUILT - it but who TUNED it...
IMO - poor tuning breaks B20's, not high RPM/side-load/RS ratio etc...
both guys who handled my tuning knew what to do, so make sure if you do a B20VTEC - get it tuned by a experienced tuner...
BTW - instead of re-inventing the wheel, guys have a read of this thread before asking simple questions:
http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1676914
Abit of both definately, but I also think its more the mentality of the modifier. Modifiying for most of us is a journey, an adventure. We want to do it the hard way but its our own. So we look for something relatively stock and then work our way up from there, whether the end product is a B20 or a Built B18C. Buying someone's elses B20 or built B18 kinda defeats that purpose - But I will caveat that with, unless of course, the price is right.
To Chris, a typical JDM Integra Type R half cut is around $5K now - Simple to plug and play into any EFI civic, a B20, if you're totally starting from scratch, will cost a fair bit more, especially when you consider you need ECU, tuning, gearbox, driveshafts - pretty sure that while the engine is out, you'd want pistons etc etc - and then at least another grand more (and thats probably a cheap price) if you get someone to build it.
I agree that everything will be "brand new", never disputed that, but my point is that its not as cheap as made out to be. I also agree that if you have a current B series that needs rebuilding, a B20 would probably be the way to go.
so B16A half-cut = 1500-2000, then 600 for a B20 block, 800 for rebuild parts (water pump, timing belt, headgasket, ARP rod bolts, OEM seals, fuel reg, oil line), then 1000 for ECU & tuning...
then another 1000 for other/extra bits (cams/IM) and you are up to the cost of a standard JDM ITR engine... but you have the power and drivability of a B20VTEC...
i know which one i'd prefer!
Thats one way to go about it... :-)