Comprehensive Ek Civic Led Cluster and Climate control Conversion *Updated 22/07/11*

Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor Ozhonda take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!


Aim: To get rid of the dated amber dash lights and replace with leds

Required:
Screwdrivers
Soldering iron
Acetone
Rags
Cotton tips
Resistors 1/2 watt usually 470R-680R (depending on your led choice, Google Led resistor calculator if you dont know how to work it out)
T10, T5 and 3mm Leds

Wedge bulbs:
Ek cluster: 6 T5's and 1 T10(T10 holder can be modified to accept T5 so you can use all the same leds for even lighting)
Climate control: 2 T5's
Ashtray: 1 T5
Automatics have 1 T5 in the shifter surround thing

3mm leds:
Gear indicator in the auto cluster: 7
Climate control: 7
Demistor switch: 2
Hazard switch: 1


Step 1: Removing dash parts
You need to remove all the dash components that you will be working on the Cluster, Climate control, hazard button and rear demister switch.
I have marked out the screw locations on the picture below with a red circle and the 2 panels to be removed with red arrows.
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/...IMAG0484-1.jpg
Once you have removed the screws from above, take the 2 panels off to reveal the next set of screws.

Now you can remove the 4 screws and 4 connectors(manual might be 3 connectors) from the cluster and it will come out. Pics below, Screws are marked red, Connectors are yellow.
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/...IMAG0488-1.jpg

Now you need to remove the glovebox and both the hazard and demister switches so you can get at the next set of screws marked below. Note The Hazard and Demister swtiches can be removed with a trim removal tool or a flat head screwdriver by levering the outer edge of the switch, I have marked out the position i levered mine out from with yellow arrows. Becareful not to scratch or dent the plastic when using a flathead screwdriver. Heres a video as some people seem to be having trouble getting the hazard/demister switches out. http://youtu.be/CWAPDa3KQ7A
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/...IMAG0486-2.jpg

After removing all the screws you can remove the lower panel, when you pull the panel down there is a connector attached so unclip it then remove the panel. Note: you can now change the ashtray light(T5).
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/...AG0491-1-1.jpg
Once that panel is gone you will reveal yet more screws and a blue cable(marked with a blue arrow). Note: The Red Arrow is pointing to a screw inside the dash thats at the back of the AC unit, If you lay in the foot well and look up into the dash you should see a gold/brass screw going into white plastic, its right near the factory headunit screws. it can be seen in the headunit video at 0:09.http://youtu.be/obUaMUpAMEk

http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/...IMAG0493-1.jpg
Unclip the blue section from the holder and Pull the silver wire down. Note the red arrow is the direction you pull the cable down once you have unclipped the holder which has the yellow arrow pointing to it. Video http://youtu.be/qBmFsmv9y6g

Now you can remove the head unit. The standard factory unit has 2 screws on the bottem of the headunit behind the ac unit(lye on the floor and look up into the dash behind the Ac unit) then it has an 2 connectors to unclip and its out,Video http://youtu.be/obUaMUpAMEk.
If its an aftermarket unit you should know how to remove it.

Once the headunit is out there will be a conector for the clock and 2 for the Climate control then you will be able to remove The whole centre section with the Climate control attached. Once its out there is 2 screws in the back of the centre section that you need to undo to get the Climate control off the centre section.


If you followed the steps properly, your dash will now look destroyed, now for part 2.
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/...IMAG0495-1.jpg


Step 2 Climate control

Get your Climate control and with a flat head screwdriver remove the buttons from the unit, There is a small hole on the underside of the button that fits a flathead perfectly.
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/...IMAG0504-1.jpg

Now remove the 5 screws.
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMAG0506.jpg

Now use the flat head to leaver up the white clips untill the white section comes loose.
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/...IMAG0507-1.jpg

Now you can remove the last 2 screws. Note you can replace the two T5 leds now which are marked with the arrows, These are the leds that backlight the Climate control.
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/...IMAG0510-1.jpg

Now you just solder in new 3mm leds, becareful not to make them too long as when you press the vent button it can hit the led and break the connection. Ive marked out the positive side to help but it says it on the other side of the circut board anyway.
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/...IMAG0513-1.jpg

Once your done follow the guide backwards to put it back together.

Note: once your done plug in your Climate control and check all the leds are working before you screw it back in, if they arnt just turn the bulb holder or the bulb 180 degrees as leds are polarised, if your soldered leds arnt working check you connections and polarity.

Step 3 Cluster
If you have an auto use this link for the gear selector. http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...=1#post3043745

Undo the 7 clips and remove the clear cover.
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/...IMAG0521-1.jpg

Undo the 9 clips and the left T5 bulb holder to remove the black covers.Note switch the T5 leds now.
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/...IMAG0526-1.jpg

Now the fronts open flip it round and change out the bulbs for leds(Blue circles) and undo the screws(Red circles) to get your gauges out. Note if you have an auto you will need to undo the clips(yellow circles) to reveal the screws and bulb.
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/...AG0528-2-1.jpg

Once you have your gauges grab a light(i used an led torch but a fluro light would be good) and check if the light comes through white or amber, if you have a clear/white set of gauges you can skip this step as this is just to remove the Amber diffuser on the back of the gauges. if the light comes through amber whip out some acetone, cotton tips and a rag and work on the backside of the dials. Becareful not to get any on the front of the dial or it will peal off, acetone is like plastic paint stripper.
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/...IMAG0531-1.jpg

I just did the outer edge of the gauge and left the centre black, i used lots of cotton tips in a quick small back n forth motion dipping in a small bowl of acetone to keep it wet and used the rag to wipe off the excess chunks and to do a final wipe. You can try and do better if you like but this works and you dont need to remove the needles this way.
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/...IMAG0536-1.jpg

Repeat with the speedo and fuel/heat gauge. Note the fuel/heat gauge rubs off much easier so i mostly used the rag on that one. Once your happy with the gauges put it all back together by using this guide in reverse.

Note: once you have put the cluster back together plug in your cluster and check all the leds are working before you screw it back in, if they arnt just turn the bulb holder or the bulb 180 degrees as leds are polarised.


Step 4 Hazard and Rear demister conversion

Grab the little lights out of the switches, The demister has 2 bulbs(The bottem one illuinates the demister picture and the top one lights up when the button is pressed) and the Hazard has 1 bulb that illuminates the Hazard Picture.
Remove the old bulbs by bending the wire straight and pulling the bulb out.
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/...IMAG0542-1.jpg

Now grab your led and jam it into the holder, then wrap the Negative leg(shorter leg) around where the old bulb wire went. Note i sanded my leds with a bit of 800 grit to diffuse the light and make them slot in the bulb holders.
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/...IMAG0544-1.jpg

Now get your resistior and wire one end on the positive leg(longer leg) of the led and wrap the other end round the bulb holder so you have a circut.
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/...IMAG0550-1.jpg


Now solder it and cut any excess wire then your ready to put them back in.
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/...IMAG0558-1.jpg

Note: once your done plug in your switches check all the leds are working before you clip them back in, if they arnt just turn the modified bulb holder 180 degrees as leds are polarised.


Finished!
Now if you have followed all the steps properly you will end up with something like this. Dont mind the factory headunit it will be replaced by somthing a bit nicer shortly and ill be working on the amber clock to get it white too.

Before:Sorry for the dodgy pic my phone camera doesnt like taking pics in the dark, looked more amber than this in person.

http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMAG0518.jpg

After:
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/...IMAG0802-1.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/...IMAG0581-1.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMAG0806.jpg

Ive got it set up so everything its white except the hazard and demistors are red leds and the AC and vent buttons are blue, but you can have any colour once you remove the amber backing from the gauges if your unfortunate enough to have it.

If there are any questions or if i have missed anything let me know and ill sort it out.

Great DIY

+1 Rep

What size led's did you use to change the ac buttons?

Also what lights do u change in the A/C unit to get rid of the orange? ive already tried to take off the orange globe cover and it is still orange.

I used 3 mm leds behind the buttons and there was plenty of room so you could probably use 5 mm if you wanted.

There are two T5 Bulbs at the back of the Ac unit which i changed to white leds, if you just took the covers off your bulbs, the stock Incandescent bulbs will still emit a yellow/orange light rather than a white light.

Also does the demister and hazard buttons have 2 lights, 1 wedge type and 1 under the button?

Thanks

The demistor has two 3mm leds each with a resistor(one so the button lights up white and a red one so the little section lights up when its on) and the hazard has one 3 mm led with a resistor, i used a red led but i think i might change it to white.

Thanks alot

Another question where did you purchase the T5 and T10 leds? link?

Cheers

I got mine from http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...Fled_prods.htm

I used a bunch of these T5'shttp://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...2F74-xHP3.html even used one in the t10 slot just by bending the contacts in the bulb holder.

I had to modify some of the T5's to get rid of hot spots(bright patch). Pic below.
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMAG0793.jpg
I just used a hot glue gun to put a drop of glue on the top then placed a small cutout of foil and paper on the top to reflect and disperse the light going forward.

Good DIY mate, +1 rep goes to you. Very informative.

Thanks for the Rep points guys much appriciated. If anyone has any questions about the guide feel free to ask away and ill edit the guide with more detail.

Im pulling the EK's Digital Clock out this arvo to try and change the colour/brightness so if all goes well ill chuck up another DIY for that in the next day or 2.

Brilliant write up and wonderful news that you are doing the clock and writing it up because maybe then I can replace mine.
All I want to do is remove the facia to replace the globes in the demister switch and replace the broken clock but am having trouble removing the facia.
I levered off the switch like you explain but only the button came off, the switch is still attached and no access to the screws you talk about and although I was running out of light cannot see how to remove the switch.
So a detailed explanation of how to remove the facia to replace clock and globes would be brilliant

Any chance you can pm me a pic?

The yellow arrows in the pic point to where you lever the switch out from, once it pops out you wil have to undo the connector at the back of the switch then the switch will come out and reval the screw behind it.


Ive edited the guide with more detail and added a video i hope that helps.
http://youtu.be/lSZJvkGE3r4

I didnt realise you levered the panel out thought you levered the switch/knob which only took the knob off, that video has taken it from confusion to me slapping myself for being an idiot, thanks a lot for going to all that trouble, it's really appreciated and will be tackling this on Saturday and later might try the LED conversion

No worries always glad to help, thought id chuck some videos up as im not to good at describing things lol, sorry for the dodgy recording on some of them, but i was using my camera phone with one hand and removing the dash with the other so can be a bit shaky and point at random things at times lol.

If you have anymore questions feel free to ask as if helps me edit the guide better for future DIY'ers.

Almost there but struggling to get the green connector off that plugs into the heater part.
Are there any lugs to depress or is it a straight pull?
Once that's off the facia will come off and I can get the clock changed then look at why there's no light on the demister switch.
One more question as I dont know Honda cars at all, but does the cig lighter usually light up with the dash lights?

Bit of an update and still got problems but they're different.
Couldn't unplug the green connector but did manage to get my big hand inside with a screwdriver and unscrew the clock and connected the replacement and found out there was nothing wrong with the original as the replacement behaves the same.
It only lights up when the lights are on and only displays when the ignition is on, if you turn the ignition off and back on again the time defaults to 1:00, so you have to reset the clock every time you start it up, my limited knowledge tells me it's wired to the ignition hence no power when it's turned off.
Took a chance and phoned the previous owner who said she remembers it working fine till she went to kmart and got an after market radio fitted.
They told her the clock wouldn't work due to compatibilty problems and she didnt question or demand they do the job properly.
Anyone any idea what they might have done (if it's a shonky install) or what can be done to fix this?
Having doubts now that the demister bulbs are blown , seems coincidental it has 2 blown bulbs when I have this appartent wiring problem, and those little bulbs aren't cheap

I'm at work on my mobile so ill be quick.

There is a lug to depress on the bottem of the connector, it might be a bit hard the first time as it has probably been there for 14 years or so.

My EK1 doesn't have a cig lighter light so id assume they dont.

Your clock problem is a bit off topic from my DIY so ill pm you after work so we dont fill up the DIY with unrelated posts, also recommend making a new thread outlining your problem too see if anyone can help in the meantime.

My apologies for going off topic, maybe one of the mods could delete the posts and tidy the DIY up?

Pm sent. No need to delete the posts i think, most have been relevant questions on how to take the dash apart and have helped me update the guide but your clock issue is not really relavant and may take a few messages to work out so were probably better off taking that to a new thread or Pm so we dont clutter up this one.

Step 5 Automatic gear indicator
This is for autos only, if you want to change the colour of the indicator from standard you need to acetone the coloured panel off the indicator panel, ive put a pic below of the piece im talking about.
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/...IMAG0826-1.jpg

Once you have removed that get the acetone and cafefully remove the coloured square.
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMAG0833.jpg
Repeat for all the squares you want to change

Now if you have acetoned the back of your fuel/heat gauge you will end up wil some light leakage so i just used some cut electrical tape to tape the outline of the indicator to stop light getting through, i also hot glued some foil and paper in the cluster(pic 1) to reflect the cluster light back down and away from the selector but this may not be nessicary just thought it would help.
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMAG0794.jpg


Grab your 3mm leds and resistors out, ive marked out the positive sides. Now pull the old bulb holders off the board, bend the bulb wire straight and remove the old bulb.
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/...IMAG0836-3.jpg

Now you need to put the negetive leg(short leg) down one side and wrap it round like the old bulb so it will make a connection then get the positive leg and pierce it through the side of the bulb holder then wire it to one side of the resistor and wrap the other side of the resistior were the stock wire goes, solder them all and put it back together.
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/...IMAG0783-1.jpg

Ill have pics up tomorrow of some different colours for the indicator, only just finished and its a bit late to be going out to the car, will wake up the house lol.

http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/...strys/gear.jpg

hey quick question yea, on the back of the cluster, theres like 2 T5 on the top and one on the middle, what size the rest (not including indicator and other stuff like engine light..."cause i even tried T10, doesn't fit in LOL

Quote:

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Originally Posted by baoanh

hey quick question yea, on the back of the cluster, theres like 2 T5 on the top and one on the middle, what size the rest (not including indicator and other stuff like engine light..."cause i even tried T10, doesn't fit in LOL

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I updated the pic, i used T5 bulbs in the cluster. There are 5 sockets for the cluster backlight, four T5 and one T10 marked in the pic below.
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/...AG0528-2-1.jpg

Great job,good effort!!

^^ Thanks mate i hope it helps :) My first DIY post so im still learning how to do them lol.

Hey mate do you have to take off the whole climate control to change the bulbs for the backlight?
Im just planning to make the lights amber.
Cheers.

I havent tried myself but i dont see why you wouldnt be able to do it without removing the climate control. You would have to remove the lower panel thats in my hand to see the bottem of the climate control.
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/...AG0491-1-1.jpg
Then if you can see where the bulbs are located in this pic of the bottem of the climate control then you just have to try get your hands or some pliers in there while its still in the dash to get the bulb holder out.
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/...IMAG0506-1.jpg

Okay. Thanks heaps :)

No worries mate i hope it helps :)

Just changed all my bulbs and noticed the demister and hazard backlights dont work?

But the the hazard and demister work.

Know what i wouldve done wrong?

Nevermind, figured it out, it was the bulbs. Do you know where i can buy the demister backlight globe and hazard globe?
Or have any idea what they are? T2's?

Thanks in advance :)

if you want you can just reuse your bulb holder and put a 3mm led with a resistor in there like in the pic below.
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/...IMAG0542-1.jpg
Ill check what bulbs they are tomorrow for you, i didnt take note of what they were so ill have to pull one out and check it.

I want to make all of them the same brightness. Yeah okay let me know. Thanks heaps. This thread was really useful!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JDM EM1

I want to make all of them the same brightness. Yeah okay let me know. Thanks heaps. This thread was really useful!

---

You can make them all the same brightness by using a 3mm led you just need to use a lower resistance resistor if you want it brighter or if its too bright then sand the led to diffuse the light or use a higher rated resistor.

I didnt have much time this morning so i only quickly checked the bulb out for you but i dont know if ive found the proper name for it sorry, ill have another look later after i get back but it seems to be called a Neo wedge type A(T3) from what i can tell, If you take yours down with you to repco, supercheap, autobahn etc im sure they can help you.

Heres a diagram of the measurments,
http://autolumination.com/images/aut..._a_dims_wm.jpg


heres some example links.

About a third of they way down the page there is neowedge bulbs
http://autolumination.com/74.htm

Heres a link from the site i buy my leds from
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...pecs%2FNEO.htm

Thanks heaps mate :)

No worries mate hope it helps:thumbsup:, If you want to try using 3mm leds instead of the stock replacement bulbs im happy to help you work out which leds and resistors to get, You can also get away without soldering the connection if you dont have a soldering iron but its always better to use one if you have one.

HEY TBM,
which LED did you use on Cluster?
On my cluster, I only can see LED colour without bright

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wtfalfred

HEY TBM,
which LED did you use on Cluster?
On my cluster, I only can see LED colour without bright

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Sorry i dont understand what your asking mate, the type of leds i used are listed on the first post of the first page.

Hey TbM! Digging up and older DIY, I know, but I just replaced my CXi cluster with a GLi one (Thanks for finding me one ;P).

When I put it back in the dash, I found that the needles no longer light up & I can't adjust the brightness of the cluster with the dial. The brightness adjust doesn't bother me, but the needles not lighting up does. After reading this DIY I found that I probably just put the needle bulbs back in the wrong way.

Anyway, here's my point: I'm gonna pull the cluster back out & fix it up, but I figured I might aswell change the bulbs at the same time. Do you know exactly which bulbs light up which part of the cluster? From what I understand, the top two T5's (on top of the cluster) light up the needles. What do the other 4 T5s & the one T10 light up?

I'd just like to know, because im planning on making the gauge faces blue & the needles red. I'd also like to confirm if the top two bulbs light up the needles, because those were the only two bulbs I removed when switching my cluster, and the only thing not lighting up are the needles (do the math..).

Edit: Also, there's a pair of wires connecting the T10 and one of the top T5's, does this wire ned to be removed & resoldered onto the new bulb? Or, when you replace the bulbs, do you simply unscrew the old bulbs from the existing housing and screw in the new one? If it's the latter then the answer would be no, you dont need to resolder the wires.

Cheers mate.

Yes the two t5 bulbs at the top light up the needles, pic below

http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/...IMAG0526-1.jpg


The four t5 and one t10 bulbs light up the gauges in the cluster,

http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/...AG0528-2-1.jpg

If you want to make your gauges blue make sure you dont have the amber filter thats on some ek clusters or you will have to follow the acetone part of the DIY, IIRC some EU clusters dont have it so you may be in luck.

No, at the end of the wire there is a t5 bulb holder, you simply twist the bulb holder to remove from cluster then pull the old bulb out(bulb doesnt twist), repeat in reverse with new bulb and your sweet, no need for soldering.

Hope that helps
Regards,
http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...3784d58838.gif

one of the best DIY's.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bludger

one of the best DIY's.

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Thanks block.

fantastic information here

great coverage with the pictures of each of the steps as well

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lilthug

fantastic information here

great coverage with the pictures of each of the steps as well

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Thanks block, wish i could of included more pics but there is a limit on the ammount of pics you can have in 1 post :(

did you tried to DIY EK clock ??
I can't wait to see it !!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wtfalfred

did you tried to DIY EK clock ??
I can't wait to see it !!

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what do you want to mod on the clock?

the color !!
Orange to red... is it possible ?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wtfalfred

the color !!
Orange to red... is it possible ?

---

use filters.

here is DIY.

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...ht=clock+amber

Naice one bau

Red cellophane, thin transparent red acrylic or transparent red paint are things you could use to change the clock to red, ive got mine green at the moment as it fits in with my old eclipse headunit.

Hey mate,

I recently did my cluster. Had to follow the acetone part, wasn't too hard, just required a little patience.

However, I was wondering, did you use the wedge LEDs that emit 360 degrees? I initiialy used the basic T5 LEDs and it leaves very bright & very dark spots.

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/attachm...6&d=1338709007

Gonna stop being a tight arse & grab some 360 LEDs to fix this is up properly if that's what you used, cause yours looks perfect.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TbM

Naice one bau

Red cellophane, thin transparent red acrylic or transparent red paint are things you could use to change the clock to red, ive got mine green at the moment as it fits in with my old eclipse headunit.

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@.@
Any pic?
wanna see what the finish look like!

@ TranceZiggy

yeh i used 360 degree leds but i also blocked off the top led with aluminium foil so it refects the light from the top led back down which elimnated the hot spots in mine, its dependant on the type of leds and the colour used as to weather you need to modify the leds which is why i didnt go over it too much in the diy.
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...=1#post3023986

that link has the led's i used and the way i modified them, you can ignore that bit of paper on the right hand side of the cluster, i had to do that cause mines an auto and i was getting light leakage on the P R N D4 ect sections.

The basic idea is to stop the leds from directly lighting the back of the gauges but instead you want them to shine into the cluster housing and light up the gauges with reflected light rather that direct light if that makes sense.

it also looks as tho you missed the one between the speedo and the fuel.





@ wtfalfred

Pics of?
the cluster and dash pics are at the end of the first post, ive uploaded a quick one of the clock if thats what you wanted, excuse the dodgy photo.
http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...0432-1-1-1.jpg

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TbM

@ TranceZiggy

yeh i used 360 degree leds but i also blocked off the top led with aluminium foil so it refects the light from the top led back down which elimnated the hot spots in mine, its dependant on the type of leds and the colour used as to weather you need to modify the leds which is why i didnt go over it too much in the diy.
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...=1#post3023986

that link has the led's i used and the way i modified them, you can ignore that bit of paper on the right hand side of the cluster, i had to do that cause mines an auto and i was getting light leakage on the P R N D4 ect sections.

The basic idea is to stop the leds from directly lighting the back of the gauges but instead you want them to shine into the cluster housing and light up the gauges with reflected light rather that direct light if that makes sense.

it also looks as tho you missed the one between the speedo and the fuel.





@ wtfalfred

Pics of?
the cluster and dash pics are at the end of the first post, ive uploaded a quick one of the clock if thats what you wanted, excuse the dodgy photo.
http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...0432-1-1-1.jpg

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looks very nice
How do you make the clock looks like that? you painted it?
paint it from inside or out side? i pretty sure the plastic cover of the clock is Orange color. how do you paint it to blue or green ?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wtfalfred

looks very nice
How do you make the clock looks like that? you painted it?
paint it from inside or out side? i pretty sure the plastic cover of the clock is Orange color. how do you paint it to blue or green ?

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did you read this DIY Bludger posted earlier?

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...ht=clock+amber

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TbM

Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor Ozhonda take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!


Aim: To get rid of the dated amber dash lights and replace with leds

Required:
Screwdrivers
Soldering iron
Acetone
Rags
Cotton tips
Resistors 1/2 watt usually 470R-680R (depending on your led choice, Google Led resistor calculator if you dont know how to work it out)
T10, T5 and 3mm Leds

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I lol'ed

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wtfalfred

looks very nice
How do you make the clock looks like that? you painted it?
paint it from inside or out side? i pretty sure the plastic cover of the clock is Orange color. how do you paint it to blue or green ?

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I just removed the front cover as the clock itself is green, you could use blue/green cellophane, thin transparent blue/green acrylic or transparent blue/green paint to try and get green as iirc yellow and blue = green, to get the clock blue would be a bit harder, You would have to run the clock without the cover or cut a new one fron blue or clear acrylic as the yellow cover prevents you from having blue, reds the easiest to do as yellow to red isnt much of a change.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ericl33

I lol'ed

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Lol reminds me of oxer stories.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TbM

I just removed the front cover as the clock itself is green, you could use blue/green cellophane, thin transparent blue/green acrylic or transparent blue/green paint to try and get green as iirc yellow and blue = green, to get the clock blue would be a bit harder, You would have to run the clock without the cover or cut a new one fron blue or clear acrylic as the yellow cover prevents you from having blue, reds the easiest to do as yellow to red isnt much of a change.
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Oh, i tho the clock itself is orange. Now I know what to do.
It kinda hard to change green to red. Green+Red = Orange !? lol
Green+? = Red ?

red, green and blue are primary colours so you won't be able to make them

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Originally Posted by wtfalfred

Oh, i tho the clock itself is orange. Now I know what to do.
It kinda hard to change green to red. Green+Red = Orange !? lol
Green+? = Red ?

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the clock lens/cover is yellow or orange what ever colour you call it, but the actual display is green, when it goes through the lens it changes the colour to the yellow/amber which is stock, if you add a red tint inbetween then cover and the display it should make the numbers red.

Ive been looking into retrofitting something like this when i put in a new headunit to allow me to have a white clock as the rest of the dash is white and the new hu im looking at has a white display too.
http://www.electronics-lab.com/blog/...2/wit7segm.jpg

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Originally Posted by curtis265

red, green and blue are primary colours so you won't be able to make them

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yellow and blue make green

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fyndtVLVxV...ealistic-l.png

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TbM

yellow and blue make green

IMG]http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fyndtVLVxVU/T4JOcmqNzHI/AAAAAAAAAAY/yMaWd8yXsH0/s1600/misc-true-story-realistic-l.png[/IMG]

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that's true with paints, but with lights, pure red and pure green make yellow

so blue and yellow makes white or grey

depending on the quantities of each

i don't even know anymore

Quote:

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Originally Posted by curtis265

that's true with paints, but with lights, pure red and pure green make yellow

so blue and yellow makes white or grey

depending on the quantities of each


i don't even know anymore

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Im going to paint it with this: Attachment 22172

Quote:

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Originally Posted by curtis265

that's true with paints, but with lights, pure red and pure green make yellow

so blue and yellow makes white or grey

depending on the quantities of each

i don't even know anymore

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yeh its a bit confusing, with normal lights if you put a blue and yellow filter you still get green unless they are those absorbing/subtractive filters, im not sure about them

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wtfalfred

Im going to paint it with this: Attachment 22172

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with a paint brush or an airbrush?

This mod works better on a Polo