EK auto to manual conversion - finished!
Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor Ozhonda take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!
So i noticed alot of these threads come up asking about auto to manual conversions etc. And i know how much it annoys everyone that tells them to search etc. So i figured since i just did one, i may as well list my resources and give extra advice.
http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1337459
http://www.hondacivicforum.com/forum...ad.php?t=65008
Now, the first link explains most of the work and parts required. He did miss a few parts that i'll list as it comes to mind.
The second link is for converting an auto ecu to manual to clear the CEL and stop it spitting codes for the slush box solenoids. This is just something i found in my searches though it didn't apply to my particular conversion as i did an EJ8 with a d16y8 which uses a P2P ecu which can't be converted as far as research has shown. Not saying it's impossible, just that i haven't found a way (as with most obd11 ecu's).
Total time worked is roughly 8 hours with decent tools and equipment.
Parts required for EK/EJ conversion (may differ with EG etc).
Gearbox
manual starter + bolts as 1 or both are longer than the auto one.
Shift linkage
flywheel + clutch (note: there are different types of d16 flywheels... i found out when i bought a clutch to suit a y8 and found it didn't fit a y4 wheel. different clutch cover bolt and pin distances).
brake pedal
clutch pedal and bracket
clutch master, slave clinders, and clutch hard and flex lines.
Clutch line brackets (optional) that sit on the firewall
grearbox to engine alloy bracket
flywheel cover plate
ECU (can be modded using second link, or if obd11, just replace with manual ecu)
manual cluster (optional)
1 bottle of Honda brake fluid (for clutch)
2x 1L bottle of Honda manual trans fluid (for d16, unsure about others)
As for mounts, the first link says you need the rear gearbox mount, but it's exactly the same with auto and manuals. So the mounts you'll need are:
gearbox top bracket. you can use old nuts from auto bracket, but you'll need a new bolt as manual has an extra bolt hole.
gearbox front bracket + 3 bolts as auto bolts are too short.
The first link pretty much takes you step by step for most of the way, though they miss a few small details which shouldn't be a problem if you have decent equipment.
I did my conversion leaving the engine in the bay (next time i'll probably pull it out).
Main tools required:
engine crane + straps to support the engine while the mounts are off etc
trolley jack (or scissor, but they suck)
car stands.... decent ones, and even then don't trust them. I pop my wheels under the car just in case while i'm under it.
A good set of sockets, ratchets, spanners, pliers, screwdrivers etc
I don't think pictures are required due to there being plenty in the first link, but if anyone gets stuck anywhere, i'd be happy to take some and share.
Total cost was around $600 not including gearbox as i had one already. Does include a brand new heavy duty exedy clutch though. And i had to get various things like speed sensor and reverse switch cause they were missing off my box. Luckily i live minutes from Honbits and Craig was very helpful.
