Cheap moditifications to go faster? D16Y8 EK1 Civic

I have a big hillclimb race in 3 weeks time, so far I have done to my civic-
Front and rear upper strut braces
16'' Wheels with used road tyres
proper racing oil and decent oil filter (green hamp filter)
pod filter (only used for racing as it is a little warn)
Taken part or half of the exhuast off

When i get my money back, I am getting-
set of Koni Sports struts (maybe if i have enough- and Ground Control coilovers)
new spark plugs and 6 or 7 core racing leads

What else can help me can go faster at the top of the hill?

Brakes and rotors are good, clutch is still good (i wont buy a lighten flywheel until the clutch is close to dead), hand break still good (due to a hairpin at the top hehehe! :D), I am not allowed to take more than 50% i believe of the interior off due to class regualtions (I am in 0cc-2000cc road regsitable).

I maybe taking it a bit too far but my memo is Life is short, RACE HARD!

get a ASR + REAR ek9 swaybar.

best mod you can do buck bang for buck

after market rear sway bar, some good linkages and bushers.

maybe some headers? decent ones around 400-500

I have a brand new ek beaks bar if your interested


---
I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=-34.113785,150.802257

What road tyres are you using? I would recommend a set of Toyo R1R or Advan AD08 before putting sway bars etc otherwise you will not be maximising your suspension upgrades

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by stndrd

What road tyres are you using? I would recommend a set of Toyo R1R or Advan AD08 before putting sway bars etc otherwise you will not be maximising your suspension upgrades

---

Those tyres semis ? I need some tyres good for road and here an there track days ..

They are street semi's. If you are looking at a performance street tyres, I would recommend Toyo T1 Sport or Dunlop SP Sport

short ram intake with cold air supply,fuel pressure reg adjust ur timming to benefit your torque range and a proper wheel alighnment cheepest bang for buck mods try running smaller wheels as it will benefit ur final drive allowing you to put ur power down quicker

Change your fuel filter.
Put in a fresh set of spark plugs. Just regular NGK ones will do, should be about 8 bucks a plug.
Change leads, dont worry about "6 or 7 core racing leads". Just regular NGK or Champion, or Topgun leads will do fine. Its not a 1500hp drag motor.
Run 100 octane, plus an octane booster.
Remove rear seats.
If the pod filter is just mounted where the airbox would go, get rid of it. Its just gonna suck up hot air. Get some plastic 3" pipe and run it from the throttle body down all the way to behind the front bar/infront of the front wheel. Either run the pod filter there, or dont run one at all, just stretch a stocking over it so that it doesnt suck up leaves etc.
Bleed the brakes, make sure your pedal feel is good.
Get a wheel alignment.

Most of this general maintenance stuff will help out a bit, as well as making sure you dont blow it up.

As for actual mods, how much money have you got to play with, because "cheap" can mean different things to different people.

Cheapie old road tyres i use around town- Roadstone. Currently saving up for yokohamas because their tyres are better than toyos (dont agrue cause i has proof!) haha! Swaybars and bushes are in the future at the moment.
I wont bothered to buy headers cause I am saving up for a vtec engine, meaning I rather spend money doing up all the suspenison and breaks first before power, or if i have piss weak breaks and get more power, shit will happen. and more power, less suspenison means i will be going around corners like kids race on need for speed, hit the wall and keep using the wall to turn.

But i might as well get a stocking over it and check it after every run incase. I cant remove the rear seats due to class regulations. But cheers for this guys haha. I am hoping a vtec next year or two. Trying to save up for a k20. I might as well do it proper since i am gonna save up money for a little while haha

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by CTR-80Y

I have a brand new ek beaks bar if your interested


---
I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=-34.113785,150.802257

---

Alright, cheers, i just get in my car and drive 2000kms now and i see you tomorrow morning just to see it.
You didint look where my location is didint you? haha

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Adamjoeldavis

Swaybars and bushes are in the future at the moment.

---

What Bennjamin has suggested is probably the best thing to do as long as you get new/decent tyres as said above. EK9 RSB was the best mod I ever did to my ek1 for sure. And tyres are just a given, but there is no point upgrading suspension when your running on old rubber that can't handle it

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Oz_Striker

What Bennjamin has suggested is probably the best thing to do as long as you get new/decent tyres as said above. EK9 RSB was the best mod I ever did to my ek1 for sure. And tyres are just a given, but there is no point upgrading suspension when your running on old rubber that can't handle it

---

dont forget a full front and rear alignment once everythings installed :)

take a 19 and breaker bar and tighten up your subframe i find so many loose stops ur alighnment settings shifting

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Adamjoeldavis

Currently saving up for yokohamas because their tyres are better than toyos (dont agrue cause i has proof!) haha!

---

would you like to share?

a supercharger where you place it inside your intake piping

haha cheers for this guys, i am on a budget, thats why i have shit tyres. But in the future will include front and rear swaybars since its a CXi Ek1, Subframe/ ASR, bushes, heaps of suspenison bits, then I move onto the breaks then the engine.

My proof which may not be big but i have seen it. At Mallala Raceway (near Adelaide) my dads mate races historics in his XU1 Torana gtr (full on group N i believe) and he always uses Toyos, then one day he was short on money and decided to buy second hand Yokohama tyres that were used from the Clipsal 500, and in that day, he made a whole second from them in his first round, second round he made another .3 so basically he made 1.3 seconds with Yokohamas instead if Toyos. Nothing was improved, all he did was the tyres and thats it. It maybe a softer compound than the Toyos but Yokohamas can last as much as toyos or longer, no less unless drifting and burnouts.

R888 vs A048/A050 is a no brainer. Yes the Yokohama is a faster tyre but for bang for buck, the R888 is hard to go past. Same scenario when it comes to street tyres. Toyo comes out as best bang for buck option.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Adamjoeldavis

haha cheers for this guys, i am on a budget, thats why i have shit tyres. But in the future will include front and rear swaybars since its a CXi Ek1, Subframe/ ASR, bushes, heaps of suspenison bits, then I move onto the breaks then the engine.

---

this is annoying me, makes me think you mean the company "breaks", when i think you mean BRAKES right?

Cheap modification to go faster D16Y8?

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_08uKdANlyu...m-1280x960.jpg

Lame interior trimming optional...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by GU357

this is annoying me, makes me think you mean the company "breaks", when i think you mean BRAKES right?

---

Bloody hell autocorrect. haha yes I did mean Brakes! unless it breaks, then its breaks.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by DreadAngel

Cheap modification to go faster D16Y8?

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_08uKdANlyu...m-1280x960.jpg

Lame interior trimming optional...

---

OHHHH!!!!! I have Nos Bottles pillows at home, they could work :P

take a dump and loose some weight

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Adamjoeldavis

Currently saving up for yokohamas because their tyres are better than toyos (dont agrue cause i has proof!) haha!

---

Bit of a bold statement.. Depends what you're comparing. I used to run 205 Toyo R1R's for a long time and compared to a friend who ran AD08's at the track our grip levels with very similar setups were very much on par. I then upgraded to 205 R888's and later on went on to 225 AO48 (Mediums) and grip level remained almost identical between those semi's even though I stepped up in size.

For a bang for your buck performance street tyre, R1R is one of the best from my personal experience, but since you have proof you should go spend double n get the Advans.

i heard the A048 we get in australia uses hard compound.
so you dont get as much grip.

how many sec do you lose on the track switching from R1R to R888?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Tegzieboi_BAR

Bit of a bold statement.. Depends what you're comparing. I used to run 205 Toyo R1R's for a long time and compared to a friend who ran AD08's at the track our grip levels with very similar setups were very much on par. I then upgraded to 205 R888's and later on went on to 225 AO48 (Mediums) and grip level remained almost identical between those semi's even though I stepped up in size.

For a bang for your buck performance street tyre, R1R is one of the best from my personal experience, but since you have proof you should go spend double n get the Advans.

---

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Adamjoeldavis

My proof which may not be big but i have seen it. At Mallala Raceway (near Adelaide) my dads mate races historics in his XU1 Torana gtr (full on group N i believe) and he always uses Toyos, then one day he was short on money and decided to buy second hand Yokohama tyres that were used from the Clipsal 500, and in that day, he made a whole second from them in his first round, second round he made another .3 so basically he made 1.3 seconds with Yokohamas instead if Toyos. Nothing was improved, all he did was the tyres and thats it. It maybe a softer compound than the Toyos but Yokohamas can last as much as toyos or longer, no less unless drifting and burnouts.

---

I can't take this seriously. How is this proof? Tyres wear, age, harden, which is obviously going to contribute to the lack of grip. If you went out on the same day in the exact same car under the same track temperatures with 2 brand new sets of tyres, then that would be comparable. A mate of mine went from Toyo's to AO48's (which is what they use in historics btw) and consistently slowed by 2-3 seconds at Mallala. Im not saying that one of these tyres is better than the other but there's a lot of aspects that need to be considered when comparing tyres. Just cos you seen someone do faster times on one set than the other does not necessarily make those tyres better.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by connorling

how many sec do you lose on the track switching from R1R to R888?

---

My 15's are Medium compound. I believe 17's (and maybe 18's?) only came in Hard. My setup was constantly changing so hard to compare but I'd say around Mallala the R888's are worth 2-3 seconds over the R1R's.

thats a good gain hey. consider the cost of R888 isnt that much more than R1R, well at least in perth, because have to order R888 online.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Tegzieboi_BAR

My 15's are Medium compound. I believe 17's (and maybe 18's?) only came in Hard. My setup was constantly changing so hard to compare but I'd say around Mallala the R888's are worth 2-3 seconds over the R1R's.

---

Yea definitely.. They are about $30 more expensive but definitely a lot grippier. Not a street tyre tho, very loud n useless in the wet.

Tyres. Honestly somebody may go faster on tyres with less grip simply because they prefer the feel or the way they handle.

So many factors. I have R1R and they're great but the treadwear rating is just 140. If you have the money go for it but for a daily driver I think T1R's are a better option if you can still find them, or even the Yokohama S Drive. KU31 for tighter budgets.


Grippest set of street tyres I have ever felt was the Hankook Ventus RS2. Maybe try the RS3.