B18C LSD gearbox - Vent on top of box?

Just a quick question; I just got my engine back after getting a new final drive fitted (3.4FD since you ask, & no that's not a typo) & since I haven't put it back in the car yet, I have enough room to notice a vent on top of the gearbox, & I can see a large cog inside. The vent is four vertical slits about 30mm high. I haven't noticed it before.

My question, which is hopefully specific enough not to be too nooby, is;
Should this be covered to prevent crap getting into the box? & if so, how?
I'll be contacting the mechanics tomorrow, but can anyone give me a quick answer so I can get some sleep tonight! :(

there should be a rubber cap i think. theres a small hole on the rubber cap for air vent but quite small so dirt dont go in

oh hang on, nah theres nothing there lol. thats just how it is.

vent for clutch. i thought its the transmission gears vent.

OK, thanks. That's a big relief! :)
I've had the engine in & out numerous times, but never noticed it before. When it's in, there's no room to see.
I was scared that the brand new box might have been damaged since it only went in 6 months ago. The FD wasn't available at the time unfortunately.
Thanks again. Much appreciated! :)

3.4 ? TOO low. I just got a 4.05 in the other day :0)

Btw the side vents are normal.

Please share source of 3.4:1 FD - never heard of it but would make a great 4 speed drag box with small diameter slicks if you had the torque.

Not too low for me. :) Tyres are 175-45-13's
Once the engine is back in, I'll be able to use first gear again, & not have to change into 5th at 60km/h
Unfortunately it also means I will be lacking in torque, so the current tune of 85kw without VTEC will irritate me, & I'll have to connect VTEC & get a decent tune done. Still, 85kw is better than the 45 Hp I had before....... Even with only around 800kg to drag about the place.
Been talking to someone up here with a good Honda, & apparently I should send a file south & get the tune emailed back. I have an AEM - EMS 8860 computer. It's overkill for now, but "meh" *shrug*.

BTW Thanks, for the vent advice - That's 2 mods with the same answer, so I'm not sure I should even bother ringing the mechanic! :)

Edit - @ chez - Watson Rally in the UK was my source. Which incidentally is also where I got the conversion kit for the beast. It cost me 380 pounds, but that was last year, so the price may have changed etc. Order time was..... ages......

Slug I'm running 10's and 200hp - yet to complete but it should be fine.
What mini weighs 800kgs ?

OK, I haven't actually put it over the weighbridge, so I'm guessing really.
Take a Leyland with the conversion kit (Metro frame & hubs), add twin tanks, slightly heavier engine, extra bracing to fit aftermarket buckets + the seats themselves, 20kg of soundproofing, a few kg for stereo, & 70kg for me. Oh, & it's a Mini "Sunshine", so the factory sun-roof adds a little bit more, with the bracing etc.
I'm about to add more weight in the form of 1mm flat plate under the engine bay to blank it off, along with side skirts which project 80mm out from the sides, then flat horozontally back to the floor pan. I recently got a 1400mm GT wing, which will be cut down to 1m, & I'll make side plates to attach it beside the rear window. 1mm plate welded to 10mm diam pipe bent into shape around the edge, so it will still be street legal. Yes, I could have used aluminium for most of that, but the steel adds bracing, & also acts as protection for the engine.
In a while I will get the exhaust re-done, to raise it closer to the boot floor, then I'll blank off under the boot too. With some venting of course, & the whole exhaust will be wrapped.
BTW, did you know a Morris Minor sun-shade fits on the front of a Leyland as a retro air-dam? >:P That will also blank back to the plate under the engine. It's completely removable without having to change anything else, so it's relatively easy to unbolt. Useless until I get the rest of the blanking done though.