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Ok, I've started to notice an increased frequency of B20VTEC chatter lately on here. I remember back in the day when it was looked down upon (read: overheating issues, etc), oh how the times have changed :cool:
Anyway, I'm sure there is alot of people out there with queries about this setup, so here is the thread designed for questions and theory -an up to date one anyway!
There is many of us on here who can provide you with the answers you're looking for.
I've been watching b20 turbo vids on youtube.Man,Sick!
The torque is incredible!
Nice one its about time this thread started.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chr1s
lets talk about the myth of the unreliable rod stroke ratioss??
why do people bash the B20B/B18B on their 1.54:1 ratio while the K24 which shares the same ratio, no one brings it up..
Fair enough if you have a track car you wont want something way off the ideal 1.75:1.. But the B18C and the H22A share a ratio of 1.58:1 surely honda knew what they were doing when they made the rod/stroke of these engines which are regularly used in their type-R range (DC2R,Euro-R,Prelude-S) Which are supposed to be out of the box track/road cars.
also i love it when some1 mentions b20vtec they auto think the block wont handle the vtec.. ok fair enough b20 wasn't built vtec but with quality parts it will be as reliable as normal type r conversions
PLUS its cheaper to do from a b16a to type r conversion plus the extra 200c of torque goodness!!!
The biggest problem was there where alot built in Aus that where just plain garbage they made no power and where not reliable at all.When you look at Tinkerbells build it really showed what can be done with a basic build and dont listen to all the internet crap.
Just to vouch for Tinkerbell's quality - the first B20VTEC he built (2002) is still going hard to this day =)
I'm sure he will see this thread soon..
can we leave this to people interested in B20 conversions.....
not spam from past and present B20 owners , or builders plugging services ? lol.
Ok i hear alot of chatter about block guarding.. i think it will be good 50 dollar security.. whos done it? why should/shouldent you do it? will it realy disrupt coolant flow?
i want to push 11.5:1 - 12:1 compression in my b20 build on stock sleeves. obviously aftermarket rods / pistons / headstuds with new bearings / oil pump / water pump and probably neptune. Any advice for this future b20vtec warrior?
Alot of people bash things for no reason Sam as you probbaly know by now, I personally feel on a block with bores less than 90mm there is not much of a greater issue with rod ratio's, I'd still like to run something over 1.6 as anything lower shows increased awareness with longevity when applied to certain circumstances, etc. I find there is greater torque to be produced with a closer-to-ideal R/S ratioQuote:
Originally Posted by GSi_PSi
The main issue with B series, especially the B20, is the blocks. They are not very rigid and the castings are never as accurate as most b16/b18 units. Throw some decent enough power into them and the block will flex. Sleeving and block girdles are options, but there is a massive influence on WHO does the machining, if they are out ever so slightly, the motor won't last.
I havn't had experiance as of yet with guarding mainly for the reason that I don't like it's impedance on coolant flow. It's abit of a "what to do?" situation as we know the block is fairly weak compared to other honda castings, if I was you, decide on the guard and take it to a machinist, have him rework the gaps for the coolant to flow and enlarge them, leaving more room for coolant to flow than cylinder wall to block metal surface area, as long as there is a uniform tension on the sleeve, the lack of metal will have no effect. Then have the machinist install it in the block and get the bores done. Don't pull it out of the block later.Quote:
Ok i hear alot of chatter about block guarding.. i think it will be good 50 dollar security.. whos done it? why should/shouldent you do it? will it realy disrupt coolant flow?
i want to push 11.5:1 - 12:1 compression in my b20 build on stock sleeves. obviously aftermarket rods / pistons / headstuds with new bearings / oil pump / water pump and probably neptune. Any advice for this future b20vtec warrior?
11.5-12 is a good CR, I would stick to cast style pistons for your build, there is no need for forgies. Unless your planning for something later.
It's all in the assembly :thumbsup:
Block guards are a complete waste of time and do more damage than good they put pressure on the sleeves thats not needed the B20 sleeves are not that weak it was just poor tuning and bad combination of parts that led to engine failures,12 to 1 is fine on STD sleeves but in a car driven on the street 95% of its life 11 to 1 will make more than enough power (11 to 1 comp BYP B20 150+KW unported head) tuning of the setups is the most IMPORTANT part of the package with good bolt-ons to support the engine.Quote:
Originally Posted by RandyRhydah
Guys we are talking B series Vtec Honda heads here and they have good airflow and compression is not the total answer to making a solid engine with good reliableblity.
Quote:
Originally Posted by GSi_PSi
...because the k24 has rods developed designed and proven alot more recent in time. AFAIK these will out last and outperform the b20b/b18bs rods anyday.
But this isnt about that. This thread is about b20s and the whole VTEC build/conversion for all the inquiring people out there.
To ask a question , what is the minimum work to get a PR3 headset on a b20 block ? What cost is this ? What power is this ?