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Mine makes a firm noise (like a bolt slip) everytime I turn.



I checked mine under the car but the reinforcing plate covers the joint, so it's still a mystery until I totally remove the bar...

Oh great...
Is anyone here with a DC2or DC4 had any problems? (other than ginganggooly)

I'm getting some creaking sounds from the back, and I'm getting real suspicious.

getting a brake fluid replacement made the softness feel go worse. Replacing or getting it reconditioned is a good idea.

1. Squaking/rattling all around... it scares the passengers
2. Irritating to get in/out
3. FF = understeer

You have to know that Honda has placed the air filter inside the airbox for a reason. It could be to meet manufacturer's requirements for a vehicle. Or it could be because you lose torque at the...

mine's got an alarm flashing led light on it

It could be a JDM version integra. A few of them had a B16A in it. Heck, some even had a D series in it.

YOu have to do something silly to slip it out during mid corner. It just means you need to be a better driver. I could slip out the rear even when I had the 14mm bar.

I've got adjustable 22mm here...

wlee2, you may have one your control arms not firmly connected (and probably damaged) to the door's frame. This happened to me a while back, and I put in a huge screw next to the joint and havn't had...

You've obviously parked too close to the wheel stoppers at a shopping centre.

You can screw them up, but be aware the ones you buy from Hardwarehouse won't fit.

is your dash rattling like crazy?

Yup as kousoku has mentioned, it was a good reputable seller in ebay. A few OH members purchased it from there.
For mine it was the OEM spec exedy replacement because I do a lot of city driving and...

Bought a Exedy Clutch Kit + Exedy ~4kg lightened fly from US.

Costed me around $580 delivered to Australia.

Not bad for a 'stock' EK. 1.20 at Wakefield is pretty darn good :thumbsup:

That's exactly my setup except on an integra + tie bar. It's a perfect blend of driver comfort and performance.

Get a whiteline bar with heavy duty mounts. Won't break your subframe.

They are probably the swaybar endlinks. They are probably dry and running no lubrication.

I know this because when I took my sway bar off, the endlinks were squeaking when I move them.

Stock bar is 14mm for a DC2.



Yeah that 22mm bar will make your car handle like a different animal

Swaybars will eliminate the car body roll during turns, not assisting in chassis flex. I installed a whiteline rear 22mm and it got rid of around 70% of the tilting.

Driving a DC2 with the rear...

wow 103kw's and it will do 8.6seconds!

The diesel one has torque of a WRX!

Not bad for a SOHC...
might give the B18A/B18B a run for its money

Yes that lower control arm bolt is realatively easy to take off. Putting it back on is just a royal pain. You need to get the untappered 12cm bolt through the LCA's and through the subframe.

And...

you can try calling up places and get some quotes:
AVO Turboworld
Croydon Racing developments
Online performance

Are you talking about eBay sway bars from US?

I recommend Whiteline sway bars, Aussie company with top quality stuff. I don't know if anyone here in OH has any other brand of sway bars.

1. Save up extra dough
2. Sell the car
3. Buy a VTEC equipped car

BTW LS/VTEC will cost more than $2200.

nice write up!

I'm always worried about removing the dash cluster because people might think you have fiddled with the oddometer when you sell your vehicle