From memory I just bent the brackets a little and never had an issue in the years since fitting it. The tie bar isn't meant to make a difference you can feel....
I've had both, my opinion is that if you push the tyres regularly then you'll get better wear from 595 EVOs as I found RE001s wear fast when pushed. RE001s are silent where 595 EVOs have some noise...
Federal 595 RSR is an excellent tyre for street or track, I have 595 EVO in 16inch currently which I'm thrilled with, I only use on street, the best tyre through my comparisons that I've had although...
ben is spot on. Do you have the option of using type r springs also? It's a good combo, but make sure the shocks you buy are in good condition and avoid high km examples. Mine have done approx...
^^^What he said^^^
plus, on track a small engine runs gear ratios to suit the high rpm power band, therefore not spending time at low rpm which would otherwise require the advantage that vtec...
I thought the twin loop was quiet, but I personally don't consider X Force to be good quality so I'd consider Mugen, or the Spoon Street muffler which I have on my stock 2" piping.
no drilling required, just mounts on two studs at suspension top, remove existing cable bracket, tuck wires under the stopper and secure them with cable ties.
Personally I'm not too keen on bridgestone these days, imo RE001 wear too quickly when pushed. I had Pirelli P6000 on an old car and thought they were rubbish, different to P6 possibly?
I have a ceramic clutch and get a squeak (which sounds just like a tyre squeal) on take off depending on how much slip I give the clutch before I let it grab, I also hear it on occasions in any gear...
lol that's exactly how I started, albeit Beaks subframe kit, then after a while swapped the springs for lower Spoon progressives. Do what you stated and you'll be happy with the compromise :thumbsup:
It's only smart to use similarly rated springs front and rear but more important to have good shocks to control the movement, I can't think why the previous owner did it but I'd at least change it.
basically the pipe which runs downward below the airbox is held in place by the intake resonator inside the guard pictured below. It can be removed via the splash guard or by removing the bumper.
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I'm trying to replicate it on Mum's laptop but the forum looks good, she runs explorer browser where I use chrome instead, will try on mine later when I get home.
Very well thought out review and well said, my thoughts exactly and it's refreshing to see a review so spot on and honest, Honda did a good job with these
OP, is this the kind of thing you're looking for?
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?73255-Stock-airbox-set-up&p=1310468&viewfull=1#post1310468
