For those that have helped me here and aren't aware of my other thread it's finished, thanks so much for all the help here, would of struggled more without it.
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I pulled out the VSS and pulled it apart by spinning off the platsic ring holding the sensor together, then removed the internal wheel that spins and checked it with a...
Just had a bit of a search and a refurbed ecu with a Hondata 300v3 is going to set me back about a grand by the look of it, the last brand new haltech sprint ecu I bought for less than that.
So if I...
It's definitely code 11, 1 long followed by one short.
Just lifted the cover off the ecu, has no hondata board and has not been socketed butchered at all so no idea where the 11 code is coming from,...
Been too fkn hot here to be in the shed much but still ticking off the jobs.
Continued paneling finishing the footwells all but the drivers outside piece, I'll leave that off until...
Had to throw the tunel top on and check out how the finished item will look with tadpole strip in place, and I don't mind saying for someone who's never done anything like this before I'm rapt with...
Covered internal panels with waterproof canvas, sills and tunel top are padded, the rest is not.
Going to be tough keeping it all clean during the rest of the build but I couldn't think of a better...
Managed to get enough ali to finish off the cabin thanks Andrew, my buddy from Tripod cars, everything else has come to a grinding halt until business start up again, friggin...
Front and rear calipers have been modded for uprights, drive shafts have been shortened and inlet manifold has had a angle shaved off its face, so it sits lower to clear the body, it's all very tight...
Sorting exhaust, you can see an early gearbox attempt there, ended up flogging the connection between gearbox and rod 'cause the angles were so screwed.
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So after 12 months of mocking up, fabbing stuff, faffing about, changing my mind, procrastinating, getting side tracked etc etc things are finally starting to move along less slowly, so time to start...
I've noticed with my gearbox moving the shifter from the neutral 3/4 gate across to the left, 1/2 gate I feel the normal spring pressure, but if I go to the right, into the 5/R gate there seems to be...
As I understand it the heads are same for the B16 and B18C7, what is the difference with the IM's?
Same studs, port shape and size, sensor and vac stuff?
What would be the advantage chopping one of...
No good unfortunately, the Blox IM is actually 1-1.5cm taller according to the helpful chaps at Shift Performance, I think I'll just get a wedge machined off the mounting face, not ideal but good...
I'm just starting to mock up the engine in the chassis and I can already see I'm just out of clearance between the top of the OEM ITR IM and the body, because of the way the IM curves up.
Wheels are going to be real issue, very tight under the guards apparently and nothing wider than 6' with bugger all offset will fit without flares, not really a flares/body kits/etc kind of guy...
