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To give you guys some more examples, i turbocharged my GF's D16Y8. 10psi of boost from a modded T28 (bigger turbines) stock internals. we produced 158kw to the wheels and she drove it for well over...

Thanks for the info guys, i'm really after OEM parts. I'll look around for an EJ front bar and the 99-00 rear bar.

Cheers.

ok, so the 99-00 rear bar is an exact fit?

I might have to ask on of our OZH imports to see if they can import the ek9 type-r front and rear bars :(

Hey guys, i'm wondering if any Aus delivered EK4 (96-98) Hatches come with front and rear bars that don't have the plastic mold protectors?

I'm looking for front and rear bars like the type-r ones...

D16Y's a good for bolt on turbo systems as their compression are fairly low at 9.8:1. My GF's civic was pulling 157wkw @10psi for 6 months before we took it apart to rebuild the engine.

They're of different depth, so you'll need it inorder for the EDFC to work... I'm sure Access performace (Wholesaler) should have them in stock.

I believe they're 4kg for 16" rims.

You don't adjust the firmness all the time, but if you want to adjust the rear shocks on an EK, you have to take out the rear seats or bend the rear moulding to get to the top of the suspension.......

If you have the cash the Tein Type-Flex is best with the EDFC, considering you want 50/50 track/street setup. Adjust the firmness incar with a press of a button. I have them in my EK and when i'm by...

Online's car is a custom built drag machine not used on the road... I'm sure that once 9krpm sorts out the little problems and gets in some more practice at the strip, he'll have one of the fastest...

B16A's should run 10psi stock without any problems.

My gf D16Y8 has been running 14psi stock, but had head lift problems. ARP bolts and got the block o-ring'ed and that fixed the problem. The car...

The SS is their lowest range, i don't think you get dampening control with them (correct me if i'm wrong). The Type-flex is more of a replacement of the HA's, and allows for the EDFC (electronic...

I wouldn't increase the red line too much over stock. With bigger cams, firmer springs and more rev's to handle, your stock timing belt will not last.

Yes, this is why you shouldn't ever post kill threads...

If your looking a new suspension, Tein's Type-flex are a good option. Firm, but soft enough not to get too annoyed about every single bump on the road. It's really up to you and what you can...

I'm sure they'll be a direct swap, but RA's are really only for Track use... Extremely stiff suspension.

OEM Type-R shocks are firmer then your stocks, but still very good for street.

it's the white one...

Hey that's my car there.... didn't even know i posted it here :p

The good panel shops will grab a painted part of your car (normally the fuel cover) and get it computer analysed. That way you'll get a perfect match... Ask what their process are....

most jobs...

GLi is a single core, while a VTi-R is a dual core...

Weq, i believe you have a very common D-Series problem when you move to boosted power... it's called head lifted...

Lot's of D-Series...

Do you get white smoke (steam like) out through the exhaust?
Tried flushing out your radiator?
Are you running radiator coolent?
Does your oil look milky?
When it overheats check and feel how...

looks like it's also bigger then previous models.

It's not the radiator, you better check your water pump as what Weq said. I've had give the GF my EK VTI-R radiator and been using a single core VTi radiator with no troubles at all...

Get some of those spongy stuff and put them between your door and trim... It should do the trick :)

Congrats :)

Did you do a dyno run before the tune?
Do you have the dyno sheet?