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get stiff coilovers, will help your handling alot.
What DC5 raven said, need to get the A spec rear duck spoiler to fit the DC5R rear wing as the A spec rear duck spoiler is smaller than the AUDM ones.
...
shocks wont , springs will.
1. Learn to shift properly
2. Warm your car up before you shift 'quickly' above 5000rpms.
3. change your gearbox oil to something better
4. Worn synchro's
5. New Gearbox.
Those $50 ebay strut bar kits prob dont jack all and are just for looks.
Try Jay car , they have re programmable remotes which gets teh signal of your original remote.
But I'd prob change the alarm in case the previous owner tries a shifty with your car by using...
Honda OEM Gearbox fluid... and Honda OEM coolant... from Honda dealer.
Noticed you got a front sway bar, did add that on? Cause I dont think EK sedans in aust came with front or rear sway bars.
Looks like a Pi sign rather than a H to me.
CTR as in EK9 then yes its a straight swap.
EP3 of FN2R or FD2R then no.
Its normal then if you have stiffer mounts, all the engine vibartion and movement is transferred through the chasis/cabin/steering wheel.
It particularly gets worse with the A/C on.
Are you running aftermarket engine mounts or an Engine torque damper or a solid 3 point strut bar?
What type of engine conversion?
EG hatch or sedan?
sedan yes hatch you will need to drill holes in the parcel shelf ( which i have for sale if interested )
you're a f0ckign noob, AUDM B18C7 has 4.7 FD LSD GB opposed to the EK9/B16B which is 4.4
And There is nothing wrong with the AUDM B18C7, there are too many things before limiting it in the AUDM...
so much fail in this thread..
Just thought I'd let you know its brake not break.
that is all.
JDM Climate control also lights up amber haha.
I've got the whole swap for sale if interested.
Thanks for updating us with this info which has been floating around the forums for the past 4-5 years.
If you have money you can modify anything to fit.