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  1. #13
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    Sydney - Cabramatta/Liver
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    Jazz EVO IX
    breeza, when i manage to finish mine i'll post some pics to make it up to ya
    Evo IX - THE FINAL EVOLUTION

  2. #14
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    Sep 2006
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    91 eg5 b16a
    No no,please keep it going!!

    This is what its all about,it's all related.

    What else we gonna talk about

  3. #15
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    Mar 2006
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    doorstop
    capacitor will just sit there laughing at the chaos erupting around it,u need a cheap easily replaceable fuse(once u fixed fault of course) to interupt said chaos before it gets out of hand.
    battery is capable of supplying a few hundred amps for reasonably sustained cranking of the motor,its capable of supplying a lot more than that for a shorttime fault condition.
    drop a spanner across the terminals & see the result lol.

    oem coils supply thousands of volts beez,dont know what the msd works at,but u really shouldnt touch anything to do with a modern day working ignition system.
    even leads & the cap,dont touch till motor off,there could be leak anywhere waiting to catch u out.
    luckily its just big voltage & not really enough sustained current to get u most times,but consider it only takes like 30mA to start messing with your heart,be careful.

    yes insulate that post where it meets the cap,uve tested how well it leaks now for yourself lol,u dont want leaking while trying to run a motor,not good for performance

  4. #16
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    Sep 2006
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    91 eg5 b16a
    Cheers,can I just use gasket sealant?

    What rating should the fuse be? I'm thinking to use an amp fuse,the one you always use on car systems.

  5. #17
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    Mar 2006
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    doorstop
    i dont know what the insulation resistance is on gasket goo,ring the manufacturer lol,but it obviously needs to be rated higher than whatever voltage the coil can supply.

    fuse needs to be high enough to supply the ignition system & low enough to protect the wiring.
    again,i dont know what the msd is rated at,my guess...in the order of 10-20A or so,check the instructions.
    again,i dont know what gauge wiring with what insulation your using,my guess.....looks about 30A wire.
    my guess=20A fuse
    just go down to jaycar or similar & u can get a 30A fuse holder & fuse for a few dollars.
    Last edited by CRXer; 09-09-2009 at 01:47 AM.

  6. #18
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    What would you use to insulate it cause I wanna do it right.I was thinking this morning about when I got zapped.I was touching the bottom of the tower,where it meets the cap.

    On the MSD caps this shouldn't happen right? but if you touch the top,the spark plug tip,that will zap you right?

    Cheers CRX'er,I will add the fuse and insulation then add it to the DIY!
    Last edited by beeza; 09-09-2009 at 11:02 AM.

  7. #19
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    Sep 2006
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    This is the blurb on the MSD-6AL box.I'm trying to understand the "Two Step Rev Control".The 2nd step is a rev limiter and the 1st step is a 'Holeshot rpm'.What's that?


    "MSD 6AL, PN 6420 The 6AL shares the same proven circuitry of the 6A with the addition of a built-in adjustable rev limiter. The combination of powerful sparks with the safety of a Soft Touch Rev Control is what makes the 6AL the most popular ignition control in the world. MSD first developed the Soft Touch rev control to prevent overrev damage to your motor in the event of a missed shift or driveline failure. The rpm limit is adjustable in 100 rpm increments with MSD’s plug-in modules. When the engine reaches your selected limit, the Soft Touch circuitry begins dropping the spark to various cylinders. On the next cycle, these plugs are fired again to prevent fuel from loading up in the cylinder. The result is a smooth and accurate limiting action without backfires or roughness. The Soft Touch Rev Control also opens the door for you to add rpm accessories such as a Two Step Rev Control. A Two Step allows you to set two rpm limits, one for a holeshot rpm and another for overrev protection. The 6AL is supplied with rubber shock mounts and modules for 3,000, 6,000, 7,000 and 8,000 rpm."

    And this is taken from another MSD install thread:

    "MSD is quite a company that far surpases their competition in the world of ignition systems. Proof of this can be seen in the MSD 6AL that you just installed. MSD offeres RPM Plug Kits for those wanting a bit more tuneability for their setup. I'd recomend, on a 3G, starting with the 6000 RPM plug once you hit the dyno for a tune session just so you can see where your power curve is. Once you find this out, lower/raise your RPM plug to that RPM and try again. Keep in mind that it's still not the best idea in the world to go over Redline on the Tachometer, but that's what these plugs are for. MSD offers a good wide range of these selector modules ranging anywhere from 3000 on up to and probably past 9000 RPM plugs in 100 RPM incrumentsm. These kits can be found online with Summit and other MSD suppliers."
    Last edited by beeza; 09-09-2009 at 11:00 AM.

  8. #20
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    Lots of question mate...

    What do U think about this,have you done it?

    "The best way to set timing IMO is to use a vaccum gauge on a vaccum line going to the intake manifold.Adjust the timing by turning the distributor untill you reach maximum vaccum and tighten it back down."

    I'm thinking about buying a vacumn guage and timing light and setting it via this meathod.I have always been wary my timing isn't positioned at it's best position and it's suffering for it.My mechanic told me it's fine but you know backyard mechanics...god love his Italian soul! But this looks like a great meathod for solving that problem.

    Oh btw my mate was reading the thread last night and when ya little ****roach appeared on the screen he was trying to blow and shoo it off the screen,he was concentrating on reading but every now and then have a go at it,this went on for 1 long minute until he was like 'Ohhhhh' and I was like 'AAHAHAHAHAAAAA' - Funniest thing eva!!!!
    Last edited by beeza; 09-09-2009 at 01:00 PM.

  9. #21
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    electricity is always willing to take the easiest way out beez,in other words it takes the path of least resistance.
    in the case of the resistance of your body compared to the resistance of the air gap across a spark plug tip,u guessed it,your body has least resistance,so electricity will favour the path thru your body when u present it the option over the spark gap.
    if u touch anywhere down line of the coil,u will receive the bulk of the current flow to ground. u also risk frying the coil from overcurrent if the leaks get substantial,ie lower resistance.

    "hole-shot" is just another term for launch control.
    if u get an additional msd control module to talk to the 6AL,u will be able to set a spark induced rev limit to have a set launch rev limit before u dump the clutch,not exactly useful on a standard auto tranny beez.
    the second step of the 2-step is just an overall spark induced motor rev limit,your motor already has a fuel induced one.so unless u want a lower overall rev limit,then also no use to u,unless u change the fuel limit with aftermarket ecu.
    some people prefer the popping & banging of a rough spark limiter.

  10. #22
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    lol,i did the same thing when someone else on another forum had the bug in their sig,it gets a lot of people,especially when around my place there are actual bugs that size that land on my screen & do the same shit.

    u need to match the mechanical timing with the timing your ecu expects to see.
    u already have a timing mark on your crank pulley(assuming it is stock & correct) to match up this timing.
    are u using proper procedure to set the timing,ie engine warm/all elec accessories off/short SCS connector/set timing with light?

  11. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by CRXer View Post
    electricity is always willing to take the easiest way out beez,in other words it takes the path of least resistance.
    in the case of the resistance of your body compared to the resistance of the air gap across a spark plug tip,u guessed it,your body has least resistance,so electricity will favour the path thru your body when u present it the option over the spark gap.
    if u touch anywhere down line of the coil,u will receive the bulk of the current flow to ground. u also risk frying the coil from overcurrent if the leaks get substantial,ie lower resistance.

    "hole-shot" is just another term for launch control.
    if u get an additional msd control module to talk to the 6AL,u will be able to set a spark induced rev limit to have a set launch rev limit before u dump the clutch,not exactly useful on a standard auto tranny beez.
    the second step of the 2-step is just an overall spark induced motor rev limit,your motor already has a fuel induced one.so unless u want a lower overall rev limit,then also no use to u,unless u change the fuel limit with aftermarket ecu.
    some people prefer the popping & banging of a rough spark limiter.
    Gotcha! Thank U!

    A had a feeling it meant launch control.

    Understood

    Quote Originally Posted by CRXer View Post
    lol,i did the same thing when someone else on another forum had the bug in their sig,it gets a lot of people,especially when around my place there are actual bugs that size that land on my screen & do the same shit.

    u need to match the mechanical timing with the timing your ecu expects to see.
    u already have a timing mark on your crank pulley(assuming it is stock & correct) to match up this timing.
    are u using proper procedure to set the timing,ie engine warm/all elec accessories off/short SCS connector/set timing with light?
    Ahahaha

    Yes,all except shorting the SCS connector,is that necessary?

  12. #24
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    copy/paste cos i hate typing lol

    yes,it is a good idea,as the ecu could be making random timing compensations to allow for temperature/elec load/etc.
    if its doing this & u set your mechanical timing to stock value than they might not match when u are done.
    ecu will be spitting out 28* timing to the motor & motor might be sparking the cylinders at 33* timing for example,because your dizzy is out of adjustment.

    jumping/shorting scs,removes any compensations the ecu might be making & holds its timing at stock value(lot of hondas are 16* BTDC stock timing,the wack Y4 i dont know what it is).
    if u then go & set your dizzy to match the 16* mark on the crank pulley with a timing light,then u can be sure that both ecu & motor agree on what timing is happening.

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