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  1. #25
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    Forsure forsure!

    Just 1 last thing Sir! and THANK U again!!

    What do U think about this,have you done it?

    "The best way to set timing IMO is to use a vaccum gauge on a vaccum line going to the intake manifold.Adjust the timing by turning the distributor untill you reach maximum vaccum and tighten it back down."

    I'm thinking about buying a vacumn guage and timing light and setting it via this meathod.I have always been wary my timing isn't positioned at it's best position and it's suffering for it.My mechanic told me it's fine but you know backyard mechanics...god love his Italian soul! But this looks like a great meathod for solving that problem.

  2. #26
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    never seen the vac gauge method,i suspect its more useful on carbi powered cars however,u have electronics to handle setting your timing correctly,much easier

  3. #27
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    But how do you know where the best spot is? It would just be guess work wouldn't it,you would just be setting it to stock settings plus an advancement of 2 degrees say,but how would you know that is the best spot?

    With the vacumn guage,it sounds like you could get it accurate this way.

  4. #28
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    do u really think honda employed much guess work when they were forking out the millions in cash to get your motor ready for production & spit out the best balance of economy/emissions/power/reliabilty it is capable of?

    hence the mark on your crank pulley & the sensors in the dizzy base feeding this timing value to the ecu so it can run the motor at optimium & agreeable timing.

    best timing is to know what the actual timing is & be able to fiddle it from that known base.so best to get the motor & ecu agreeing on whats going on first.

    if u want to fiddle advance for power,then u really need to get on a proper dyno,as the butt dyno will not give much if any indication on gradual increases in acceleration rates,butt dyno only detects big torque shifts,which fiddling a coupla degrees of ignition advance aint gonna produce.

  5. #29
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    also,living in australia,mostly at sea level & honda induction & exhaust systems being fairly efficient already from the factory,i doubt the vac gauge will be much use to u in finding any better timing values,due to any boltons u have made to the motor.
    maybe if your boltons have lost u a substantial amout of power,than maybe u could regain some with the vac gauge method.
    but this is all getting way above my feeble mind.
    lets stick to the elec things lol.

    unless u do actually live alone on a high mountain top somewhere beez,which i do suspect sometimes?

  6. #30
    That has got to be the smallest 47,000F capacitor in existence. Perhaps you mean 47mF or maybe even 4.7mF?

  7. #31
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    lol,i didnt notice that,prob just couldnt find the "µ" symbol on his kb,here u can borrow mine beez.

    geez once u finally got that 47,000F charged up u could leave your battery at home for the next week & just run the car off that lol,or am i forgetting how much your car would weigh carting it around....

  8. #32
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    Fuse and insulation added!

    Thanks so much CRXer (added ya to Thank you's!),sorry about all the posts yesterday...

    Quote Originally Posted by CRXer View Post
    do u really think honda employed much guess work when they were forking out the millions in cash to get your motor ready for production & spit out the best balance of economy/emissions/power/reliabilty it is capable of?
    But that's assuming stock timing is the best position...cause now I'm runnin' I/H/E MSD system and I believe stock timing (12 degrees BTDC for the y4) is not the best spot now.

    I need a meathod to find the best timing without a dyno.

  9. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by CRXer View Post
    unless u do actually live alone on a high mountain top somewhere beez,which i do suspect sometimes?
    Almost!

    There's a mountain above me Can ya see Da Batmobile?



    And your mind is a great mind!

    Quote Originally Posted by string View Post
    That has got to be the smallest 47,000F capacitor in existence. Perhaps you mean 47mF or maybe even 4.7mF?
    Thanks String,I will check and update

  10. #34
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    more importantly wheres the crop beez.....i know its there somewhere....send me a sample

    thats one fancy fuse u got there,extra marks for that,but deduct marks cos fuse is protect the wiring not the msd.
    good to see some sort of insulation of the post,if shit starts happening,look there first.

    gotta be careful with pq's beez,cant just go dishing them out at will
    when u get to the pearly gates,they actually ask u what your pq score was on OH,to determine your lifes worth....

  11. #35
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    HAha,your a funny man!

    But what do you mean by 'fuse is protect the wiring not the msd.'

    Why? Dammit!


    hehe Somewhere Jase,somewhere!

  12. #36
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    Very nice write up, rep for u
    Light up with Lyle - Electrical / Communications / Instrumentation

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