The drain bolt has a 3/8" square drive pattern on it. Look for that. To remove it, you use a 3/8" square drive ratchet. When changing ATF, the volume changed is 2.8L. So 3L should be enough to do it. To fill it back up, you do it through the auto transmission dipstick hole.
The drain bolt has a 3/8" square drive pattern on it. Look for that. To remove it, you use a 3/8" square drive ratchet. When changing ATF, the volume changed is 2.8L. So 3L should be enough to do it. To fill it back up, you do it through the auto transmission dipstick hole.
Thanks for that. I really needed it. hopefully this should solve my problems.
those drain plugs can be bloody tight as well. when I changed my Cu2 auto fluid the other week i had to use a 1/2" drive step down to 3/8" drive connector, to which I attached a 1/2" universal joint a 10" extension bar with a breaker bar attached to that. I have no idea why they are so bloody tight.
how do you even know something like that aaron. what tool to use and everything lol jesus !.
Because I've changed MTF/ATF before. Also, it is a Honda standard. My dad has a 94' auto and it has 3/8" on the drain plug, while my 04 manual also has the same 3/8" for the drain plug.
those drain plugs can be bloody tight as well. when I changed my Cu2 auto fluid the other week i had to use a 1/2" drive step down to 3/8" drive connector, to which I attached a 1/2" universal joint a 10" extension bar with a breaker bar attached to that. I have no idea why they are so bloody tight.
The assembly workers in Honda Japan/Thailand have strong arms.
I used a 3/8" ratchet and a rubber mallet. Even if it is tight, a few taps of the mallet loosens it easily because there is a crush washer. Remember to replace the crush washer, it is an aluminium 14mm piece.
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