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handbrake issue
how far up do u guys pull your handbrake? CU2 that is.
ever since i got it, i felt that i needed to pull about 45 degrees. which is pretty high and tight and the gear noise you hear is significantly loud. because otherwise the car moves and jolts forward or back a bit.
but then 6 months later my friend tells me that if i do that it wrecks the hand brake and i only need to pull it like 30 degrees or when i hear the first 2 or 3 clicks of the gear clicking sound. he drives a cu2 too. soon after when i got my flat tyre fixed (my dad sent it off so i wasnt there) our family friend who fixed it said that while under the car he noticed that some spring for the hand brake was pull wayyy too far back and its bad for the brake.
now since that time, ive noticed that even if i pull the hand brake back far, the car still jolts forward or backward a bit after i turn off the engine and release the foot brake pedal. Its like the hand brake has lost effectiveness
is this normal or have i wrecked it by pulling too far back and should i get it checked? would it be under honda warranty if i told them their handbrakes are dodgy? lol
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Adjusting the handbrake is part of the regular servicing schedule. Get your dealer to check it out. In the future, you only need 4-5 clicks for the handbrake as the transmission in "P" will help the handbrake stop the car from rolling when parked.
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=124241
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Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2
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5 clicks for me. I can't / don't want to get to 6 clicks.
Honda Accord Euro CU2 / Lexus IS-F
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Originally Posted by furythree
now since that time, ive noticed that even if i pull the hand brake back far, the car still jolts forward or backward a bit after i turn off the engine and release the foot brake pedal. Its like the hand brake has lost effectiveness
I've noticed this jolt too on my CL9. Does this indicate a handbrake problem?
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Originally Posted by aaronng
Adjusting the handbrake is part of the regular servicing schedule. Get your dealer to check it out. In the future, you only need 4-5 clicks for the handbrake as the transmission in "P" will help the handbrake stop the car from rolling when parked.
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=124241
ah ic thanks
ill ask them about it next time
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Originally Posted by aaronng
Adjusting the handbrake is part of the regular servicing schedule. Get your dealer to check it out. In the future, you only need 4-5 clicks for the handbrake as the transmission in "P" will help the handbrake stop the car from rolling when parked.
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=124241
aaronng, are you saying that the car shouldn't roll with 4-5 clicks? Without assistance from "P" or 1st/R gear?
I think I need to bring my car to the dealers because my car needs 6-7 clicks for it to stop rolling. Would there be any damage concerns for 6-7 clicks
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Originally Posted by chunsa
aaronng, are you saying that the car shouldn't roll with 4-5 clicks? Without assistance from "P" or 1st/R gear?
I think I need to bring my car to the dealers because my car needs 6-7 clicks for it to stop rolling. Would there be any damage concerns for 6-7 clicks
You must put it in P for auto and 1st/R for manual. If you are on perfectly flat road, of course you can leave it in neutral for a manual.
If you are able to use 6-7 clicks, then your handbrake cable is slightly stretched. On my CL9, I can pull it up 5 clicks using normal strength and if I use some muscle, up to 6 clicks.
The handbrake is meant to be adjusted at every service to accomodate that stretching. However, once you stretch it too much, you will need a new handbrake cable. That is why I use only about 5 clicks and leave the gearbox in 1st or R.
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Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2
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aaron,
This is interesting, as on a steepish slope today, I had to pull my lever up to 9-10 clicks before the car will hold while in N. I have adjusted the hand brake cable in the past so that the rear calipers "just" drags on the disc, and this resulted in 6-7 clicks normal, and 8-10 clicks on a slope.
I can try adjusting to fully hold with 5 clicks, but it will probably cause a fair bit of drag at the rear calipers when the handbrake is off.
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Originally Posted by chrome
aaron,
This is interesting, as on a steepish slope today, I had to pull my lever up to 9-10 clicks before the car will hold while in N. I have adjusted the hand brake cable in the past so that the rear calipers "just" drags on the disc, and this resulted in 6-7 clicks normal, and 8-10 clicks on a slope.
I can try adjusting to fully hold with 5 clicks, but it will probably cause a fair bit of drag at the rear calipers when the handbrake is off.
Also depends on the model of the car. Yours is the Accord V6, not the Accord Euro. So it might be different. How many clicks do you do until you feel resistance in the hand brake?
For the auto, you MUST put your transmission in P. If your car originally did only 6-7 clicks and you are using 9-10 clicks and N on a slope, you will eventually cause your handbrake cable to snap.
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Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2
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Yes, I always use P on the slopes, but what I do before going into P, is put into N, pull the handbrake till the car holds on the slope, and then put into P. This way, it minimizes the strain on the pawl in the transmission. It also mitigates the loud "thunk" when moving from P to R or D on a slope.
I feel resistance at around 6-7 clicks, that's what I usually put to on a flat surface. But on a slope, that alone will not hold the car. It needs another 2-3 clicks before the car holds.
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Originally Posted by chrome
Yes, I always use P on the slopes, but what I do before going into P, is put into N, pull the handbrake till the car holds on the slope, and then put into P. This way, it minimizes the strain on the pawl in the transmission. It also mitigates the loud "thunk" when moving from P to R or D on a slope.
I feel resistance at around 6-7 clicks, that's what I usually put to on a flat surface. But on a slope, that alone will not hold the car. It needs another 2-3 clicks before the car holds.
Why don't you just keep your foot on the brakes, pull the handbrake, put into P, then release foot brake?
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Originally Posted by unity
Why don't you just keep your foot on the brakes, pull the handbrake, put into P, then release foot brake?
Agreed, that's what I do with an auto.
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Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2
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