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  1. #13
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    Jul 2008
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    Queensland
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    EG Hatch
    Thanks for the info guys, im planning on keeping stock 84 bore and im yet to make up my mind if im going to assemble it myself or pay the extra dollars and get it done by an engine reco shop. it is a daily driver with circuit / sprints mainly in mind but would like to see what it does on the quarter aswell. Basemap is going to be done my myself and a small street tune while the engine is being run in, then will be off to the dyno for a full tune. It is a long term project im sure ill keep coming back to this thread for info / advice.

    cheers guys
    FIGJAM

  2. #14
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    Sep 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by bennjamin View Post
    To ask a question , what is the minimum work to get a PR3 headset on a b20 block ? What cost is this ? What power is this ?
    Minimum work:

    Tap/Block off oil feed hole in the head
    Remove copper block off plug near intake manifold/coolant jacket
    Install some sort of adapter to get the oil line to bolt in
    Oil Feed line from oil pressure switch or a sandwhich plate

    All of the above is contained in a VTEC conversion kit really.

    IMHO - fitting a b16 head straight onto the block is the simple way out, I will be doing these heads with changed geometry to suit a b20 motor better shortly. There is alot to be gained by working the head correctly.

    Power - hard to say, around 120kwATW. But this depends on ring seal, head condition, tune, day, whos dyno, bla bla.
    Last edited by Chr1s; 07-01-2010 at 08:54 AM.

  3. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by Chr1s View Post
    Minimum work:

    Tap/Block off oil feed hole in the head
    Remove copper block off plug near intake manifold/coolant jacket
    Install some sort of adapter to get the oil line to bolt in
    Oil Feed line from oil pressure switch or a sandwhich plate

    All of the above is contained in a VTEC conversion kit really.

    IMHO - fitting a b16 head straight onto the block is the simple way out, I will be doing these heads with changed geometry to suit a b20 motor better shortly. There is alot to be gained by working the head correctly.

    Power - hard to say, around 120kwATW. But this depends on ring seal, head condition, tune, day, whos dyno, bla bla.

    The question is not for myself but for the general populace for better understanding exactly WHAT is involved......as say compared to the usual B18c7 halfcut conversion package or b18c2 package.

    Chris you dont mind to sum up a power-price ratio package on average ?

    Remember guys n girls....when quoted X amont to build a b20 remember you also need running gear ontop

  4. #16
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    Jul 2008
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    Queensland
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    EG Hatch
    all adds up after a while.. sure you can pick up the block / pistons / rods and cams / springs / retainers.. then injectors / fuel pump / clutch etc starts adding $$$.. things i didnt think about untill about a month ago lol
    FIGJAM

  5. #17
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    Sep 2007
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    Sure Ben,

    I will do a fairly lengthy write up with pro/cons for both and typical builds from street to race. I think this should be a sticky soon.

  6. #18
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    Nov 2006
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    Civic EG Si Hatchi
    here is what Golden Eagle has to say about head gaskets. you can choose the OEM B20 gasket or GE Vtec head gasket. they cater for machined bores as well. on HT many people swear by OEM B20 gasket, while other despise the OEM B20 gasket.

    [h=Massive EG6/DC2 Part Out (majority brand new)
    http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...y-brand-new%29]2[/h]

  7. #19
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    Jan 2008
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    legtec @2psi
    Quote Originally Posted by bennjamin View Post
    ...because the k24 has rods developed designed and proven alot more recent in time. AFAIK these will out last and outperform the b20b/b18bs rods anyday.


    But this isnt about that. This thread is about b20s and the whole VTEC build/conversion for all the inquiring people out there.




    To ask a question , what is the minimum work to get a PR3 headset on a b20 block ? What cost is this ? What power is this ?
    Ben i dont think they are concerned about the actual rod, its about the stress or piston speed produced at the higher rpms, which the k24 will not be immune to


  8. #20
    From what i've seen around, a stock B18C Type R Conversion seems to hold it value better than a pieced together B20 - No matter how "good" the B20 is - somehow buying such engines always carry an inherent risk and most would rather build one themselves where they are abit more certain about the parts used.

    and I think this was also discussed before that a B20 conversion is only cost effective if you've already have a B Series VTEC engine, otherwise, you're still up for cost to purchase ancillary parts such as gearbox, intake manifold etc etc
    MFactory Competition Products

  9. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by e240 View Post
    From what i've seen around, a stock B18C Type R Conversion seems to hold it value better than a pieced together B20 - No matter how "good" the B20 is - somehow buying such engines always carry an inherent risk and most would rather build one themselves where they are abit more certain about the parts used.

    and I think this was also discussed before that a B20 conversion is only cost effective if you've already have a B Series VTEC engine, otherwise, you're still up for cost to purchase ancillary parts such as gearbox, intake manifold etc etc
    totally agree with ya

  10. #22
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    Sorry I disagree.

    A type R motor to me nowdays is overpriced for what it is, for a start they are second hand when most B20VTEC motors are rebuilt.

    There is a misconception of reliability because of the people who build them.

    You telling me now a 150kw B20vtec is going to "decide" to crack a sleeve after 200xxx km? lol.

  11. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by e240 View Post
    From what i've seen around, a stock B18C Type R Conversion seems to hold it value better than a pieced together B20 - No matter how "good" the B20 is - somehow buying such engines always carry an inherent risk and most would rather build one themselves where they are abit more certain about the parts used.

    and I think this was also discussed before that a B20 conversion is only cost effective if you've already have a B Series VTEC engine, otherwise, you're still up for cost to purchase ancillary parts such as gearbox, intake manifold etc etc
    Do you think this is because of the B20's bad name off blowing up or the fact that people just have to have a B18c.The rest I agree with you as far as having to buy everything if you dont already have a B Vtec setup.

  12. #24
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    legtec @2psi
    I didnt have a b Series engine, yet my setup was way cheaper than a B18CR and my stock setup makes 121kw atw,152tq.

    and also with the B20's blowing up, maybe in the states but down here ive herd of more factory motors blowing compared to frakensteins.


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