D16Y7 Intake Manifold + TB Swap

[ekcoupe]

Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor Ozhonda take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!

Aim:Remove/Replace Stock Manifold + Throttle Body

You Will Need:
-Intake Manifold (we used the y4)
-Throttle Body (y4 TB)
-Intake Manifold Gasket
-Gasket Remover
-5ft of 1/4" hose for fuel/vapor/coolant use
-2ft of 3/8" hose for same kind of stuff
-4l Coolant (will need to drain/replace)
-Tools
-a extra hand and a day off


sorry for the lack of pics but we werent to keen on taking them

This is what it looked like before


Step 1:
-Remove rear seat bottom cushion should be a bolt in between the cushion in the middle, then it should just pull out.
-Unscrew the metal cover and the disconnect the fuel pump
-Then start the car when it stalls out, turn it off, This is to relieve the fuel pressure.
-Disconnect the battery also remove the intake

Step 2:
-next you pull out the IAT sensor from the Y7 airbox
-remove the box & piping
-remove the little throttle cable brackets and detach the cable from the throttle body

Step 3:
-Remove the fuel injector plugs and mark them with masking tape 1-2-3-4
-loosen/remove the fuel hose bolt at the fuel rail inlet
-Take off the 2 nuts holding the fuel rail on
-Then carefully remove the fuel rail inlcluding fuel injectors

Step 4:
-At this point i would recommend to drain the coolant refer to wynode's thread
-Remove all the hoses from the intake manifold get some rags aswell
-To remove hoses use pliers to pull down the retaining clips down the hose a bit and pull the hose off (some hoses can be a bitch to get off)
-there will be some dripping of coolant thats why you will need the rags an try not to get any coolant into the injector holes

Step 5:
-Unbolt the intake manifold from the head there should be 7 bolts
-once all bolts are off it should just simply come straight off

y7 IM


y7 IM compared to the y4


Step 6:
-Remove the gasket this can take a long time and be a pain
-you can use the gasket remover but we didnt have that at the time so we used subaru upper engine cleaner
-now what you do is scrape the gasket off dont worry about breaking it.
-we used a chisel to get the bigger peices off and then we use the razor blade to get the rest off
-there cannot be any residue left has to be all metal and try not to dig into the metal or scrape it
-once thats off put the new IM gasket on make sure it fits.

Subaru Upper Engine cleaner


IM off




Step 7:
-Pull out the Y7 fuel injectors from your old manifold and put them into the y4 fuel rail (DO NOT USE Y4 FUEL INJECTORS YOU WILL RUN TO RICH)
-Bolt the new intake manifold onto your head, tighten it up good

Step 8:
-Reconnect the fat coolant line, run a new piece of 1/4" from the IACV to the small nipple that comes off the big one
-Cut the new coolant line coming from the pipe under the mani to proper length and connect it to the other IACV nipple

Step 9:
-Lightly oil the injector seals
-then with the injectors already in the rail, install the rail with injector connectors facing up
-Tighten it down, then connect the fuel supply line and tighten it up

Step 10:
-Use another length of 1/4" hose to run from your purge cannister to the purge solenoid on the rail
-then connect the other end of the PCS to the medium sized port under the larger one on the front of the manifold
-the upper one is for the PCV 3/8" hose.
-Now push the PCV down through the hole by the middle manifold nut, go underneath and connect it to the black box. Back up top, route the PCV hose to fit the port & cut to length.



Step 11:
-I think all the wiring will reconnect without modification except the PCS connector, you might have to lengthen it by 6-8"
-Reattach the tiny hose from regulator to the port right near the throttle body
-Connect the brake booster hose to the big port on back

Step 12:
-Plug the wiring back in, make sure you don't mix up the MAP & TPS, they are the same kind of connector we forgot to mark it an had it around the wrong way
-Install the cable into the throttle rotor
-Make sure there's no slack but that the rotor isn't open at all when not stepping on the gas

Step 13:
-After double checking to make sure everything is hooked up, and you have not crossed and coolant/vac lines, reconnect the battery cable and crank it over. It will take a few seconds to pressurize the fuel system again

Step 14:
-i strongly recommend to calibrate the tps refer to beezas thread

I think that is everything covered if only if we took more pics sorry about that.

and done we took it for a little spin an i couldnt have been more happy with the added performance


and what we were left with now i got my self some spare parts


hopefully i have help someone out, if you need any help either pm me or beeza

[redefine]

is this yours??

i thought the y7 didnt come on any australian delivered ek's it was only the y4, y5, or y8 (ej8) and none of them had that style IM

[ekcoupe]

is this yours??

i thought the y7 didnt come on any australian delivered ek's it was only the y4, y5, or y8 (ej8) and none of them had that style IM

yep this is mine i think it may be the only y7 in aus? never seen it before

[beeza]

Awesome mate!

[redefine]

yep this is mine i think it may be the only y7 in aus? never seen it before

oh wow. thats interesting.

does the vin plate say anything about where its from??

[ekcoupe]

oh wow. thats interesting.

does the vin plate say anything about where its from??

nah it dosent say where its from, its an ej6 thats from usa they got heaps of the y7's

cheers beez

[redefine]

ahhh nice.

yeah, IM isnt the only thing about the y7. im glad we got the y4

[ekcoupe]

ahhh nice.

yeah, IM isnt the only thing about the y7. im glad we got the y4

yes, even the headers were tiny i think it suppose to be like a gas saver

[beeza]

What else do U know about the y7 redefine,I was curious to know how the head flows,I mean since the IM and headers are so restricting,what's the head like?