Stock B20VTEC, danger inTorquing ARP ROD BOLTS and Revving to 8000rpm on stok block

[UN11QU]

Hey Guys just wondering are there any dangers of torqueing arp rod bolts to the stock rods?.
Would they crush the bearing? Or is it pretty straightfoward?
How many people have managed to do this without any issues?

and
How much risk is there revving to 8000rpm on a completely stock bottom end of a B20B8, not even arp rod bolts?

Thanks guys

[Samm928]

why you being a tightarse if your doing b20 ?

just buy the bolts!!!!!

[VTec1987]

do it once and do it right......

[OMG.JAI xD]

I dont think bearing crush is dependant on the bolt you use. The bolt it self only transfers clamping/holding force.

As long as the torque is right, youll have the same bearing crush with any bolt, if its the same pitch, width, depth, length etc.

You should always consult the manual though. Some bolts may have different tolerances and may differ in torque settings.

[Chr1s]

why you being a tightarse if your doing b20 ?

just buy the bolts!!!!!

Why is he being a tight ass? Care to clarify the NEED for ARP rod bolts? What's your experiance with standard rod bolts and installing ARP rod bolts without the correct procedure?

Don't tell me your getting your advice from another forum, please tell me it's educated and/or experimental advice.

I dont think bearing crush is dependant on the bolt you use. The bolt it self only transfers clamping/holding force.

As long as the torque is right, youll have the same bearing crush with any bolt, if its the same pitch, width, depth, length etc.

You should always consult the manual though. Some bolts may have different tolerances and may differ in torque settings.

Good theory but you contradict yourself here. The bolt transfers the clamping and holding force, true. Yet you should know that ARP bolts require more torque, what's this do to the caps? It's stressing them ever so slightly. Ever heard of the term "out of round" on the big ends?

OK lads,

We know from our primitive instinct that a circle is one of the strongest shapes known to us, we try compress a circle shape, and it resists if being supported well, otherwise it will bow out and become an elipse. Lets say you get your ring, the type you wear on your finger, you try squeeze it. What happens? **** nothing. You put it in a vice, what happens? It becomes elongated in the perpendicular direction of the force, in otherwords, an elipse out the sides of no load. If you were to support the ring while in the vice so that it can't move, and apply the force, what happens? It will try buckle, yes? We just proved that the shape failed and bowed out the sides, so why won't the ring deform in another way?

That is exactly what's happening when you install ARP rod bolts into a standard rod, maybe you get lucky and you won't need to close and hone the big ends, sure, plenty of people do it, but plenty of people don't service cars, sit on the limiter all day, don't warm their cars up, yadadyadad. Alot of other people will have another opinion on installing rod bolts too from their experiance, but it's not the right way to do things.

If you want to uprate the rod bolts, pull the rod out, torque it to spec and perform the required machining, if any.

[TODA AU]

If you want to uprate the rod bolts, pull the rod out, torque it to spec and perform the required machining, if any.

This is the correct way to do things. you may or may not need to close & hone the rods.
(The risk of change is low due to the similar torque specs)
But you should always double check your work.
If you don't, you won't know until thing go pear shaped later on which will likley be an expensive mistake.

FWIW, Close & hone of the rods is a basic machining (low cost) process that 99% of machine shops are well versed in.
So if you change the bolts, (it's been said before) do it once & do it right.

[Samm928]

Why is he being a tight ass? Care to clarify the NEED for ARP rod bolts? What's your experiance with standard rod bolts and installing ARP rod bolts without the correct procedure?

Don't tell me your getting your advice from another forum, please tell me it's educated and/or experimental advice.



Good theory but you contradict yourself here. The bolt transfers the clamping and holding force, true. Yet you should know that ARP bolts require more torque, what's this do to the caps? It's stressing them ever so slightly. Ever heard of the term "out of round" on the big ends?

OK lads,

We know from our primitive instinct that a circle is one of the strongest shapes known to us, we try compress a circle shape, and it resists if being supported well, otherwise it will bow out and become an elipse. Lets say you get your ring, the type you wear on your finger, you try squeeze it. What happens? **** nothing. You put it in a vice, what happens? It becomes elongated in the perpendicular direction of the force, in otherwords, an elipse out the sides of no load. If you were to support the ring while in the vice so that it can't move, and apply the force, what happens? It will try buckle, yes? We just proved that the shape failed and bowed out the sides, so why won't the ring deform in another way?

That is exactly what's happening when you install ARP rod bolts into a standard rod, maybe you get lucky and you won't need to close and hone the big ends, sure, plenty of people do it, but plenty of people don't service cars, sit on the limiter all day, don't warm their cars up, yadadyadad. Alot of other people will have another opinion on installing rod bolts too from their experiance, but it's not the right way to do things.

If you want to uprate the rod bolts, pull the rod out, torque it to spec and perform the required machining, if any.

relax yourself puppy.

"do it once, do it right"

[Chr1s]

relax yourself puppy.

"do it once, do it right"

Relax myself? In what way?

I asked you a question, don't be a politician and reply with another general statement or question. People want answers.

Can you explain to me how you stumbled across "do it once, do it right?" - you clearly have experiance in this field, especially when it comes to rod bolt selection and what type to use.

I'm seriously interested. If you don't know, or don't know how to explain it, just say so. Plenty of people on here are curious too. Even the OP.

[Chr1s]

Tried to PM you Sam

[GSi_PSi]

i dont think the engine will last long revving to 8000rpm on the stock D series rod bolts, which many many people have said they are the main weakness of the revability of the stock b20 bottom end.

[Samm928]

he may be revving to 8000. but depends on how constantly he does it.

oneor twice a day ok.

but at times with your usual 8000rpm rev especially with hondas. you want it to go harder than 8000.

i personally was thinking about doing b20 until i found alot of cooling issues with the b20.

[GSi_PSi]

with a proper breather system setup cooling should be fine

like sam said one small overrev like flatshifting , very very dangerous