[CL9] Is Fully Synthetic bad for an Euro?

[schonda]

I use Royal Purple for my euro, and someone claims it's overpriced and it can actuall damage my euro however I am not sure if his claims are for real:

"In a nutshell, Most full synthetics (especially Ester and polyalphaolefin based synthetics) are prone to damaging plastic components polyoxymethylene (ie your plastic intake and manifold).

Synthetics are also designed for high heat and high load applications, they arent designed for constant small run stop start cold conditions. Synthetics dont tend to suspend foreign particles very well either, much the reason why diesels (well high load diesels anyways) are still 70-80% mineral based oils.

A good quality semi synthetic such as HPR5 which contains a 25% stock base would be much better over the long run, and much cheaper as well since it can be had for 40ish per 5l, compared to RP which is closer to 100 per 5. "

[tony1234]

I use Royal Purple for my euro, and someone claims it's overpriced and it can actuall damage my euro however I am not sure if his claims are for real:

"In a nutshell, Most full synthetics (especially Ester and polyalphaolefin based synthetics) are prone to damaging plastic components polyoxymethylene (ie your plastic intake and manifold).

Synthetics are also designed for high heat and high load applications, they arent designed for constant small run stop start cold conditions. Synthetics dont tend to suspend foreign particles very well either, much the reason why diesels (well high load diesels anyways) are still 70-80% mineral based oils.

A good quality semi synthetic such as HPR5 which contains a 25% stock base would be much better over the long run, and much cheaper as well since it can be had for 40ish per 5l, compared to RP which is closer to 100 per 5. "

Doesn't sound right to me!Where did you get this from?

[aaronng]

I use Royal Purple for my euro, and someone claims it's overpriced and it can actuall damage my euro however I am not sure if his claims are for real:

"In a nutshell, Most full synthetics (especially Ester and polyalphaolefin based synthetics) are prone to damaging plastic components polyoxymethylene (ie your plastic intake and manifold).

Synthetics are also designed for high heat and high load applications, they arent designed for constant small run stop start cold conditions. Synthetics dont tend to suspend foreign particles very well either, much the reason why diesels (well high load diesels anyways) are still 70-80% mineral based oils.

A good quality semi synthetic such as HPR5 which contains a 25% stock base would be much better over the long run, and much cheaper as well since it can be had for 40ish per 5l, compared to RP which is closer to 100 per 5. "

I agree with Tony that it doesn't sound right. Also, the CL9 Euro's intake manifold is made of metal, so that issue is not relevant. Even if it is an issue, the plastic intake manifold is typically made from PA6 or PA66 polyamide thermoplastic, not polyoxymethyene, which is a low melting temperature acetal plastic!

Also, diesel oils don't tend to be mineral oils. There are many synthetic diesel engine oils out there, especially the ones used in diesel Audis and BMWs.

[schonda]

Thanks Tony and thanks Aarong for the thorough explanation. What a relief.

I owe all of you pics of my car ill get it detailed on Friday, also ill be doing my spark plug + oil + oil filter + air filter change then ill post some pics.

One thing I am worried about my euro though is that the car feels loose like it doesn't stick to the road well and the whole car just i dont feel confident in it anymore....steering wheel moves all over the place etc...

[rojak1]

try looking ball joint?

[schonda]

try looking ball joint?

Ok ill mention that to the mechanic to check, do you know how much it would cost to fix that if it were an issue?

I got told from various people that it might be the power hose pump leaking and thats the reason my steering wheel shakes constantly when accelerating and braking and over even the smallest bumps. I paid $120 for pedders to do an allignment so it's straight and the dude said "your brakes are sht, and your tires are very sht you need to change both immediately" (I have Dunlop at the back and Bridgestone TR300 at front) thread prob 1-2mm left...

When i told the mechanic the hose might have a hole in it the powersteering he just laughed and says unlikely but he'll check it for me.

[tony1234]

Ok ill mention that to the mechanic to check, do you know how much it would cost to fix that if it were an issue?

I got told from various people that it might be the power hose pump leaking and thats the reason my steering wheel shakes constantly when accelerating and braking and over even the smallest bumps. I paid $120 for pedders to do an allignment so it's straight and the dude said "your brakes are sht, and your tires are very sht you need to change both immediately" (I have Dunlop at the back and Bridgestone TR300 at front) thread prob 1-2mm left...

When i told the mechanic the hose might have a hole in it the powersteering he just laughed and says unlikely but he'll check it for me.

Replace the brake pads with some good aftermarket ones.Put some decent tyres on and THEN get a good 4 wheel alignment and all should be good.

[schonda]

oh ok - well that;s something ill have to save hard for..

[lf1234]

I'm not sure if I'm following...

I'm using: Castrol EDGE Sport 5W-30 for my CL9

Is that ok...? just want to confirm if i've been doing the right thing... cos i'm a bit confuse from this post..

thanks..

[integral90]

5W-30 is fine for the Euro. I'd only go to a thicker viscosity when the car's broken the +100,000km mark

[sodhi90]

I'd only go to a thicker viscosity when the car's broken the +100,000km mark

Ive been using EDGE 5W30 since 100,000 now at (3rd service with EDGE now) 126,000kms and have not had any noticeable oil consumption, and it runs great

[EUR003act]

I use Royal Purple for my euro, and someone claims it's overpriced and it can actuall damage my euro however I am not sure if his claims are for real:

"In a nutshell, Most full synthetics (especially Ester and polyalphaolefin based synthetics) are prone to damaging plastic components polyoxymethylene (ie your plastic intake and manifold).

Synthetics are also designed for high heat and high load applications, they arent designed for constant small run stop start cold conditions. Synthetics dont tend to suspend foreign particles very well either, much the reason why diesels (well high load diesels anyways) are still 70-80% mineral based oils.

A good quality semi synthetic such as HPR5 which contains a 25% stock base would be much better over the long run, and much cheaper as well since it can be had for 40ish per 5l, compared to RP which is closer to 100 per 5. "

dont know where this is from but sounds wrong... no oil will give perfect protection for small stop start driving... you should avoid that kinda driving if possible as it doesnt allow the oil to reach correct operating temperature to work at its best.

Ok ill mention that to the mechanic to check, do you know how much it would cost to fix that if it were an issue?

I got told from various people that it might be the power hose pump leaking and thats the reason my steering wheel shakes constantly when accelerating and braking and over even the smallest bumps. I paid $120 for pedders to do an allignment so it's straight and the dude said "your brakes are sht, and your tires are very sht you need to change both immediately" (I have Dunlop at the back and Bridgestone TR300 at front) thread prob 1-2mm left...

When i told the mechanic the hose might have a hole in it the powersteering he just laughed and says unlikely but he'll check it for me.

if the mechanic said your brakes are sh*t and tyres are sh*t.... then change your tyres and your brakes, warped rotors will cause vibration when braking, and possibly when accelerating....