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  1. #1
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    DA9-N/A DC2-S/C

    Lightbulb Destroked B20VTEC turbo (theoretically)

    was thinking the other day has anyone built a B20VTEC, with a P72 head, cam's with 296 intake DUR and 290 exhaust DUR using a B16 crank with B20 rod's?... lets say with 13 comp pistons @ 84.5mm diameter.

    i know the rods would be to short for the full 2 liter stroke and compression would be severely affected.

    But i was reading some article's on the relation between bore X stroke. and less stroke would enable the motor to rev more freely.

    so i thought considering the compression would be now less due to the rod ratio, and would have to use more boost to make more effective-compression. and be a dog of the mark! would this motor be safe to rev beyond the 10,000rpm mark?

    considering, theoretically it's a built motor

  2. #2
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    91 eg5 b16a
    Damn,big question straight up!

    Any takers?

  3. #3
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    Brisbane
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    Dc2 + EG
    Stroke isn't the only thing that limitates a car from reving you realise?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by lil_foy View Post
    Stroke isn't the only thing that limitates a car from reving you realise?
    yes, i understand this. but all thing's aside is this possible? or reliable for a daily driven, not garaged'n'hidden, weekend warrior.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Touge Tom View Post
    was thinking the other day has anyone built a B20VTEC, with a P72 head, cam's with 296 intake DUR and 290 exhaust DUR using a B16 crank with B20 rod's?... lets say with 13 comp pistons @ 84.5mm diameter.

    i know the rods would be to short for the full 2 liter stroke and compression would be severely affected.

    But i was reading some article's on the relation between bore X stroke. and less stroke would enable the motor to rev more freely.

    so i thought considering the compression would be now less due to the rod ratio, and would have to use more boost to make more effective-compression. and be a dog of the mark! would this motor be safe to rev beyond the 10,000rpm mark?

    considering, theoretically it's a built motor
    Answers are as follows:
    B20Vtec Yes... P72 Head Yes... 296/290 cams Yes...
    B16 crank & B20 rods, no... Use B16B crank & rods... (B16A rod is too short for block deck height with std installed heigh piston)
    Capacity would be 1736cc @ 84.5mm bore...

    Less stroke & long rods = top end power with coresponding losses down low.
    Less stroke & short rods = Good low end & midrange, but dead up top.

    Compression will be lower becasue you have reduced your swept volume.
    C/R = Swept volume / Clearance volume
    Rod rato has nothing to do with it.

    One a near zero deck is achived, the C/R is arrived at as usual. Select a piston with a suitable crown volume.
    Using more boost on a low compression slug, just makes the slug feel laggier.

    I can build a turbo engine that is safe to rev past 10,000rpm & will last more than 5 years on the road....
    Done it before plenty of times... not many others have though.
    Tip is as with any engine build that is going to perform as intended & last.
    Quality parts are needed together with quality machining, assembly etc...
    Best advice.... Think about how much you really want this thing & be honest with yourself casue if you're on a turd skinner's budget it usually ends in tears.
    Oh & I wouldn't be using a std B20 block as a start point.
    TODA Performance Australia Pty Ltd
    TODA Racing - FIGHTEX - MFactory - HALTECH - EXEDY
    Race engines, Dyno tuning, Licenced workshop, Parts.
    P:0401869524 email: toda@todaracing.com.au

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by TODA AU View Post
    Answers are as follows:
    B20Vtec Yes... P72 Head Yes... 296/290 cams Yes...
    B16 crank & B20 rods, no... Use B16B crank & rods... (B16A rod is too short for block deck height with std installed heigh piston)
    Capacity would be 1736cc @ 84.5mm bore...

    Less stroke & long rods = top end power with coresponding losses down low.
    Less stroke & short rods = Good low end & midrange, but dead up top.

    Compression will be lower becasue you have reduced your swept volume.
    C/R = Swept volume / Clearance volume
    Rod rato has nothing to do with it.

    One a near zero deck is achived, the C/R is arrived at as usual. Select a piston with a suitable crown volume.
    Using more boost on a low compression slug, just makes the slug feel laggier.

    I can build a turbo engine that is safe to rev past 10,000rpm & will last more than 5 years on the road....
    Done it before plenty of times... not many others have though.
    Tip is as with any engine build that is going to perform as intended & last.
    Quality parts are needed together with quality machining, assembly etc...
    Best advice.... Think about how much you really want this thing & be honest with yourself casue if you're on a turd skinner's budget it usually ends in tears.
    Oh & I wouldn't be using a std B20 block as a start point.
    exactly what i was going to say =D

    great response.
    guess i know what im doing when i win the lottery. (amongst other things too)
    WINTON PB - 1:48.9
    EG5 1.6L SOHC

  7. #7
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    Thanks fella's. It was just a thought to get others opinions on how it Would go. I'd rather all motor anyway.

  8. #8
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    Considering the swep volume, I guess it wouldn't make enough exhaust gas pressure to spool up the compressor for any disired effect. I should have thought of that.

  9. #9
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    "if you're on a turd skinner's budget it usually ends in tears."

    hehehehehe,nice one Adrian!

  10. #10
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    Melbourne
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    Civic EJ8
    ok, hypothetical question, given theres no budget, possible to build up any b-series to rev upto pass 12,000rpm an beyond the moon? or is this simply another mans dream?
    I <3 BOOST! D16+T SOHC

  11. #11
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    Jan 2008
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    Sydney
    Car:
    legtec @2psi
    Why dont you just sleeve the b20 and go for gold ?


  12. #12
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    Vaucluse NSW
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    EKB20 > EGB18C
    if you got money to play with.. darton sleeve from us.. forge internals tuning is a must tho

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